Fix: 3.2 A/C #2 fuse FINALLY!!!!

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey Fellas!

Here is another fix but credit goes to WWEST, he directed me to swap the #1 Fuse Block. DONE, SHE IS FINALLY FIXED!!! She does not blow the fuse or shrink the fuse from extreme heat causing a short in the A/C System. In fact, I measured the temps on the #2 Fuse and the Wire.

My findings showed 75 degrees, on Fuse holder bottom post and all components stayed at ambient temps.

Issue: For years since I owned her, during the summer on "Hi" she would work for awhile then I would smell something burning or a loud pop from my trunk area then my A/C would die. I went through maybe 6+ fuses one summer The weirdest thing is that when I smelled the burning plastic, the fuse was in place but it SHRANK, WTF

Then last year I had enough and tried to correct the issue, cleaning, polishing the fuse holders, EVEN BENDING THE HOLDER TO INSURE THE FUSE WILL STAY EVEN IF IT MELTED (WRONG) cleaned and lubed Front Condenser Motor also the Evaporator Motor in the Smugglers box, changed Smuggler's Box Relay. Verified Proper Refrigerant Levels. I use ES12a so it is less of a load on the Compressor to boot.

Note: it would never have issues on low or medium fan but after all the above, on high the fuse would melt.

At HIGH position, I measured the temperature on the fuse holder at the bottom contact it reached a high level of 120-140 degrees, OMG! Something is DEFINITELY WRONG HERE!

I took Gerry's aka 86 911 Targa advise before swapping parts and measured DVM readings, The Evaporator Motor had only 10.33 volts on High and 1.7 Ohms when off. Low was 3.5 Medium was 5.6. Front Condenser on HIGH was 12.53 I really did not want to replace the Evap Motor

Well I already ordered the new FUSE BLOCK & Two Rails so I figured it it isn't the block, she will get a re-fresh. I did notice the 8 Gauge HOT RED LEAD going into #1 of FUSE BLOCK 2 had a bit of corrosion, I promptly cleaned it. I would have missed this if I did not replace the rails.

SURPRISE! It fixed it!

WARNING! The new fuse block is not the same in the back as the OEM when she was put together at the factory.

Front: SAME, (the rails do not go that way, just placed it there so they will not get lost) found bottom post rivet on #2 was loose. but still made the necessary contact.

See the black discoloration #2, that's from all the blown fuses.

Back: The upper brass strip goes to all three posts. I did not want to chance it so I severed the strip in between #1 & #2 Fuse Holder Post. OEM strip on does connect to post #2 & #3. I wonder why PAG installed the rail, in-security???


New Block came with two 25 amp fuses and one 8 amp, maybe they sent me the engine bay block???

Going to the desert tomorrow, will update to see if it truly fixed it or not. Test show good but will try it in the field.

Jim

Thanks again to WWest and 86 911 Targa

[gregwils]

I have tried to clean every connector, ground and anything electrical on my car...........except the back of the fuse block. Now I am wondering if that should be next?

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, as you can see there was no corrosion in the back but it would not hurt I guess?

My issue was the excessive heat from Fuse Holder #2 made the springiness holder lose it's tension. Sorry I don't know how to better explain it, this is what WWest suggested.

The bonus was it did fix the over heating.

UPDATE: I just returned from being out in the desert at high ambient temps 95-100 degrees and left my A/C on for couple hours on HIGH. She did not pop or melt the#2 FUSE

[drola]

i'm having the same exact issue. i live in miami so i NEED that high speed setting but keep melting fuses after about 15 minutes. fortunately my car has an upgraded a/c so even on speed 2 it cools well but mid-day drives get pretty warm inside my black coupe.
i've tried just about everything including cleaning the fuse holder and rails, replaced the relay (which was pretty crusty anyway), oiled the blower motor, checked the speed switch, temp switch, resistors in the footwell. my last thing to check was going to be the butt connectors going to the blower motor.
so if i understand this right, your issue was the dirty 8 guage? or was it the fuse block?

[DRACO A5OG]

Fuse Block, apparently the years of use and recent (couple of years to be more exact) extreme heat cycles compromised the holder at #2, losing it's tension quality and also caused too much resistance not allowing full 12volts to reach the blower motors which is the real problem.

The 8 gauge wire on #1 of Fuse Block #2 was a coincidence but I felt it better to clean it anyways.

Why not just try cleaning that first before ordering the part from the dealer at $21.00 and two rails. I would take a reading at the connectors of both blower motors at all level and after cleaning, if no change then the FUSE BLOCK needs to be changed.

Jim

[drola]

i'll give that a shot. my car only has one blower motor since all the original ventilation stuff was removed for the upgraded evaporator. all the cables get hot - from the fuse to the relay to the motor. i also messed with the tension but no change. definitely having resistance somewhere.

[DRACO A5OG]

At high, the voltage reading at the blower connector should be almost 12 volts, 5.5-6 at medium and 3.5 at low. Compliments of Gerry (86 911 Targa).

If you do end up getting the Fuse Block, make sure you check the back strip, I had to cut it to match the OEM. Also get two new rails.

Post your findings,

Jim

[drola]

thanks a bunch for the tips. i've really been needing to get to the bottom of this. it will be a couple days before i can get to it but will definitely post my findings.

[drola]

btw - is there a local 911 anonymous chapter in miami. i'm overdue for a meeting!

[DRACO A5OG]

Pay it Forward Brother!

Next thing for me is to add a 7.5 amp fuse on the Front Condenser Motor .

RSD!

Jim

[rusnak]

I think Fred Cook (possibly) changed his fuse block to the American spade style. Someone did, I think it was him.....

[DRACO A5OG]

Rusnak-Sama

Yeap, that was the back up plan. I was actually going to place a bypass fuse holder if the Fuse Block did not work but I like the OEM look better.

Matta-Ne

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by drola

btw - is there a local 911 anonymous chapter in miami. i'm overdue for a meeting!

LOL, I nominate you President of MIAMI Charter

[DRACO A5OG]

Update: All day on HIGH, all good.

[Barrpete]

I've had the same melting fuse problem but it went away for a while after I replaced a faulty VR and I attributed it to that. But taking a closer look the fuse is still getting quite hot and shows discoloration. I'm going to give this a try.

[Barrpete]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I think Fred Cook (possibly) changed his fuse block to the American spade style. Someone did, I think it was him.....

Yup, and a work of art too.
Flat Fuse Find!.....

[DRACO A5OG]

And easier to install blown fuses to boot ^^^

[wgirardot]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Pay it Forward Brother!

Next thing for me is to add a 7.5 amp fuse on the Front Condenser Motor .

RSD!

Jim

will an inline fuse (7.5 amp at front condensor fan) work on either wire. Please specifiy which wire, as I want to take this measure as well

thanks,

Bill

[DRACO A5OG]

RED HOT WIRE between the connector and motor.

Apparently it is designed for GM's.

[wgirardot]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

RED HOT WIRE between the connector and motor.

Apparently it is designed for GM's.

thanks !!