RSR flares -- what wheels/tires?

[Jack Olsen]

Let's just say a guy was considering RSR/Turbo flares on an early car, and that he was willing to get some 16- or 17-inch three-piece Fuchs made. What would be the best wheel width for these flares, and what tire sizes would be appropriate (and available)? I assume you 930 guys have been down this road, but a simple search didn't turn up much that I could use.

[MMARSH]

Jack,

when I bought my first set of 17's I bought them from a guy who had them on his 930. they were 3 inch outers and 6 inch inners in the front and 4 inch outers and 7 inch inners in the rear. When I used them for my car I used both set of outers with five inch inners. I still have the 6 and 7 inch inners sitting in the garage. If you decide to go that route let me know. The inners are more expensive the the outers.

[widebody911]

With 'normal' (non-turbo) trailing arms, I've seen 12's on the rear. I've run 9's, and heard of people running 10's, on the front. Don't know the offset and backspacing though, I've been trying to figger that out myself, as I also want to get a couple of sets made.

I had a set of 15" 9&11 RSR wheels for a while - those were da bomb, but I couldn't find a 285/40
tire for the rears, so I sold 'em - d'oh!

Also, you [i]are[/] aware that RSR flares have a different profile than Turbo flares, right?

Check out http://lindseyracing.com/wheels.htm

[cegerer]

"Let's just say a guy was considering RSR/Turbo flares on an early car, .... "

And would this "guy" be painting these flares black, by chance? -- CUrt

[beepbeep]

285/40-15 back is *just perfect* for 930-flares.
245/40-15 in front is also just right...

You might fit 345 back but you'll need to change camber to avoid rubbing. Also, more than 245-width in front will just give you heavy steering and other problems.


Here's the pic of my 930 with 285 back, 235/50 front...

[Early_S_Man]

Jack,

Following the lead of the factory engineers in '74 on the RS 3.0 ... 8's and 9's with 27 mm and 54 mm spacers and 72 mm/100 mm studs is how I chose to go.

Since the appropriate 15" tires are almost unobtainable, now, I recently got a pair of 16 x 9's, and those seem the way to go on a new project, for now ...

A close watch of the Pantera news groups and their ongoing attempts to negociate a bulk purchase of a short run of 285/40ZR-15 tires may be productive to 'our' cause in the future ... but only time will tell if the 15" wheels and tires are a lost cause!

[beepbeep]

I second this.

If you want to be "historically correct", use wide 15-inchers. 345/35's are still in production, 285/40's can be obtained from De Tomaso guys.

Somebody should try to convince Yokohama to make new batch of 285's AVS Sport's...

[Bill Verburg]

The best selection of rubber is in the 17" size, diminishing selection in 16" or 18". The front width for RSR or turbo flares should be 9" and the rear 11"(as with narrow 911 bigger can be fitted with some effort). 8" fits with +23.3 os and the 27mm spacer(Thom has the 82-89 hubs which have the spacer built in earlier cars had the separate spacer). 8" with +10.6 mm os or 9" with +15mm os and 54mm spacer fits in the rear. Wider rims require correspondingly thinner spacers. As Warren pointed out the spacers also need longer studs. In Germany, Porsche had to get a TUV exemption to use the spacers as that width is not normally allowed.

[rattlsnak]

I have a nice set of 15" BBS silver mesh type, I think they are 15x8, and 15x12. They could be possibly 10 and 12s or 8 and 10s. And also a nice set or RUF 8 and 9x17s. let me know.....

[emcon5]

Finally building the wife a car?

Tom

[Jack Olsen]

A quick look at Tire Rack reveals the following maximum sizes:

Kumho Ecsta V700 = 335/35WR17 , 225/50WR16
Yokohama A032R = 315/35ZR17 , 255/50ZR16
Hoosiers = 335/35ZR17 , 275/45ZR16
Bridgestone S03 = 265/40YR17, 245/45YR16
Toyo Proxes RA-1 = 255/40ZR17 , 255/50ZR16

So let's say 17s are the way to go, with 8s in front and 10s in back. Would it be possible, putting together custom inner and outer combinations, to avoid spacers and longer studs? If I went with 4.5 inch inners, and 3.5 inch outers in front, and 4.5 inch inners and 5.5 inch outers in back?

Can I put 335s on a 10-inch wheel?

[scca_ita]

I got a really good deal on some 16x8s and 17x10s for street (HRE) and 16x9s and 17x11s for track (Speedlines). This size was popular about 6 years ago for tire combinations. I think unless you have brake clearence problems that this gives a 911 a good nose down profile without harming the suspension geometry. Not to mention the tires are cheeper for the fronts.

For street I am running 225/50-16 and 275/40-17. For the track I will use 245 and 315.

