Critique my project list?

[chococrazy]

Here's where I'm at right know it's a pretty much bone stock 89 Silver Anniversary edition. I was having trouble deciding between the anatamico and combat evo for the shift knob... any input?



911-351-946-00-M4 Front, Steel A Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit (sold per each), 911 (late 1975-89) $14.50 2 $29.00
911-352-905-00-M33 Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit (42mm ID seals), sold per each, 911 Carrera (1984-89) $14.00 2 $28.00
911-613-029-03-M100 Headlamp Switch, 911 (1965-89) $201.25 1 $201.25
911-618-154-00-M252 DME Relay (located under front driver seat), 911 (1984-89) $25.50 1 $25.50
914-632-107-00-OEM Defroster Lever Light Assembly, 911 (1974-89), 914 all, (bulb not included) $31.50 1 $31.50
900-631-132-90-M97 (2721) Light Bulb, 12V 1.2W (sold per each), Gauge and Instrument, Heater Control, Seat Belt Warning $1.00 1 $1.00
000-043-301-08-M60 CV Boot Kit (boot, flange, grease, circlip, and clamps) (4 per car, sold per each), 911 (1985 w/915.73 Trans - 86) 911 (1987-89), 928 (from Ch# 92FS860445 1985-On), 911 Turbo (1985-94), 964 Carrera 2 (1989-94) $10.25 4 $41.00
911-511-331-00-M117 Front Hood Shock, Heavy-Duty Version (sold per each), 911/912 (1965-89) $16.25 2 $32.50
C-512-331-02HD Weltmeister Heavy-Duty Rear Engine Lid Shock (sold per each), 911/912 (1965-89) $29.98 2 $59.96
MO-CTECHR Momo Combat Evo Shift Knob, Black/Chrome silver stitch, each $86.25 1 $86.25
PPE-A8040-64541-GOE Intake Manifold Gasket 4 $0.00
003481803-M44 Fuse Kit (Bullet Type) - (1) 2.5 Amp, (1) 5 Amp Yellow, (4) 8 Amp White, (3) 16 Amp Red, (1) 25 Amp Blue $6.75 2 $13.50
911-559-149-01-M100 Jack Hole Plug, 911 (1974-89) $6.75 1 $6.75
MO-KNO-ASBK1 Anatomico Short Gear Shift, Black Leather $52.50 1 $52.50

Total: $608.71

[steely]

I don't recognize the gasket(s) - you might consider getting the insulators too if you are doing the gaskets.

[chococrazy]

Oh the gaskets disregard those... They're for a 740il.
Are there any radio options? I'd prefer the stock look of one but I see the one w/ a gps is only for Europe? Any workaround?

[Grady Clay]

911-351-946-00-M4 Front, Steel A Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit (sold per each), 911 (late 1975-89) $14.50 2 $29.00
911-352-905-00-M33 Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit (42mm ID seals), sold per each, 911 Carrera (1984-89) $14.00 2 $28.00

This indicates you have a ‘sticking or leaking caliper’ symptom.
Repairing this is usually accompanied with:
Replacing the four rubber flex hoses to the calipers,
inspecting /replacing the pads,
inspecting the low-pad warning sensors,
inspecting/replacing the rotors,
re-greasing the front wheel bearings,
replacing the front bearing lip seals and O-rings,
cleaning & adjusting the parking brakes,
and (frequently)
replacing the master cylinder.
Of course, you need fresh brake fluid.

000-043-301-08-M60 CV Boot Kit (boot, flange, grease, circlip, and clamps) (4 per car, sold per each), 911 (1985 w/915.73 Trans - 86) 911 (1987-89), 928 (from Ch# 92FS860445 1985-On), 911 Turbo (1985-94), 964 Carrera 2 (1989-94) $10.25 4 $41.00

These also need new M10 CV joint bolts and new M10 Schnorr washers. (Do you have bolt-on outboard CV joints?)

While long, this is an important thread to completely study:
Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints



Some of the ‘while you are there’ things to anticipate:
Inspect the boots and joint condition of the steering and ball joints,
look for leaking (or ‘clunky’) shocks,
inspect for centering the suspension rubber (‘Flanblock’) connections,
inspect the transmission axle flange lip seals for leaking,
clean the transmission ground strap connections (or replace the strap),
clean & lube the transmission bell-crank throttle linkage,
inspect/replace the throttle cushion,
inspect condition/function of the heater control (‘flapper’) valves,

Oh yes – look for engine oil leaks.

Best,
Grady

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by chococrazy

... Total: $608.71

If you you go "in there" without doubling or tripling your budget, it will be a first

[jdbunda]

If you are doing the instrument bulbs and headlamp switch, the headlamp relay kit is probably indicated also.

[RWebb]

Replacing the four rubber flex hoses to the calipers is something to do every decade or so no matter what.

[chococrazy]

Wow seems like it's gonna be more than I thought, can I get links to the parts you guys are talking about? What brake fluid do you guys recommend also?
Also what size is that flex hose? I'm replacing the fuel line so I ordered some 3/8 from a local shop.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by chococrazy

Wow seems like it's gonna be more than I thought, can I get links to the parts you guys are talking about? What brake fluid do you guys recommend also?
Also what size is that flex hose? I'm replacing the fuel line so I ordered some 3/8 from a local shop.

