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Join Date: Oct 2009
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engine stand/yoke modifications?

I searched but am still unclear on the modifications required to get a standard engine stand to safely support a 911 motor. I would like to try to find some used gear---at least a used stand. Assuming I use a generic stand from Harbor Freight or similar, can I use the yoke sold on Pelican with no modifications? If I use a 5-point yoke from ebay or wherever, what modifications are required? BTW, I will probably split the case this go-round. Pictures would be helpful! Thanks.

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Old 09-26-2011, 04:27 PM
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I'm using the P201 stuck in a Harbor Freight stand. It is slightly smaller diameter but not enough to make a difference.
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:08 PM
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Used a generic stand with ebay yoke. Had to remove oil cooler to mount, otherwise it was ok.

Vince
Old 09-26-2011, 05:14 PM
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Just ordered e-bay 5 spoke yoke tonight. Have generic engine stand, guess I'll know later this week how well it works.
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:27 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Timmy2, please keep us posted.
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:16 AM
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Not all of the HF stands have the same size hole for the yoke.
Old 09-27-2011, 07:29 AM
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Dennis,

Keep me posted as i was thinking of ordering the 5 arm stand as well ...
I have to drop my engine to replace my clutch and considered getting the yoke for
the while i'm there stuff !
Let us know the O.D. of the yoke shaft.

They seem to be well rated in the VW community ...

Cheers !
Phil
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:56 AM
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Our host sells this one..
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-TOL-MCDENG
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:56 AM
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I "believe" engine stands (at least current vintage) are fairly generic. My Northern Tool stand's hole is an "oversize" 2.375" or about 61mm. The yoke that came with the stand (I didn't use it) is about 59mm dia. which is undersize. The "nice yoke" sold by our host that I did use is 60 mm dia, fits very nicely to the stand, better than the 59mm one that came with it. I definitely recommend it if you can stand the cost.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:15 AM
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I bought the P201 replica mount from Mainely Custom by Design off of Ebay. It came with a short section of pipe fitted to the P201 tool for the purpose of welding to a stand. I bought an engine stand (also off Ebay), and the upright post that holds the engine was removable (slipped over a stub welded to the stand base). The diameter of the engine stand's holder was much larger than the diameter of the P201 tool from Mainely Custom, so it wasn't useable. I put together a whole new upright piece for the P201 tool. I went to a metal supply shop and bought an appropriate length piece of square tube that fit over the stub on my stand, then took that square tube and the Mainley Custom fitted pipe to a welder and had him weld the two together. I did cost a little. The welder charged a little over $100, but my stand is now built specifically for the 911's engine. I'll post a pic tonight.

Brett

Last edited by Brett San diego; 09-27-2011 at 09:09 AM..
Old 09-27-2011, 09:02 AM
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I bought a HF stand (The one with legs in a U shape! dont buy a T kind!) and then I bought the mainly adapter. Worked awesome for my engine re-build. The only time I had any kind of issue was removing the flywheel bolts. I could not get my breaker bar with triple square socket on the flywheel bolts due to interference from the plate from the stand. I just put the triple square bit in the bolt head and used a long box end wrench on it. Worked fine.

See the Mainly adapter and plate at the flywheel end of my long block:


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Old 09-27-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neel View Post
Anyone have any beta/been there done that info on this? I bought one of these from the classifieds here and now need an engine stand to go with it. Hoping to find something off of Craig's List, as I'd rather spend the $$$ on new parts (like gaskets to stop der leakin") from our host.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euro911sc View Post
I bought a HF stand (The one with legs in a U shape! dont buy a T kind!)
Best advice I have heard in a while! Some folks in our club were moving an engine while on a T stand, and the legs kicked out. Luckily, the engine only grazed the one person's ankle. Any closer, and a hospital visit would be in order. They shoud not be allowed to sell them.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:46 AM
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The reason I have a 2 front leg style stand is so that my jack (with engine on it) will travel into the position that the tube of the 201 goes into the stand. This allows me to remove the engine from the car and get it up onto the stand without help. I know that working alone under the car is not the correct thing to do...but sometimes necessity...etc.
Bob
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:59 AM
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Impressive, Hawg. I thought we were good doing it with two people.

Question(not to hijack this thread): How do you get the engine high enough to fit the yoke in the stand? We always need two more folks to lift that last foot or so.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCM911 View Post
Impressive, Hawg. I thought we were good doing it with two people.

Question(not to hijack this thread): How do you get the engine high enough to fit the yoke in the stand? We always need two more folks to lift that last foot or so.
I use(d) an engine hoist and a 6' 8000lb rated "fiber" sling and shackle to lift my engine from the floor jack onto a very stout mobile cart I made. It's sitting on that until all my parts including the 5 spoke yoke adapter arrive.(hopefully by saturday)

Nice to have it at waist level while stripping parts and cleaning.

I will update/describe how the adapter works when it arrives. (After removing the fully dressed olds 400 engine that is on my stand now. If my stand will hold that behemouth, it'll hold the 3.0 no problem! )

P.S. I work alone so I do things very safely, I'm very frugal but a few bucks spent on the right tool for the job pays high dividends compared to health, body or equipment damage.
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Last edited by timmy2; 09-27-2011 at 08:22 PM..
Old 09-27-2011, 03:36 PM
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Here's a pic of my stand with the Mainely Custom P201 tool and collar welded to a separately purchased square tube fitted to my stand. Bonus pic of my engine rebuild in progress. As mentioned the upright tube is just slipped over a stub welded on the U-frame base, just like the original stand upright fits.

It's perfect. Very much worth having the P201 tool for this job.



Best case is that your stand has a collar ID that fits your P201 tool near perfectly. If not, then you have a little work to do. If your stand is not configured with a removable upright like mine was, then it's very much possible to just have a welder cut off the current collar and weld the P201 tool collar to the existing stand upright. Plenty of options.

Brett

Last edited by Brett San diego; 09-27-2011 at 07:33 PM..
Old 09-27-2011, 07:24 PM
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Here is a pic of the adapter our host sells, I have it mounted to a generic V8 stand I picked up at my local Carquest. Works great!! Sorry I don't have the pretty pics yet, still in disassemble and clean stages.






And for laughs.... warning not for weak stomachs....






Cheers
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCM911 View Post
Impressive, Hawg. I thought we were good doing it with two people.

Question(not to hijack this thread): How do you get the engine high enough to fit the yoke in the stand? We always need two more folks to lift that last foot or so.
I use a motorcycle jack with an adapter, two stage lift. First jack up the engine and support it, then shove the adaapter under it and lift again.



Cheers,
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1983 911 euro cab
Old 09-27-2011, 09:59 PM
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Yoke from E-bay showed up, fit is good, unit is well built. Fit right into my HF stand no problem. may do some mods to stand so it will lock in place as the HF one doesn't have multi positional locking bolt.

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Dennis
Euro 1978 SC Targa, SSI's, Dansk 2/1, PMO ITBs, Electric A/C
Need a New Wiring Harness? PM or e-mail me. Search for "harnesses" in the classifieds.
Old 10-01-2011, 07:38 PM
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