What to look for on a 3.0

[80spitfire]

Originally Posted by dhagood

you will need an external oil cooler, so start looking around for one. our host sells just the cooler, cooler kits, etc, etc.

be sure to ask the original owner to include the CD 6 pin box prior to picking the engine up. also ask him what else you will need besides the engine. make sure you get the CIS, airbox, WUR (warm up regulator) and whatever else you might need as well, or at least know that you will need to find one somewhere.

do SCs also require a fuel accumulator?

edit: if i read the PET correctly, a 74S did not have the trombone cooler in the right front fender, which is what i mean by "an external oil cooler". if this is true, then you will need the oil thermostat as well as all the plumbing between the trombone cooler and the engine/oil tank. it looks like there is a different oil tank for the 74S and the 75 model year, which means that you're looking at a both a big change and a lot of money.

good luck

I will definitely make sure he includes that with it. I'm not sure if it has the right cooler in the front, but I know it does for sure have one up there because I saw it when I pulled the fenders. I'm not sure on the oil tank however that would be kinda sucky if I needed that..

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by 80spitfire

Unfortunately no I didn't get the oil cooler because he's doing putting a turbo in the car that had it so he didn't disassemble the whole car or anything. I think he's giving me the CD 6 pin box but I'm not sure since the motor isn't out yet.

Did you have the head studs checked on the 3.0 engine before you bought it? No compression and leakdown on it? Do you like gambling?

[dhagood]

Originally Posted by 80spitfire

I will definitely make sure he includes that with it. I'm not sure if it has the right cooler in the front, but I know it does for sure have one up there because I saw it when I pulled the fenders. I'm not sure on the oil tank however that would be kinda sucky if I needed that..

that's great news that you already have an oil cooler in the right front fender. it means you already have the proper oil tank, oil thermostat, and all the oil lines.

once you have the engine in your possession, make sure you do all the things that having the engine out of the car enables (or at least is much easier to do):

replace seals, o-rings, and all the rubber fuel lines.
adjust the valves.
check the head studs.
clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.

i'm sure there are other things worth doing. you might want to browse through this thread, which has a lot of useful information.

[80spitfire]

That's great news that I have the right stuff! I'll have to check in to the fuel accumulator situation once I get the motor and I can post the number on here. I figured probably the best way to explain what I know about the motor is to just copy and paste the craigslist add on here and let you guys read it.

Great running porsche engine for sale

As you probably already know, the 3.0 litre SC engine is probably one the most durable flat 6 Porsche ever produced. This one is a Euro spec out of my 1981 SC, engine code 930/06 serial 6304357 (which means no cat, and more power). The engine runs great and is still in my summer daily driver. Would be a great replacment motor, or upgrade for an early 911. Would also be a great foundation for a hot rod build, as the 3.0 blocks are so stout. Has had regular oil changes with castrol 20-50 and annual valve service. the engine has never been opened to my knowlede (which goes back 22 years), I knew the previous owner who had it since 1990, I have had it since 2001. The engine needs nothing but to be installed in another car, if you are curious, I check the head studs every vavle service and they are all solid. I have made the following mprovments: removed smog pump, added carrera chain tensioners, new alternator bearings, new injectors, new intake gaskets, silicone valve cover gaskets, painted valve covers, and CIS pop off valve. The plugs and rotor have less then 10K on them. very little oil consumption (even for a porsche). The engine is very clean, with only a little sweating on the bottom end. Leaves a dime size drop after siting for a while, so again, pretty darn good for a porsche flat 6. I do not have leak down numbers, but since the engine runs strong and idles great, I have not seen the need. I plan on leaving it in the car until it sells so buyers can see it in action.

The engine comes complete tip to tail, exhaust, sheet metal, intake asy - everything, inlcuding the smog pump I removed. shoudl be bolt in to most applications, especially from mid 70's to mid 80's. So based on what I see these sell for on Ebay this is a good price, plusyou dont have to pay shipping and get to hear it run and go for a ride.

Why am I selling? I am going to a turbo engine. I also am going to sell the 915 transmission with LSD, its also listed here on CL would consider a package deal. If you are interested, I also have most of the components for a EFI turbo system (exhaust, intake, injectors, computer, turbo, sheet metal) that I was toying wiht installing, but purchased a new motor instead.

[TibetanT]

Well, well, well...this surely sounds like a good engine to have. Euro 911SC's 3.0L engine did have more horsepower than the U.S. versions since they had no smog emission requirements.

The engine type is 930/06 as mentioned in the Ad and it appears the engine number does correspond.

IMHO, I would still purchase:
1) New distributor cap and rotor
2) New set of spark plugs
3) New wire set (since we don't know how old the current wires are)
Minimum!

Then set the valves and check the timing using Wayne's book, or Bentley. The Tech article section has write-up on how to do this stuff as well by some of the pros on this forum.

Optional components:
New fuel filter
New oil filter
Fuel accumulator and S-line may be needed as well.

Your "new" engine purchase has some of the required/recommended upgrades such as: Pressure-fed (Carrera) chain tensioners, pop-up valve and Turbo valve covers!

Only question I would ponder is if the lower head studs (exhaust-side) are Dilivar. If they are, replace them with steel head studs now while the engine is out.

[dhagood]

let me post a caveat here: i am no expert. i have had my car for over 17 years, and i do almost all of the maintenance. however, i don't know SCs, i don't know the mid-year cars, and i sure as hell am no grady clay or equivalent.

i've given you my assessment of the situation, and it is worth exactly what you paid for it

[tcar]

You seem to be doing this because your 2.7 has bad head studs.

You should know that many used 3.0's have the same issue. Famous for it. Be sure to check.

Good luck.