I'm interested. Having done a few kits, like the griffiths ac recently, you will need a STELLAR instruction set to make it really great. Looks great though, one less wonky thing to worry about.

I'm also very interested as this is one of the projects I had planned to tackle this winter.

sign me up for 3 please...great job here...if you can add the headlite relay as mentioned after my post here, that would be great...

I'm not convinced that soldering is required or advised. Though I may be incorrect, it's my understanding that the liquid solder will creep up the wire and later, after it cools will create an inflexible sort of stress point that will be susceptible to vibration damage. A good crimped connector with a short piece of heat shrink is more than adequate.

You won't find solder connections in the wiring of the Ferrari 458-GT race cars...only crimps. I expect it's the same in the other paddocks. Soldering is for non-moving connections that are firmly mounted on both sides of the connection.

Soldering wires........
 

I built the fuse panel in my car in 2004, 7 years ago. No problems so far. The only connectors that I soldered (and crimped) were the ones providing +12V from the battery. Since they are a larger gauge wire to begin with, they should be more resistant to vibration fatigue.

Funny, I did high end electronics for 6 years. Solder was the preferred method over crimping. Even with high end ratcheting crimp tools there is a chance that you will damage the core wire (once that is damaged, vibration will complete to break), also one end of the wire (the one that is inside of the crimped connector) is always exposed to atmosphere and the corrosion will creep up the wire and over time will create resistance. Like I said, it wasn't an attack on his work, just an observation.

just to further this digression - I agree with you - I'll add that we typically only crimp multi-stranded wire, not solid core (copper), unless it is for a thermocouple (TC) wire - since soldering it changes its characteristics. TC wire , all solid core for that matter, is subject to stress at the crimp as mentioned. The solder wicking is more prevalent in multi-strand. Crimping is a less expensive than soldering, and used if the conditions warrant. This convention is for aerospace and related ground equipment applications.

At least I'm not out of my mind then. Back in the late 90's I was the assistant engineer on a Busch Grand National team and I build a few BGNN cars and 2 Cup cars while at the shop. Seeing as I had a 12v background, I did all the wiring looms myself in house. Even if we used crimp connectors we would "pre-tin" the ends to help prevent a fatigue point on the wire where we crimped, it also would seal the end of the wire to prevent corrosion on the open end and then shrink tube the other side. Over kill for a street car maybe, but then again if you get stranded 100 miles from home.....

Yeah, there does seem to be the two camps that figure their way is best, and both have merit. I work in the telecommunications industry and use both methods for a variety of connections. Vibration seems to be the killer in cars, so I tend to lean towards crimp type connections. I guess it all comes down to personal bias - it's all Chevs and Fords...

I just want Fred to send me a message asking where I want him to send the panel and how much it'll cost me... :)

Questions, questions.......
 

Open reply to all with the question of cost. Right now it looks like I will have to charge about $200.00 per panel. I have to get the fuse holders from Europe with the associated shipping costs, cut out the mounting bracket and make the jumpers. The kit will include instructions, wiring info and the correct fuses and one extra fuse holder in case of a "awe s**t" moment. I'll even include the connectors that will plug onto the fuse holders. All you will need to add will be your time and a little heat shrink tubing.

Please be patient for a little while longer. I am in the middle of building a work shop and have to get that done before starting on the fuse panel construction. I had hoped to be done about a month ago, but have had some construction delays. The building is done, but I'm waiting on an estimate for the electrical work now. Should be done by the first of September or so.

Thanks,

Everything you just said Fred sounds good. The price is right along with the timeline.

Bill

Yep, sounds good Fred. Good luck on your shop. We all know that's the more important project anyway. :)

Just a point of information, current aircraft industry standard is to use crimp connections. Ninety-nine percent of the crimpers used are of the ratcheting type and are adjustable for the wire gauge. For what we use on our cars, we would probably just use a non-ratcheting non-adjustable for each gauge wire. As mentioned before, go slowly and pay attention to detail will be very important.

Fred- Count me in for one as well!

If these takers are in order, better get my name in! One please.

FWIW..... from Waytek wire and other places...you can get crimp connectors that have a built-in glue also. That way, you can crimp and apply heat ( like heat shrink)...and you also solve the insidious corrosion creep.

Might be the best compromnise for those arguing for / against soldering.

I want one too!

I want one for an early car (longhood) - should include headlight relays...

Patience, please.........
 

I'm almost moved into the new shop. Got one work bench to do some repair work on and lots of "stuff" to get in it's place. Will start on the first batch of fuse panels asap.

Thanks,