3.6 Engine - What should I do to it before plugging it in

[0396]

Originally Posted by JeremyD

a handy reference picture I found. Not a whole lot new - but worth it for the reference

Nice

[JeremyD]

Got the valve covers off last night

Checked and adjusted valves last night - only two needed any adjustment - the rest were good to go.

Stuff off to powder coater this morning.

[JeremyD]

Originally Posted by 175K911

Hey Jeremy, you're that far apart, have you checked the distributor drive belt yet?

I decided to replace it since I was this far along.... and the o ring. I'll be disappointed if this thing leaks - new seals all around...

[Joe Bob]

I would also consider the single alternator belt conversion.

[JeremyD]

yep - doing the single alternator belt conversion too

[JeremyD]

Flywheel seal replaced.

O rings and gaskets replaced. Looks like they had a leak on where the oil thermostat usually goes - there was some type of sealent there kinda gooped on.

Crank pulley replaced - with Patrick Version

So I can run the earlier cross member and sheet metal.

Injectors back from getting cleaned (they were in good shape - but good insurance) distributor off to get the belt replaced. Again - good insurance.

[KTL]

Looking good JD. Q-tips, rubber glove finger, cellophane plastic, masking tape, paint swabs on potential loose fasteners....... You're worse than me!

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by JeremyD

Crank pulley replaced - with Patrick Version



So I can run the earlier cross member and sheet metal.

Jeremy,

Can you measure the diameter of the PMS crank pulley and the diameter of the stock inner pulley and let us know what the dimensions are? I'm pretty sure the PMS pulley has a smaller diameter vs. the stock pulley.

I went with the Rothsport pulley because it's diameter is the same as stock and I didn't want to slow the fan down by going to a smaller diameter lower pulley.

Please let me know. Thanks!

[Joe Bob]

I'm a known PMS hater, bought the PP version. It has ALWAYS required a blip of the throttle to turn the alt light off at start up. So it's a bit of an underdrive. Doesn't do a thing to the idle.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

It has ALWAYS required a blip of the throttle to turn the alt light off at start up.

I have the PMS version too and like Joe Bob, my alt. light comes on at startup and won't go off until I get the rpms over 2K or so with a blip. Once off though, it stays off even at idle speeds. I've been told that the stock ratio pulleys are not as efficient at higher rpms and cause more drag (ie:lost power) - folklore? dunno. I wish I had a spare wad of cash and a dyno in my garage so I could try all sorts of combinations of pulleys, exhausts, mufflers, engine components etc... Maybe in my next life.

One thing I did have trouble with is getting the PMS pulley on square. I noticed it wobbling quite a bit when checking the oil level when I finally got my car running. I got a few tips from PMS about the install - namely to make sure the pin sits flush w/the outside face of the pulley and to use just a tad of antiseize during the install to allow it to slide on in an even manner. I don't know if the 993 pulley is different than the 964 pulley, which is a tapered fit etc...

I have mixed feelings about PMS. I used a few of their products on my engine conversion, but went elsewhere for other bits as I had a heck of a time getting them to return repeated calls and emails w/questions about product support etc...

[Joe Bob]

Originally Posted by Tom '74 911

...

I have mixed feelings about PMS. I used a few of their products on my engine conversion, but went elsewhere for other bits as I had a heck of a time getting them to return repeated calls and emails w/questions about product support etc...

That's the least of my issues with PMS....a good attitude goes a long way. Don't get me started on their phone ettiquette.

PMS, good acronym for those wankers.

[JeremyD]

Originally Posted by Kaefer

Jeremy,

Can you measure the diameter of the PMS crank pulley and the diameter of the stock inner pulley and let us know what the dimensions are? I'm pretty sure the PMS pulley has a smaller diameter vs. the stock pulley.

it's 96 mm vs 114

Pretty sure Bruce Anderson states in his book that they were able to pick up HP with a smaller crank pulley turning the fan a little slower

[DaddyGlenn]

Originally Posted by JeremyD

it's 96 mm vs 114

Pretty sure Bruce Anderson states in his book that they were able to pick up HP with a smaller crank pulley turning the fan a little slower

Very old school... Back in the day we'd put a "power pulley" on our VW bugs for the same effect. Turns the fan at a slower rate which basically reduced the hp lost to turning the fan. Down side is the fan turns slower which reduces the cfm over the engine. This could be bad if environmental factors and tight original engerining tolerances conspire against you. Might not be a big deal on these motors. But it was a concern on a built up bug motor.

[JeremyD]

Hey Tom - is the 10 x 750 fan belt the same one used on the 996 turbos? (which is listed as 10 x 753)

[JeremyD]

modified the heater fan duct just need to paint it

[175K911]

Don't you need the fitting to blow air into the distributors?

[JeremyD]

I'll drill and plumb once I get it painted.

[175K911]

I figured you would know that, but wanted to be sure. Gonna be a fun toy when it's all done.

[DW SD]

I have the PMS crank pulley and do not have the need to blip the throttle to energize the alternator. I have a '95 fan, intake and alternator. Maybe that is why?

I also ended up using an 11mm wide fan belt. It fit the pulleys fine and seemed a bit more robust when I was selecting it. At the local NAPA, they have every conceivable type and size of belt, it seems.

Doug

[chaw704352]

Good luck. That is a clean looking engine. I am still planning on doing a 3.6 myself. I look forward to following your install.