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Brorag
 
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another suspension rebuild--rubber bushings--it ain't that special, just expensive...

I'm doing a complete suspension rebuild. It's the last thing to fix on the wee beastie. Why? Here goes............
I was due the yearly p-car inspection, and the tires were too worn. I had maintained correct inflation, but.................it wasn't too pigeon-toed, but it was knock-kneed to beat the band. The camber was so bad..................I ordered and installed new Michelins model XXXexpensive; you know, the ones that stick like glue until they don't, and you do a 180 while traveling at speed. It's a totally crapulus experience. I suggest not trying it............ The installer refused to allow any proration for the old tires (30K miles) although they were rated for 45K miles. BTW, I understand that 30K on these tires are about as good as one can expect.

But I digress.............
  • New tires, better get the car balanced--
  • no one wanted to touch it here in WNC--
  • all said take it to the Porsche dealership.
I did.
  • They had some new wizz-bang alignment thingy
  • All the mechanics drooled heavily over the wee beastie--said they wished theirs look this good.
  • the sales guys looked down their noses.
  • other customers started telling me about when they had one like that, and that their new one doesn't ride like the old ones, and, and, and
Dave, the alignment guy (............said "Dave" on his white lab coat....)said he couldn't bring it fully into alignment because the suspension parts were too worn. He said they could do it, but advised against it, and gave me a list of the parts needed to fix it; "go away and rebuild the suspension and come back so he could align it correctly".

So here I sit, smelling like a goat..............
I decided to stay with the orignal rubber bushing replacements, for a specific technical reason; all other remedies were so expensive that I would have to sleep in the da*n thing when the wife saw the credit card bill at the end of the month.............
I just finished installing a-arm bushings on the drivers side. and will start on the turbo upgrade tire rods. I'm now waiting for the upgraded front A/C condenser before switching to the other side.
I thought I'd get this written down before I forgot it or the car fell on me.
I researched this suspension thing ad-nausium, and found there are as many opinions as there are people owning p-cars. All I got was confused. So, when in doubt, trust in yourself and charge ahead blindly............

Well, I did call RoninLB and he said " I'm wiring my shop; I'm putting 8ga circuits where 12ga would do! Let me know how it works out.
That's Ron for you................

I am installing the Neatrix front a-arm bushings, OE replacements, pelican part #PEL-916268, and they should work well once you get them on. Be prepared for some sweat equity getting them on.
What I've learned thus far:
--instructions say to soak in 200 degree water to make them pliable--it was minimally helpful since they tend to cool off too quickly, but I suggest you do it anyway.
--liberally coat all touching surfaces with liquid dish soap
--insert bushing 1/2 way into both outer casings, both ends
--using your hands, press onto a-arm shafts as much as you can without bottoming out the outer casing against the bushing flange
--take two pony-type wood clamps, and attach to opposite surfaces of the opposing casings on either end of the a-arms
--apply slow, even pressure to draw the assembly together
--you will have to reset the pony clamps a couple of times to shorten them as the assembly is drawn together
--the surface of the bushing on the a-arm surface tends to drag and slide up the shaft slower than the outer casing, and that pulls at the rubber bushing, and distorts it
--if this happens, find the largest socket that will barely fit the back (clamp side) of the casing and use it as a spacer between the pony clamp and the bushing material starting to drag inside the back of the casing

--this process takes lots of patience and resetting the clamps to assure the casing/bushing/a-arm sandwich arrives at the a-arm back flange and stays there
--admonitions:you will want to throw things and take the Porsche name in vain--when you do so, stop for the night, drink lots of spirituous fermenti, and come back at it the following morning. You will prevail. You will also save lots of $$.

Some more free input; while you're at it, order and install the sway bar bushings at the same time; you'll wish you had in the long term.


Last edited by Brorag; 06-19-2011 at 09:25 AM..
Old 06-13-2011, 11:03 AM
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Nice Write Up Brother, any pics for us "Ahh Purty Pictures, Good" type
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:26 AM
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Sounds like it's time for a glass of Glen Fiddich.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:29 AM
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I used a hydraulic press. One thing I would add is to bolt the a-arm assembly on,the car whike the soap is "wet", and let it dry on the car overnight before installing springs.
Old 06-13-2011, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUK View Post
Sounds like it's time for a glass of Glen Fiddich.
Ah Single Malt, NICE
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:33 AM
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Brorag
 
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update--What parts were ordered