315 should work on 10 inch but I would not put 335s on 10 inch rims.

[CamB]

These wheel spacing ones always interest me

When everyone talks of spacers, I am figuring that this is to push the wheel as far out from the hub as possible, not to clear the calipers so much as to fill the arches. I guess what Jack is asking is what total width fits (looks like 9s and 11s), what tyre size (HUUUUUUUGE) and, if he was getting custom wheels, what is the offset.

Personally I understand backspacing better - it looks like Jack does too Offset is not intuitive (correct me if I have got this wrong, but 1" wider with 1/2" decrease in offset is no change in backspacing).

So what is the maximum backspacing permissable to fit - presumably Jack could then pick how much outer beyond that?

(edit) starting to think about it more - the offset (or spacers) must be relevant in determining whether calipers fit or not. I think I am all wrong again...

Cam

[Jack Olsen]

Narrowing it down: 9x11x17 3-piece Fuchs with 245s in front and 335s in back. 4.5 inch inners all around and 4.5 inch outers in front and 6.5 inch outers in back.

Would this work without any spacers?

Am I on the right path?

And yes, the paint color might be black.

[Joe Bob]

Anything will fit without spacers when you custom build a wheel. It depends on the offset.

The way to go is find some cruddy 16x6s, machine off the faces, powder coat or polish to taste....then get custom halves....put them together in any offset, width or diameter you want. My next door neighbor is doing that right now. 17x11 for the rears and 16x9 up front.

If you want I can get the name of the manufacturuer/supplier of the halves. I am sure the supplier can supply offset recommendations as well.

Z

[TRE Cup]

We're getting a set of 9 and 11 x 17 HRE 3 piece wheels with "fuchs" style centers, painted guards red for a IROC replica we are building (turbo / early RSR flares) The car has 74 suspension , which has the same offsets as on Jack's car. We went with 4 5/8" back spacing. The factory fuchs (9 and 11 inch) have 4 1/2 back spacing. The logic is to use a very thin spacer if needed and fill out the flares. We have 245 x 17 front and 315 x 17 rear Yokohama 032R tires in line for the car.
The RS 3.0 and the original IROC cars had weird fenders that were NOT turbo width. They were close, but not quite there. Being hand hammered and rolled by the factory munchkins, the shapes were similar to a 911ST, only wider.
HRE takes 5-6 weeks to complete an order. Cost is approx $2900 for the set of four, including the center paint.
15 inch big wheels are , unfortunately, a thing of the past. If you have a real racer that used these, then by all means, spend the $$ to get some Avons or Michelins for the correct look. Otherwise, you will hard pressed to get DOT legal rubber that is wide enough or sticky enough to be worthwhile

[RarlyL8]

The siren call of the flared fender. Impossible to resist.

Jack - if you're going to track or lower your car I'd go 315 in the rear.
Your car may have special needs when it comes to available tire space, due to the 3.6 and all its plumbing.

I would put off having the wheels made until after the car is flared. There are too many variables to consider on your particular car. You can measure EXACTLY what you need once the job is done. Expect the sides to be asymetrical.

[orbmedia]

Jack,

This guy:



has the HRE (9"/11") wheels with the Fuchs centers on his lightweight 911 racer. It looks cool.

The whole article is at http://early911sregistry.org/jCalzia.html I'm sure you've seen it.

[widebody911]

Jack - your car would be over-the-top with a set of RSR or Turbo flares.

[Bill Verburg]

Since most of the time one is concerned about the position of the outer lip, offsets are the most convienient measurement The lower the + offset # the more the wheel sticks outboard and the less brake clearance there is(deeper dish). The higher the offset # the more inboard the lip is and the more brake clearance there will be.

Ex. An 8" and 9" rim with the same offset will place the outer lip of the 9" rim 12.7mm further outboard than the 8" because if the offet is the same .5*25.4 = 12.7, If the lip has to be in the exact same position as the lip of the 8 then offset of the 9 needs to have an offset 12.7mm less than the offset of the 8. Just be sure that there is room to move the inboard lip 25.4mm towards the car centerline.

Ex. A common front upgrade for narrow 911 is for a +23.3 mm 7" to be replaced by a +23.3mm 8" . In this case the outer lip will be 12.7mm further outboard. hence the lip rolling/shaving. When I bought my 8" Kinesis I used +25mm os which moved the outer lip 1.7mm inboard. For my car this was desireable to fit wider tires (235 vs 225) and I wanted additional brake clearance. If I had gone with Fikse 8s their os was +18.6 which would have had less lip clearance and also less brake clearance.

Ex. A +10.6mm 8 from the back of a 911 cannot be used on the front of a 911 while a +23.3mm 944 8 can be used because the +10.6(deep dish) will stick(you guess it) 12.7mm further outboard than the +23.3