Replacing Wheel Studs

[testa-rossa]

So, I finally got myself a set of Fikse Fuch's replicas and there is one wheel where the PO had different size studs. So I just ordered the right size studs but I'm not sure how to remove them and replace them. It's on the right rear.

Can someone enlighten me?

Thanks

[DRACO A5OG]

You will need to dismantle the e-brake, take carefull notes especially the clips.

Scrafice an old lug, dremel off the top and place it on the stud and use a sledge to carefully tap it out, use some penetrating spray to help it along.

Once you are ready to install, use the same sacrificial lug to press the studs on, use antilock to lube the new studs threads to help it along.

Then reassemble e-brake and adjust it to 4 clicks at ebrake lever, no more than 6.

Jim

[skinnerd]

Recently been doing this.

You'll need to remove the big axle nut....mine's a 32mm.
I'm using 3/4" drive extension with a 4 ft breaker bar to get these nuts loose.
They are on very tight.

After that, the rear brake disc must be removed.
Release the parking brake before doing the above.

Then the stub axle that contains the studs must be pulled.
I used a pulley "puller" to do this.
My rear axle bearings remained behind, so I never had to do anything with them luckily.

Once the stub axle is out, I took mine to the bench, found a suitable deep well socket and used a "big" hammer to knock them out.
They are in there tight.
Afterwards I cleaned the holes for the new studs, used some red Loctite thread locker and hammered them back in.
They should go in very tight.
If loose, you may need a new stub axle.

Put everything back in reversing the above procedures.
I used the axle nut to pull the stub axle back into place.
Again a very tough nut to tighten back up.
Torque is up there in the 400 ft-lb range.
Mine's not coming off soon.

Search on this website and you'll see others that have done this and there explanations of the procedures and problems they've had.

It's not what I would call a "trivial" or easy job...and you may need to purchase or borrow some specific tools to accomplish this.
It is certainly do-able though.
Good luck.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by skinnerd

Recently been doing this.

You'll need to remove the big axle nut....mine's a 32mm.
I'm using 3/4" drive extension with a 4 ft breaker bar to get these nuts loose.
They are on very tight.

After that, the rear brake disc must be removed.
Release the parking brake before doing the above.

Then the stub axle that contains the studs must be pulled.
I used a pulley "puller" to do this.
My rear axle bearings remained behind, so I never had to do anything with them luckily.

Once the stub axle is out, I took mine to the bench, found a suitable deep well socket and used a "big" hammer to knock them out.
They are in there tight.
Afterwards I cleaned the holes for the new studs, used some red Loctite thread locker and hammered them back in.
They should go in very tight.
If loose, you may need a new stub axle.

Put everything back in reversing the above procedures.
I used the axle nut to pull the stub axle back into place.
Again a very tough nut to tighten back up.
Torque is up there in the 400 ft-lb range.
Mine's not coming off soon.

Search on this website and you'll see others that have done this and there explanations of the procedures and problems they've had.

It's not what I would call a "trivial" or easy job...and you may need to purchase or borrow some specific tools to accomplish this.
It is certainly do-able though.
Good luck.

For God's sake, don't do this procedure!!!
Absolutely no need to pull the stub axle, besides, when you pull the stub axles, the
rear wheel bearing inner race will come with it and then you need to replace your rear wheel bearings!!

Do like DRACO suggests. Get yourself a good solid steel hollow lugnut, spin it on the stud part way, then wail away with a small sledge hammer. The stud will back right out.
As Draco suggests, depending on how long the new stud is, you may have to remove the emergency brake stuff.
Then slide the new stud in from behind. Find a BIGGER nut than the stud or some type of spacer, slide it over the stud, then use the hollow lugnut to pull the stud into place!
Have done it numerous times, and it is basically painless!

EDIT: Of course you will need to remove the calipers and brake disks first and then proceed with the above procedure!

[JTL]

I just did this. The rear studs were easy to remove. Twist on one steel lug nut to protect the threads and then give it a couple of good blows with a hammer. Fronts well the hubs needs to come off and then carefully hammer old studs out and new studs in.

[theclaw]

I did something similar to what CraigD showed in his suspension build thread. The rears were a little tricky but you have to turn just so to angle th stud in there. I went with 66mm studs. To tighten them in I used a large 14mm nut and a larger dummy for spacing. Put some heavy washers in there to cushion things and barreled down on it with the impact driver to pull it in.

[safe]

Originally Posted by uwanna

for god's sake, don't do this procedure!!!
Absolutely no need to pull the stub axle, besides, when you pull the stub axles, the
rear wheel bearing inner race will come with it and then you need to replace your rear wheel bearings!!

Do like draco suggests. Get yourself a good solid steel hollow lugnut, spin it on the stud part way, then wail away with a small sledge hammer. The stud will back right out.
As draco suggests, depending on how long the new stud is, you may have to remove the emergency brake stuff.
Then slide the new stud in from behind. Find a bigger nut than the stud or some type of spacer, slide it over the stud, then use the hollow lugnut to pull the stud into place!
Have done it numerous times, and it is basically painless!

Edit: Of course you will need to remove the calipers and brake disks first and then proceed with the above procedure!

+1