Hopefully get my powdercoating stuff back so I can start making some progress. at least I'm getting some stuff knocked out on the boat!

OK - so it seems that the 964 Tin is easier to modify (for the single pulley conversion and 911 engine carrier) than trying to make the earlier motor tin work.

did that this weekend - got valve covers (and new gaskets) timing chain cover (and new gaskets, tensioners looked good!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310330437.jpg

I am doing more - as the in tunnel fuel lines will be replaced - and I'll go ahead and relocated my fuel pump.

Not making near the progress that I would like to make -

Ya, I can relate to that!

Don't powder coat/finish the engine tin until you test fit the engine and gearbox in your car. I had to chop down the rear of the 964 rear tin that I used - by quite a bit. Test fit in your car before going too far. . .

I can relate to the fact that the process seems to progress far too slowly and take far too long. It's looking really good though!

Tom

Hey = actually got intake gaskets and made some progress last night.

starting to finally look like an engine

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310498699.jpg

Jeremy,
did you read my or Kaefer's thread about the Gurney bump in the back window shelf? This was to provide clearance for the intake. Might be worth exploring this, too. Basically, I used a 4x4" and a jack to make more clearance for the intake.

cheers,

Doug

I did now. Who knew? Just in the center, right?

I didn't have to do anything to the rear parcel shelf on my '74 to get a 964 engine to fit. The 993 injection could be taller though. . . test fit!!

I forgot about the gurney bump until just recently. I think that creating that bump is important to being able to use the early engine console and crossmember without additional spacers.

What I did is test fit the engine and trans under the car while on jackstands to figure out where the gurney bump needed to be in the shelf. IIRC I used the 4x4 in two spots: 1 in the center and 1 just slightly right of center.

The bump may not be 100% necessary but I feel it makes for a better overall 3.6 engine fit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301662674.jpg

Thanks Scott

With the 993 engine, I had no choice, except to use spacers and drop the engine down. Still, I used 1/2" spacer between the chassis and the top of the engine cradle. I think the bump gained me about 1".

My bump is above the idle control valve, which is the high point for me.

for what it is worth, the bump is also not noticeable once the carpet is laid in the back window deck.

Doug

In the process of replacing the in tunnel fuel lines also AND relocating the fuel pump - more fun to come!

Doing the same with the fuel pump, although was cautioned by many about replacing the tunnel fuel lines...at least on a '72. So I was planning to run AN-6 braided lines under the car on the drivers side. Of course I want the cleaner packaging of running factory carrera lines through the tunnel. Decisions. I'm many months away (need to finish rust repair and go to paint before final install).

I'm following Shaun 84 Targa lead on this:

Front and Rear factory metal lines running through the center tunnel flared with fittings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534730.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1308534776.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309571984.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309572008.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309572041.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309572107.jpg

That's a very nice install by Shaun.

I think the extra hassle of steel tubing and flaring is worthwhile. My racecar came with braided stainless hose run through the cabin (cabin area itself, not tunnel) and the car always stunk like fuel. Checked the carbs and made sure they were leak free (whole 'nother story for another thread), replaced some rubber fuel lines in the engine bay since they were old, then decided to tackle the main fuel line. When I removed the main fuel line it was rather crackly if you bent it at a sharp angle. So there's your stinky culprit right there......

Point being is that braided stainless is just like any other rubber hose except it has the metal shield on it to protect it from chaffing. It still ages like other rubber hose, so it doesn't last forever. That said, I replaced my braided hose with new braided and ran it through the tunnel this time. Next time I replace it, i'll use steel tubing run through the tunnel, replacing the old abandoned steel lines that are still present.

Thanks for sharing JD. I always learn something good from your projects

Finished this process - used fittings from Len (BOXSTERGT) Cummings - 3/8 - 10mm fuel lines for both feed and return - 304 stainless steel from McMaster - they were around $30 a piece for 6' sections.

was kind of a biotch to do - but I'm glad it's done. Really glad - as seeing the nylon running through the center tunnel (and passenger compartment) gave a shiver from a safety perspective.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313891694.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313891764.jpg

One is in - this is how the line looks going in
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313891835.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313891900.jpg

pain in the neck - but probably the best alternative to the nylon lines that were in there. I also put some regular fuel line over to make sure there was no rattling (although I can not imagine - they are a snug fit.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313891948.jpg

Fuel filter and accumulator? What are you guys using - just realized my accumulator is like 1/4" input - M10 or M 12??? Should I just get a fuel filter from a 964 and plum

I'm using the 993 filter. I think it is the same as the 3.2L (84 to 89).
There is no accumulator ( to my knowledge).