Down the slippery road we go

[jdbunda]

The reason you probably want the headlamp relay kit is it takes the current load out of the switch circuit - resistance in there can cause dim headlights and instrument lights, and can even save the lives of your switches. The JWest kit our host sells:

Pelican Parts - Product Information: JWST-911-HLPR

Is simple and cheap. There are other ways of doing this that are perhaps "better" but require more wiring, etc. This one is a very easy install using existing wires.

[Joe Bob]

ATE Blue....that way when the fluid is completely thru you can tell by the color change. Next time use ATE Gold.....same reason.

Oil....read the "ultimate oil thread" for the reasons or just get Valvoline 20//5 Racing VR1. Forget the synthetic.

[chococrazy]

When I changed the oil in it I did a mix of 20/50 racing synthetic (4bottles) and 5 bottles of conventional 20/50 racing.

It's 21k miles but the car has been sitting for a number of years in a shop so I went through and checked the hosing and some of them are dry rotted fixing those know. I have a lathe so I'm just going to even out the discs. My mechanic just told me to give him a week with it to get make sure everything is tip top. He checked all the wiring and fixed the reason why the pump wasn't kicking on.

[Joe Bob]

Make sure he or you checks the "S" hose under the oil tank. DO NOT GET ANYTHING made by "URO".....they suck big green donkey dicks.

[chococrazy]

Is the 9 day wait worth it for the stainless brake hoses? Should I just go with the stock rubbers so I receive them with my other shipments...

[RWebb]

I prefer stock rubber hoses. The mesh hose surrounds prevent inspection of the hose integrity and provide little benefit.

[Grady Clay]

Originally Posted by chococrazy

Also what size is that flex hose? I'm replacing the fuel line so I ordered some 3/8 from a local shop.

Whoa – exactly what fuel hose are you considering?
Your fuel pressure is very high compared to what is possible acceptable for ‘local shop’ generic hose.
Be VERY careful here.
The fuel injection hose assemblies should be removed and either replaced as an assembly or be re-hosed (and tested) professionally.
This is not a ‘3/8” hose and screw clamp’ repair.


I agree about using OEM rubber brake hoses over the steel-braded covered aftermarket hoses.


Pelican jdbunda’s advice is ‘right on’ about the headlight relay kit protecting your (more expensive) headlight switch, turn signal switch and ignition switch.
You have the headlight switch on your list.
Are you sure the (more common and usually repairable) problem isn’t in the turn signal / hi-lo beam switch?
It is very desirable to add a fuse for your un-fused instrument lights.


‘Turning’ brake rotors is not for a home lathe.
That procedure is best done only on a ‘brake lathe’ where both sides are Blanchard ground simultaneously.
(For the front rotors, leave them attached to the hubs.)
If worn much or heat damaged, simply replace them.
If in spec, lightly cross-hatch sand both surfaces.


I won’t get into the oil debate. I use dino oil in my ‘old’ Porsches.


Keep in mind that all of these subjects have been extensively discussed in prior threads.
While time consuming, a through ‘search’ will provide much more detailed information and links than you will get here (a general question thread).

My mechanic just told me to give him a week with it to get make sure everything is tip top.

What is his experience?

Best,
Grady

[chococrazy]

I'm talking about the fuel hose connecting the fuel pump to the tank not the injectors it was marred up and cracking I got a high quality OEM comparable (not Porsche OEM) hose from a part supplier in town.
Alright I'll order the stock rubber hoses then good thing I get free shipping then too
Headlamp relay kit sounds like a good idea gonna add that to the order.

About the brake rotors
I have a mechanic's shop just me personally am not a mechanic just thinker. My current mechanic has experience in restoring a multitude of cars from 70's-. He's good and meticulous. The car's fuel pump originally wasn't turning on so he went through and checked all the wiring and within a day fixed the problem and took out the radio (which was an incorrectly wired aftermarket radio). I'll be turning the rotors on a brake specific lathe.


Do you guys know of any product that will flush out a muffler? It's currently off the car is it's apparently filled with oil/condensation. The cat seems clean though and the heat exchanger had nothing coming out from it.

[Grady Clay]

If your heat exchangers and catalytic converter are not oil contaminated, I suspect the muffler is okay.
What you see as ‘oil’ may be a mixture of condensation and soot.
Don’t be concerned about condensation, it will immediately evaporate.

I think your ’89 may have an ‘aluminized’ steel muffler.
Someone who knows can chime in.
If so, your usual choice is to run it and ‘burn out’ the oil (mosquito eradication project).
An ‘aluminized’ muffler (or heat exchangers) cannot be ‘tanked’ by a radiator shop. The solution will attack the aluminum.
Plain steel and stainless steel mufflers can be ‘tanked’.

There is available the exact correct color high temperature (rattle-can) paint for the exhaust pieces.
Keep in mind the dry paint is very soft (scratches easily when handling) until heat cured at very high temp and changes color slightly.

Best,
Grady

[chococrazy]

I just cleaned ran it without the muffler for a few minutes (I put a flex pipe to direct the smoke) it smoked for a few minutes then let out but the smoke was a little darker more of a blueish hue. When I deemed it clear enough I put the cleaned muffler back on (water flush) it originally blew out some blue hue for the first 10 minutes right now I have it running on the lift because a wheel is off due to a stuck caliper. I just realized the the oil level is a bit high will take car of that in a minute. Now it's spewing very little smoke and I think what is leaving the exhaust is just some excess oil.

Oh and these cars can get very...very... loud.

[chococrazy]

I got all my orders in today, and i was wondering is the Momo knob suppose to come with adapters for the shifter shafter? I got the Allen key, 3 screws, Knob, and instructions.