If the lights work properly according to the switch stalk position (hi/low) then just wire them the way they are.

JWest.
 

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they do

I just hooked up the relay like my wires were, seems to work fine.

Thanks to Draco for the advice, too (texted him in the meantime)

One thing I need to address still is that my ground area is getting too full. There's only one other black wire on there and of course another from the battery, but the screw is not threaded on 100%. It's on there tight, but it seems like you'd want that to be 100% on there. There's some sort of thick rubber thing taking up a lot of the space. Do I need that or can I trim some off of it to reduce its thickness?

Without a picture can only assume it would be a rubber spacer used to provide tension and dampening. If it comes off easily, you could reduce the length a little.

Ok, that's what I was thinking. I'll post some pics later today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331483901.jpg

On the left side, you can see the nut isn't 100% on.
Next item to the right is the ground for the relay just installed.
Then continuing right, there;'s the rubber spacer thing.
Right again is the ground to some other thing.
All the way on the right is the ground for the battery.

Do these relay kits ever wear out?, the reason I ask I noticed that the front turn signals work but they are not that bright they just seem to flash below average and the side marker also dims a little with signals on, the rear work fine.
I am running H4's with 90/100 Narva's

Regards
Barclay
________________
1981SC Coupe

I don't see these listed on this site for sale anymore. Does anyone know where I can buy this kit ? Thanks.

Pelican still list other products by J West; they said at one time they could supply any product made by one of their suppliers, regardless of whether it's in the Pelican catalog or not- e.g. Pelican don't list the WEVO 915 side-cover; but allowed me to order it through them and consolidate shipping etc. Worth a call?

Otherwise, you could likely buy it directly from J West Engineering?

According to his website this kit is not made for pre 74 models.

IIRC from long ago, there was never a kit offered for earlier models due to lack of demand and the variation on fusebox wiring/placement(s), preventing "one kit fits all".

If you can follow how they're installed/work, it probably wouldn't be very hard to adapt a relay kit to your particular car.

For that matter, it's not hard to source stuff like relays, bases, wire and/or ceramic H4 sockets. Although finding high quality component parts can be difficult - the cheap stuff on Ebay often isn't exactly top-shelf. (hint: Daniel Stern doesn't carry junk).

I bought one from Pelican in Jan.

Right here -

Pelican Parts - Product Information: JWST-911-HLPR

Jeff,
Your fuse panel may be similar to my 1969 T. I am using the JWest Relay Kit to power my H4 headlights. I JUST installed it last week.

Through other peoples posts, pictures and sleuthing I was able to piece together how to install the kit on my car. This took me a few nights to figure out so hopefully you (and others regardless of model year) can benefit. (the JWest Instructions are specific for 1974 or later car and do not illustrate how to add the relay kit to earlier models....which can be frustrating) Earlier, I incorrectly stated that the instructions were for a SWB which James @ JWest corrected me on.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...s885/photo.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...s885/photo.jpg
Caveat- I don;t know if you can wire relays backwards so I copied another Pelicans routing based on wire exit location on the bottom of the housing.

Note- Both relay modules have the same part number so I believe it does not matter what color pair (Yellow or White) you use for HI or LOW beam.

Actually, the JWest instructions are specific and specific to a '74 and later car, hence the catalog claim that they are for a '74 to '89 and not sold for use in the earlier cars.

Not sure why you are mad about the instructions being vague for a '69, they are not vague - they simply do not apply to pre-'74. They don't apply to SWB cars either.

Thanks for all the help !!

James,
My apologies, I don't know why I was thinking the instructions were specific to a SWB especially when the photos clearly show the fuse panel on the fender wall. I corrected my post and you are right, I can not expect your instructions to aid me in my DIY retrofit pre-1974.

I can also more clearly state the context of my statement. I was frustrated that it took me so long to do what I thought should have been a simple (and recommended) upgrade by many here on Pelican and here locally. In that frustration what I really wanted was a diagram illustrating the system flow so I could do my DIY install and power my H4 headlights safely and effectively.

FWIW, I made my own system for my 1973 with parts from Mr Stern and per this diagram:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1277686172.jpg

Low beams/high beams.........
 

I believe that the top white wire in fuse position #7 is the main power feed from the high/low switch for the high beams. The top yellow wire in fuse position #6 is the main power feed from the high/low switch for the low beams. The yellow and black wire attached to the top of fuse position #5 is likely the "trip" wire for the fog light relay which, from the factory only work when the low beams are on. The white wire coming from the top of fuse position #8 could be the wire feeding the high beam indicator light on the dash.

On the headlight relays, there should be:
1) +12v power lead from battery
2) ground wire
3) input signal from the high/low beam switch
4) output to headlights, either one wire connected to both headlight wires or two wires, one for each headlight.

On the fuse panels that I build with the headlight relay kit, I move the headlight wires completely off the fuse panel, allowing them to connect directly to the relays. I pull a wire from the bottom of fuse #6 & #7 to go to each relay to act as the relay trip wire
only. Here's a picture. The white wires (shown here on fuses #5 and #8 but can as easily go to #6 & #7) act as the relay trip wires, the blue wires pull +12v directly from the battery. The black ground wires connect directly to the chassis and the yellow and red wires go to the left and right headlight leads. My fuse panels have 3 extra fuse positions so the first 3 on the right are "extras". Once the headlight kit is installed, the 3rd fuse position is still vacant and fuse positions #5 and #8 become vacant for other uses.

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