3.2 valve adjustment..

rtoms · 07-18-2011, 05:47 PM

well after reading alot of threads about the ease of doing it then reading other threads on the lost hope of doing it, I did it. Spread it out over a few days which resulted in less swearing, less frustration, and checking each adjustment multiple times (I still have faint clicking but I dont know how quiet it should be). My methoed was to use the .4 and follow with a .5 for no go. I didnt get the tool, I just used normal feeler gauges and bent them seemed to work fine for me. I used one ratched 13mm that is offset a little and one small snap on flathead. Switched to vr1 dyno and a new filter from the host. Man it felt good to stretch her legs once she built some tempeture. Anyways do you guys have any valve noise or should she be silent? Either way Im glad I did it myself and learned a few things about the p car.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Going to be doing my next couple of weeks, a friend is going to do his 87 and tutor me as well.

. I just need the right feel of the gauge pull.

I got the SST with the two prongs but do not have a clue on where to start. It should be fun. I also have the re-usable gaskets to boot

While I am in there I am going to attempt to re-torque my cylinder heads to the halves. Apparnetly #3 and #4 are leaking there.

rtoms · 07-18-2011, 06:19 PM

I also didnt have a clue where to start, it started to make more sense as I went on, I got the green gaskets from the host as well, the gaskets were super simple and my car already had turbo valve covers on it. Even if I have to pull it apart to readjust its fairly simple task now. With 101 projects and this forum anyone can pull it off.

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

I hope so, re-torqueing the heads are going to be scary Shiznet for me

, doing the 40-60-80% torque star technique, made the SST for it too

Canada Kev · 07-18-2011, 06:28 PM

I tried the reusable silicone gaskets and didn't like them. They sealed fine, but I

Canada Kev · 07-18-2011, 06:32 PM

I tried the reusable silicone gaskets and didn't like them. They sealed fine, but I prefer the green ones with the silicone bead on the exhaust side.

As well, I don't believe these engines will ever run silent. However, after my first one, the car seemed super quiet when I first fired it up. It was a good feeling for sure.

bkreigsr · 07-19-2011, 04:49 AM

How much of the ancilliary doo-dads did you have to remove to get to the valves?
I am assuming a/c compressor, maybe a/c mounting brackets and hardware, fresh air ducts, air cleaner, and related hoses?
How about bottom end? cat and O2 sensor, muffler?
What did you use to turn the motor over - fan belt tension plus factory tool, or a socket wrench on the crank?
I've done my 73 a bunch of times - but not yet on my 85. (I need to drop the motor to do the 930.)
thanks Bill K

Drisump · Drisump's Garage

On my 85, I took the AC compressor off and flipped it out of the way. I was changing out the fan belts and air filter anyway. I took anything that would be easy to take off ...off, there isn't much room to do a valve adjustment on a 3.2 with stock exhaust and heat exchangers.....and line of sight isn't great either. For me, there were a few adjusters that either I couldn't see or could only see with one eye (no depth perception). Anyway, I got the Pelican feeler and a few extra blades, some time, light and proceeded. No doubt the next time will be a little easier. To turn the motor you use a large socket on the fan nut and turn only clockwise, I found that the belt slipped when doing this so I removed all the washers from the fan belt tensioning set up ( had to set it up again after the adjustment)..... I learned later that J. Walker (in Seattle) pushes on the side of the belt while turning over, thereby tensioning it .....D'OH, why didn't I think of that? Cheers

Canada Kev · 07-19-2011, 06:22 AM

I have to remove the AC compressor and just move it out of the way and the heater blower duct. Everything else you can work around, even the factory heat exchangers and exhaust plumbing. Actually, for some reason, I seem to recall removing the air box/filter cover, but I change the filter at the same time I adjust valves, so it may not need to be moved, though I suspect access would be easier that way.

hcoles · 07-19-2011, 06:49 AM

"valve" noise may not completely go away, you might have one or more valve stems/guides that are worn, I've heard the noise described as a sewing machine when all is working well, if you have a distinct "ticking" noise likely something is not in spec. somewhere. I had this when I bought my car, drove it for 4 years and then redid the top end, we found a few valve guides way out of spec., sounds close to the sewing machine sound now. Only took 4 months and $$$, I didn't want to add it up. I did all the "while-you-are-in-there" tasks.