"Well", I said to myself, "I've done the rest of the wee beastie, I guess I should do the suspension--beats spending maxi$$ on tires:

order #1--
PEL-916268 Neatrix Front A-Arm Rubber Bushings, Set of 4, 911/930 (1969-89)
911-341-049-01-M69 Ball Joint, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) Brand: Lemfoerder
N-012-521-1-OEM Cotter Pin for Ball Joint Lock Plate, 911 (1974-89), 930 (1976-89) Brand: Genuine Porsche
901-341-426-00-M260 Lock Plate for Ball Joint Bottom Nut, 911 (1969-89), 930 (1976-89) Brand: OEM
901-341-425-00-M260 Nut for Ball Joint to A-Arm Attachment, 911 (1974-89), 930 (1976-89) (Install with PEL-TOL-P210) Brand: O.E.M.
911-341-119-06-M260 Threaded Pin for Ball Joint Attachment (Please see installation instructions above), 911 (1974-89) Brand: O.E.M.
900-089-006-01-OEM Washer for Ball Joint Threaded Pin Brand: Genuine Porsche
999-084-019-02-M100 Lock Nut for Ball Joint Threaded Pin
PEL-TOL-P210 Ball Joint Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, NOTE: For INSTALLATION ONLY, 911 (1965-89), 914 All, 912
ERMP-2130900 Rear CamberMax Adjusters, set, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) with Aluminum trailing arms, Brand: Elephant Racing
ERMP-2290001 Elephant Racing Strut Top Camber Plate Bushing Kit, One Kit Per Car, 911/911 Turbo (1966-89), 914 all, Brand: Elephant Racing
930-347-031-01-M69 Kit TTK-930N: 911 Turbo Tie Rod Brand: Lemfoerder
930-347-191-02-M260 Kit TTK-930N: Steering Rack Boot, 911 Turbo (1974-89) Brand: OEM
930-347-313-01-M260 Kit TTK-930N: Spacing Washer for Tie Rod Brand: OEM
ERMP-2290003 Elephant Racing Rubber Spring Plate Bushing Kit, Set Of Four plus installation materials, 911/911 Turbo (1968-89)


Hey, I didn't get but one Lock Plate for Ball Joint Bottom Nut! Ordered 2!

Hi, Thank you for contacting us on this matter. I was advised by our warehouse that both left together. Can you please check that these two aren't stuck together.

They're right.
Haa haa.
I'm dumb....................

Then I Went 100 miles below Savanna, Ga 3 weeks ago on a road trip and it was HOT! ~100 deg and 100% humidity and the A/C was blowing warm air.
.........Well, since I'm already under the car and in the same area, why don't I replace that front A/C condenser with a more efficient one (sound familar?) before I recharge the system. (the rest of the system has already been replaced)

order #2--
911-573-056-02-GR $279.00 A/C Condenser, Front, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) NOTE: Includes new o-rings and flare adapters for earlier years Brand: Griffiths



Oh crap!, what if I hit a low spot and tear out the new condenser! It could happen!:

order #3--
PEL-SP7002 Spoiler Protection Skid Plates (drilling required), 912/911/930 (1974-89)


Might as well do sway bar bushings while I've got it apart:

911-343-881-00-M136 Front Under Body Sway Bar Bushing, 22mm Stock Rubber (4 per car, sold individually), 911/911 Turbo (1986-89), Brand: O.E.M.
477-411-313D-M253 21mm Rear Sway Bar Bushing (2 per car, sold individually), 911 Carrera(1986-89), each Brand: Uro Parts



You know, its been years since I 've tuned the wee beastie. It deserves a tune-up..........:

order #4--
2012-M19 Liqui Moly Anti-seize Compound, 100g
4477-M14 Bosch 4477 Platinum+4 Spark Plug, 911 (1984-89), Brand: Bosch
930-602-919-00-M47 Distributor Cap, 911 Carrera (1984-89), Brand: Beru
930-602-902-01-M14 Ignition Rotor, 911 Carrera (1984-89), Brand: Bosch
CE-9191-18 Spark Plug Wire Separator - 8.5mm
PEL-MAGN65108 Magnecor Wire Set including coil wire, KV85 (red) 911 Carrera 1985-89








At least it's keeping me off the streets.......... I need a drink. Lagavoulin, anyone? Cigar?

