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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Yakima, WA
Posts: 421
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My newest "what is this"
Well since im in the very starting stages of cleaning the car up im curious what is this and is it okay to remove? The copper tubing goes into a reducer/ cone thing and then into the lower section of the air box on the drivers side and the other end seems to wrap around and dead ends behind the air box, i cant tell if it connects to anything or if its a vent of some sort. If its okay to remove im assuming that i just need to cap the hole in the airbox where it leads into, correct?
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Almost Banned Once
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Does you car have cruise control? (or did it have?)
Top Photo... Note how it branches to the brake vacuum hose. EDIT.. You could yank out the T piece but you need to replace the brake vacuum hose because it will be to short.
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- Peter Last edited by sc_rufctr; 04-14-2011 at 12:34 AM.. |
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No idea if my car had cruise or not, I diddnt remove it. The past month or so ive learned alot about my car that wasnt told to me by the previous owner, :rolls eyes:
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Ryan- Sad day when my 83 911 left me ![]() |
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Almost Banned Once
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That's normal. I've owned my car for nearly 12 years and the things I've "discovered" would be a long list.
Just hang in there and don't get stressed about the details. They really are great cars to drive an own. ------------------------------------------ On my car there is no T piece or copper pipe like yours. My brake vacuum hose goes directly into the air box. So you could remove that and get a longer vacuum hose to replace it.
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- Peter Last edited by sc_rufctr; 04-14-2011 at 06:14 AM.. |
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in the last pic, can someone tell me what the 2 blue connectors are also? and should they be plugged into each other?
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Ryan- Sad day when my 83 911 left me ![]() |
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I think the lower connection is the Cold Start Valve and the upper one is the air flow sensor. Both should be connected to the main harness.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS Last edited by snbush67; 04-14-2011 at 03:54 PM.. |
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Are the connectors that plug into the airflow switch and the cold start vale in the above pic any particular color. I seem to have 3 loose/ random connectors floating on the back side of my cis/ intake. One is blue, one is black and one is green, thoughts on what they might be for?
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Ryan- Sad day when my 83 911 left me ![]() |
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On earlier cars blue goes to the cold start valve, black goes to the aux air regulator .
That would leave green to the Air Flow Sensor.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Iowa
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If you remove the vacuum booster , your car will die or try to when you let off the gas pedal. It makes a kinda intake air leak but in a good way as it lets the idle come down smother. At least that is what we used to call the black tube you are asking about.
It goes from the bottom of the air box up to a fitting at the throttle body. I would leave it there. |
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My '82 motor had two blue and one gray connector pairs. The gray I seem to recall was for the frequency valve on a fuel return line, which is also in that area and which your car has (unless perhaps it was a Euro car). Most confusing, especially as the two blue plug ended wires are long enough to reach either blue plug! So easy to get the air sensor and cold start mixed up, even if their functions are hardly the same.
You can test things. Plug one into the one on the upper right (of the car). Turn on the key to "run." Kneel down by the left front wheel and see if you can hear the fuel pump running. If it does, probably have things reversed, so switch them and repeat the test. If it isn't, you probably guessed right. The fuel pump relay up front has a connection to the rear to this air flow switch. If no air is flowing through your intake, the air measuring plate sits down in its lowest position. In this position this air flow switch is closed, grounding the wire which reaches it from the relay up front. This causes the relay not to close, so no power goes to the fuel pump. When you turn the key to start, this interlock is bypassed and the starter turns the motor over. When the motor starts, the air flow moves the measuring plate up. This opens or ungrounds this circuit, and now the run position of your ignition allows current to get to the fuel pump, keeping it going. But should your car stall and you forgot to turn off the key, the fuel pump will stop. Useful to keep leaky injectors from flooding the engine with gasoline. If you want to check your fuel pump, or its pressure, or something, you can just reach back there and disconnect this and the pump will run without the engine running. You could also peel back the sheath covering the wires on the two blue plugs, and compare wire colors/stripes to the wiring diagram. Which, in case you haven't found it, you can find right here on the Pelicanparts website. Very handy and nice of Wayne to post it. Maybe not for an '83, but you'll find one close enough. |
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