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j911brick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb View Post
some energetic person should summarize the several threads on this issue, and list the techniques in order of what to try first, etc. etc. down to last resort
Its not exactly that easy. The technique one uses will depend on the what and where the bolt is.

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Old 10-18-2012, 02:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
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well, edm is a definite last resort
Old 10-18-2012, 02:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
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You might want to try, Alden Industrial Series High-Speed Steel 3-Piece Pro Grabit Kit from Home Depot?

Industrial Series High-Speed Steel 3-Piece Pro Grabit Kit-8430P at The Home Depot
Old 10-18-2012, 06:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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Just to add to the suggested methods, i've had good luck with welding a "new" bolt to the funked one. I had a countersunk/flat head screw with allen-head wrenching (inhex) as a drain plug on a fancy 3.0L 911 Autospeed oil sump plate that was stripped and overtightened. So I welded the threaded end of a regular hex head screw to the stripped countersunk head. Worked like a charm and no drilling/cutting required.

Point being is that you can get fairly clear access to the shift housing and weld a new bolt on there pretty easy. If you don't have a welder, sorry. Sure you need to protect the interior from weld sparks. But you sorta need to do that if you're drilling.

If the head is not stripped out too bad and has enough meat to support an easy-out, I think the fluted extractor is the way to go. If you can't find one that fits the stripped hole tightly, make it fit. Meaning, you grind the head of the extractor on your bench grinder until it is a tight fit in the stripped head. You should have to tap/press it into the stripped hole a bit. It'll get a good bite and pull that screw out easily.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #44 (permalink)
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Welding the head also loosens the bolt as the current heats the threads. I have a 'porta-spot' that I use on small trim screws. Even really old Phillips head exterior trim screws usually come out by hand.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:14 AM
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I did the same thing on the small allen bolts that hold down the shifter assembly. Use a bolt extractor. You just drill out the head of the bolts then hammer the bolt extractor and turn. Works great. check youtube for videos.
Old 10-19-2012, 04:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #46 (permalink)
 
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If the problem is beyond just a torqued thread that's really tight you can take a hammer and rap the head of the bolt to upset the treads if there's corrosion, rust or Lock-tite. Has anyone suggested heat around the body to expand the part?
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
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I wouldn't heat due to the proximity of the rubber bushing. Impact wrench and back-out worked like a charm.

Replacement bolt is M8 x 20 metric.

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Old 09-05-2016, 01:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #48 (permalink)
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