Last edited by Brorag; 06-13-2011 at 01:15 PM..
Old 06-13-2011, 12:30 PM
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Brorag
 
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pics of suspension overhaul

What's left when all is removed


Plate removed--rear a-arm attachment and tie rod location


front A/C condenser location


Bushing pressing setup


ball joint tool--heating pot for bushings


reinstalled ball joint
Old 06-13-2011, 02:05 PM
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fun read. wait till you get to the rear suspension, you know all those bushing are wore out to.
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:33 PM
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why did it take me 1 1/2 days to loosen this rear spring plate?

I researched, sweated blood trying all the proposed fixes for a day and a half--I'm not gonna ask for help on this, I'll figure it out myself...............
  • I beat on it
  • I soaked in rust breaker upper stuff
  • I heated with a torch
  • I beat it with a larger BFH (hammer)
  • I cussed it to high heaven
  • I finally brought my buddy the alignment guy after to look at it............ "first time I've seen a Porsche suspension--good design"
"what's wrong?"
you didn't remove the 4th bolt, dumba*s..............
I just sat there, too tired to beat myself up.........................



There are 4 bolts instead of 3 holding the sombit*h on. Dumba*s.

Also, see those two remaining bolts on the swing arm? I couldn't figure out why Dave (the porsche alignment guy in the white lab coat) said to replace all the eccentrics until I tried to get them off. They had totally rusted to and become at one with the swing arm.
It took a 1" breaker bar, a can of rust melt stuff, and a 6 foot piece of tubing to get them loose.
I now understand why people come away from doing this job cussing like a sailer.................

Last edited by Brorag; 06-19-2011 at 09:09 AM..
Old 06-18-2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brorag View Post

Well, I did call RoninLB and he said " I'm wiring my shop; I'm putting 8ga circuits where 12ga would do! Let me know how it works out.
That's Ron for you................
about time he started wiring his dream garage......i'll have to give him a call
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:17 PM
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Is the dealer going to do the corner balance as well?

If not, why not do the ride height adjustment and alignment yourself. You seem pretty talented.

Tools:

Tape measure
PVC Pipe, String
HD Digital 24" level and some plastic Bolts/Jam Nuts
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:28 PM
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Brorag
 
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alignment, el al

I will, but only to get it to the guy in the white lab coat. The dealership doesn't do corner balancing anyway, so I'll be doing that. If I did the alignment, I'd scrub a set of tires faster than this guy.
JD
Old 06-19-2011, 08:43 AM
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Brorag
 
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Ron's shop

Bell,
lets go up and surprise him; "yo, Ron, whats for breakfus?"
Where're youse at?
sittin in yo fuc*'n driveway!
What the fu*k time is it?
It's fu*k'n 3AM; yous gonna sleep all day, or fuc*k'n what?
how does his sainted wife put up with him? He's a legend in his own mind
JD

Last edited by Brorag; 06-19-2011 at 08:59 AM..
Old 06-19-2011, 08:48 AM
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Nice write up.

I am next to follow in your footsteps.....if I can just find someone local (Sonoma County) that has done the front end before to help me, hint, hint.

Can I buy/borrow your ball joint socket?

Warner
Old 06-19-2011, 08:54 AM
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:01 AM
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Warner,
Yes you may, as soon as I'm done with it. It fell under the bench and I've not gone after it yet--still have to do the other side.
I don't want the dam*thing lying around to remind me of this experience...............
I didn't used to cuss like this.....................................
"whatever doesn't kill you is called experience"
actually, that's not fair to the wee beastie. I've caused most of the heartache myself by not knowing all the little tricks..............one of them is drinking heavily before and after working on one's suspension.
jd

Last edited by Brorag; 06-19-2011 at 09:28 AM..
Old 06-19-2011, 09:14 AM
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Brorag
 
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Warner,
Why don't you go over to Wayne's new place and do it in the back of the warehouse? I'm sure he won't mind. Actually, he said something about putting a car on the roof--it could be your work area, kinda like one of those living store windows in New York City.
Looks like he's got lots of extra room. Parts would be easy to access also..............
Wayne, go ahead and use the idea, I won't charge you...............
Old 06-19-2011, 09:32 AM
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Great idea, I will start right now.......


Oh Wayne..
Old 06-19-2011, 10:03 AM
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How about I load up the p-car with some 25y/o California Cabernet and drive on over?

That way I can learn from the blood on your hands. LOL

Warner
Old 06-19-2011, 10:10 AM
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LOL..........My last name is Henderson. Maybe we are related??? hehe

I love you man....oops I meant my car a 86 Targa.

Old 06-19-2011, 10:37 AM
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