Doug

I don't know the line and fitting sizes, but my plan is to go with 3.2L fueling throughout (hard lines in tunnel + fuel filter). I haven't bought the lines yet, but assume that it can be done without opening up the pan on my '72. I want to avoid running AN lines underneath the car...

Also, no accumulator needed as far as I can see. I went with a full timmins kit and did buy AN lines from him in case I can't get factory lines into the tunnel.

:)

Hi Jeremy-

Nice job on those lines.

Re- the Accumulator, you don't need it for EFI.

The 964/993 filter should do nicely. I think that has M16 threads.

Just let me know what you need for fittings, they are only a Priority Mail package away.

Len

:)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315108929.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315108942.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315108954.jpg

So laid out the harness - can anybody identify the plug? the directions are pretty matter of fact - and brief - I have the patrick harness.

lines are pretty much complete (except for one of the front lines - that the banjo fitting did not have enough room on)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315087470.jpg

I believe that's an OBD test plug.

Thanks Scott

Exhaust on
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315004964.jpg

getting there
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315087433.jpg

I love the way the 911 engine looks.....looks like something people would find in the desert near area 51

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315316604.jpg

with catch can

The blue wire for the oil temp - which plug??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315414798.jpg

Jeremy -
On my '74 (I just looked) I replaced a green/black wire with the blue wire from the PM harness. . . Just took a quick look @ the wiring diagram to verify too. . .

This one: ??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315415339.jpg

Thanks Tom -

In an effort to make it easier on the next guy - this is the engine tin that needs to be removed from the back of the engine. It doesn't get in the way of the transmission - it gets in the way of the engine shock tower - anyway - needs to be removed - :) Outlined in yellow

The rear tin is OK (even though I removed a little extra for good measure... )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315582313.jpg

Fuel lines came out well

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315535464.jpg

question for those that have been there - done that - plugged in the DME harness - plugged in the connections for the patrick conversion harness. Do I need to do anything at the engine end? What controls the starter?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315535530.jpg

Shock tower crossmember would probably be a better term

and BTW - with the single pulley conversion, older version engine carrier and engine mounts - with the bump added to the rear parcel shelf - the 964 engine fit fine all the way to the stops...

The engine/chassis harness that uses the 14 pin connector controls the starter. You may have to move a wire or two around.


Yep that's my experience too! Thanks again to Doug for the idea of the gurney bump!

:)

Jeremy....

Nice job on the fuel lines/hoses!

Len

:)

Thanks Len - appreciate it. - and appreciate your help through this all.

Have a couple of questions regarding engine connections - What goes here? Didn't see a corresponding plug

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626589.jpg

Are these blower motor connections?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626704.jpg

I'm guessing this is for the hall sensor - no longer therehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626734.jpg

Extra connector?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315626768.jpg

the rest of the engine plugs are pretty well hooked up -

Hi Jeremy,
It looks like you have a tiptronic throttle body with the multiple pins in the contact. If you dont have a tip harness the dme wont see a full throttle contact. I can post pics to show how I dealt with it if you need.
Mark Kinninger

That would be great

Mark,
You need to change your signature to show that killer modded white 996 Turbo that was featured last month in Excellence!

Doug W in SD

Got everything connected - but no start - I can hear the DME clicking - but the starter motor is not going - not sure the fuel pump is going either - although I do have the green wire hooked to the positive lead for the pump.- so partially right - but start - I'll start troubleshooting tomorrow night.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315797017.jpg

Remember, like the 3.2, the computer turns on stage 2 of the DME relay which energizes the fuel pump. It has to see crank movement, first. Lots of times the crank position sensor isn't adjusted properly.

Are you getting spark? If you are getting spark, the DME is seeing the crank move.

Buy, if you don't have one, the fuel injector test light. I think they are called noids.

Hopefully, is something simple. I'm sure it is.

Good luck!

Doug

Arrgghhhhh

Jeremy,

If you want send me a PM with your phone number and we can chat briefly about your wiring. I can look at my car while we're on the phone.

Without looking at my own car to verify - one of those 14 pin connectors connects to the DME harness, the other connects to the '74 chassis harness.

Having the chassis harness connected should allow the starter to spin.

OK - Thanks Scott - I was trying to get into my head how the starter was energized without connecting to the wiring harness of the chassis. from the key side - how does the system know to start the starter? I also need to check that I have 12 volts on the coils too.

I'll PM you my phone number thanks for the offer. But the more I'm thinking about it - there's probably some bridges that I need to make with the chassis harness.