Yet another "WON'T START" thread!

911 · 01-31-2002, 03:24 PM

Okay, all, here are the symptoms:

1) When I turn on the ignition it won't turn over (both lights on the tach are on).
2) I tried jumping the battery, but that didn't work (to my surprise).

History:

* The car has been running great and hasn't given any indication that there was a problem.

* I had the battery replaced about 15 months ago.

* I changed the alternator & regulator about 12 months ago.

Could this be the starter? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.

Rich

nhromyak · nhromyak's Garage

Do you have an alarm?

Starter kill?

Starter solenoid could be bad/coroded. Check the wiring on the starter. Both the big one and the little wires.

I THINK you can tap on the starter while trying to crank... not sure on this thoug. The theory, that the solenoid is sticking or the solenoids electrical contacts are burnt - tapping will loosen it or change where the solenoid electircal makes its contacts. I haven't taken a Porsche starter apart, so I am NOT SURE.

Could also be the ignition key - could be mechanical problem or an electrical problem.

First, check all fuses, and check battery connections (especially the smaller red ones next to the BIG FAT ONE) for any corrosion - expecially the grounds on battery and chassis. Check transmission ground.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_starter_diag/mult_starter_diag.htm

Good LUCK!

911 · 01-31-2002, 04:07 PM

Thanks, Nick, I will give those suggestions a try. Btw, I do not have an alarm nor a kill switch. Thanks, again.

makaio · 01-31-2002, 04:30 PM

Start with the connections like nick said. But just to let you know, my starter went just like that, overnight. Removing the starter to take down to your local auto parts store for testing is a 30minute to 1 hr job. Easy after your first time.

911 · 01-31-2002, 04:37 PM

Thanks a lot, Matt. Generally speaking, what is the cost of having this replaced?

stormcrow · stormcrow's Garage

While you're down under tapping the selenoid, disconnect the small wires from the selenoid and connect an ohm meter across those terminals on the selenoid. If you get a zero reading, then the selenoid is bad. If you get a resistance like 24 ohms or so (not sure what the ohm reading should be), then the selenoid is good. Also check to see if you are getting 12v to the selenoid.

What you have to listen for the selenoid engaging. To do this take the larger wire off the selenoid (the one from the battery) . Then, turn the starter switch to the start position, and listen if the selenoid engages. If it does, then reconnect then reconnect the large wire to the selenoid, you still have some troubleshooting to do.

With your meter at hand, set it to read volts. Hold one lead on the starter terminal which is on the starter motor itself (not the selenoid) and the other to a good ground. Have someone turn the engine to the start position. If you read 12v when the selenoid engages, but the starter does not turn, then the starter is the problem.

If the selenoid engages, and you do not read 12v on your meter from the terminal on the motor, then the selenoid is the problem even though it engages.

Rember always be safe when working uner your car.

Hope this info helps.

Steve

makaio · 01-31-2002, 04:45 PM

Well if you do the work a lot less. I think I paid $230 for a starter from Pelican, + $15 to ship my core to them. The hardest part of the job is the top barrel nut. I think 8mm allen head. I ended up making my own long reach 8mm allen head socket, so i could get to that PITA! The rest is very straight foward. If you take it to a shop, I'm guessing 1-2 hours labor. I imagine JW does them in 30 minutes.

So with shops mark up and 2 hours labor 400-$500.

I don't know your experience level or you comfort with working on your car, but this board can walk you through it.

911 · 01-31-2002, 06:09 PM

Steve, Nick & Matt,

Thanks for your advice. I'm not the most mechanically inclined person, but I may give it a go. I replaced my alternator last year and it wasn't too bad. Thanks, again.

Rich

Superman · 01-31-2002, 06:38 PM

If you can replace an alternator then you can replace a starter. The hardest part is the big allen fastener on the back (invisible) side of hte solenoid. I'm told they're easier to reach around the top of the tranny from the drivers' side, and the tool has to be the right length/depth. If you've got the right tool for this and a little patience, then this job is going to be easier than the alternator job.

But first, I'd check other stuff out. First, check your voltage. If it's in the low 12s or below, then that's a problem. It should be at least mid 12s. Should be 12.8 volts or thereabouts, ideally.

Charge the battery and clean all the connections. Then try it again. If this does not work, then I'd suspect the ignition switch. I'd verify that voltage is getting to the appropriate small lead at the solenoid when the key is turned to 'start.'

If the contacts are good (clean, shiny, tight) and the battery is charged and the small lead to the solenoid is getting voltage with the key turned to 'start' and if this does not run the starter, then remove the starter. At least part of it is bad. I take starters and alternators to my trusted local electrical motor repair place, R.E. Auto Electric in Tacoma. I'm picking up my alternator there tomorrow.