Newbie question - Removing e-brake

[LightSpeeder]

Hello all, I am new to the site. I have a 77 911 S with a slant nose kit. Looking to set it up for the track and thinking about adding the Hargett shifter.

I see that folks have talked about removing the Emergency brake. Is there an alternative to the e-brake (e.g. is t relocated somehow?)

Any links to prior threads are appreciated as well.

[Grady Clay]

LightSpeeder,
WELCOME to Pelican
You will find a lot of help here.

How ‘track ready’ is your ’77?

Starting out, you should make every system in the 911 work as new.
Depending on the sanctioning body, there are a few systems you can remove or modify, also depending on the level of ‘non-original’ you are willing to tolerate.

The original shifter can probably use new plastic bushings and general service.
I would not hesitate to run the Daytona 24-hour with nothing more than well maintained original shifting.
No matter what you do to the linkage, it will not ‘speed shift’.

Some remove the parking brake to lessen the ‘unsprung weight’.
I would long consider the hassle of not having a parking brake (and already have everything else very light) before removing it.


Please post some pictures of your 911.
Details of the various systems will help us advise.
The Search Function will find you lots of threads.


Where do you intend to race?
There are lots of choices but SCCA specs are the ones to follow, particularly safety related.
http://cms.scca.com/documents/2011%20Tech/2011%20GCR-printed%20version.pdf
Others are PCA Club Racing, NASA, POC and more.

Properly preparing a 911 for racing is an art that has been practiced for almost 47 years.
Use the existing body of knowledge and experience to build a successful racer.
To do otherwise, inventing, you will end up wasting a lot of time and money.

Most often, it is economical to buy an already set-up successful racer.

Keep in mind that most of the cost racing is not in buying or building a 911 race car – the expense is ‘Going Racing’.

Many of us have raceable street cars (or streetable race cars) that can serve both functions.
Depending you your local regulations, that is something to consider.
A well prepared (and intending to be successful) Porsche race car is one that you unload from your trailer, ready to win that particular race event.
You then put it back in the trailer to prepare it for the next event.
Only a few can drive to events and successfully compete (and occasionally must borrow a trailer home ).

I hope this helps.

Again, WELCOME.

Best,
Grady

[LightSpeeder]

Grady,

Thanks for the good information. My daily driver is a 2007 Cayman, so the 1977 will be mostly used for fun events with Hooked On Driving. I guess I am looking at more of a "raceable street car" as you note. My SCCA days are over.

I was originally worried that the 1977 had a potential issue with the 2.7 L engine, and wasnt sure I wanted to put any money into it. My mechanic told me today the engins is actually a 1978 3.0 L motor that has already had the chain tensioner conversion done. Wow Christmas!

Knowing that, I will turn my attention to other things - right now replacing the shocks, and upgrading the exhaust first.


Thanks,

Brad

[Grady Clay]

Brad,

Good that you have a 3.0 with some up-dates.
What do you know about the condition of the engine?
What year and configuration (stock CIS, carbs, other)?
Have you done a cranking compression test, cylinder leak test, checked valve adjustment & cam timing and inspected the cylinder head nuts?

I see some large, non-original brakes. (Good)
What other mods are there?
What is wrong with the shocks?

What tires are those? How old?
Tires are the single most important thing you can do for your 911.
For this:
Hooked On Driving - Leading National Performance Driving Program, High Performance Driving Experience, High Performance Driving School
- you will find the ‘right’ and consistent condition tires to be critical to learning and progressing.
Tires will also be your largest ongoing expense and worth every pfennige.

The most critical and highest maintenance is your brake system.
Are the dust shields still in place? If so, remove them.
Do you have 996 air deflectors for the front brakes? If not, install them.
Inspect your pads for appropriate track compound. If unknown or worn, replace them.
Bleed the brake system with new, appropriate brake fluid.
Inspect everything for like-new condition.

You will be on some ‘hot’ tracks. (I mean temperature.)
What engine cooling do you have?
Is there a full-fin front fender oil cooler (preferably with ductwork and fan)?
Does the 3.0 engine have the ’80-> 245 mm, 11-blade fan?
(I recommend the Rubbermaid Solution for ~$100 to keep the engine cool.)

How is your shifting?
It can be a serious distraction if the shifting doesn’t work as original or better.
It can be an expensive “oops” if you get into the wrong gear.

Your personal safety is paramount!
I would consider 5-point seat belts (X2), an appropriate seat (X2) and a bolt-in roll bar (or at least a ‘shoulder-belt bar’).
I’m sure you have heard the “What is your head worth?” argument about quality helmets and neck restraints.
Fires are very uncommon but even a small burn injury is outrageous.
A multi-layer, 1-piece driver’s suit, several layers of Nomex underwear, sox and gloves are a wise safety investment.

Your 911 will go faster than many fully prepared race cars. Treat it as a racer from a safety point-of-view.

Everything you do should be to get your 911 back in known ‘like-new’, ‘track-ready’ condition.
Performance enhancing mods can wait.

There are also many more organizations around the Bay Area that will give you good-instruction track time.
Try PCA and NASA.
There are also some great Drver's Schools.
‘There is no substitute’ for experience.

I hope this helps.
Enjoy

Best,
Grady