I need help: rear axle/hub issues

[zevenbergena]

Hello everyone,
driving up to a temporary duty station in Norfolk, VA yesterday I had an issue with my passenger side axle. Found 4 bolts completely out and 2 were sheared off on the wheel side of the axle. They were installed about a year ago, looks like there wasn't any threadlocker on and they just backed out. Instead of finding an easyout and messing with getting that stuff done to the bolts that sheared out (pretty close to the backside of the wheel), I was thinking about just replacing the entire (hub?) assembly/piece that was affected. I was trying to look at drawings and figure out what the part would be but the only thing that I can see that makes any sense is the wheel spacer, but I can't tell from any of the pictures if that is the part that the axle and spline actually bolt into and I seriously doubt it. I'd get under the car and take it apart but I'm on and off the boat all week and won't be able to work on it for several weeks.
Does anyone have any experience or recommendations?
TIA
Aaron

[Oh Haha]

I can't help but I'll bump this to the top.

Thanks for your service, too!

[DaveE]

Are you talking about part # 13? The inner hub flange?

[ivangene]

I just finished replacing my hub - (item 11, because of year of car)

that thing is $700!!!
I recommend seeing what is really wrong and fixing what can be fixed and replacing what has to be replaced....scary you are missing bolts, I think I will go re-torque mine right now

Locktight? I dont think so...anyone confirm the thread locker?

[Todd Simpson]

It's a long thread, but you need to go here for a full discussion of CV joints, bolts, gaskets, etc.

Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints

Now, I have a question. Does anyone know the OD of the splned portion of #13?

If you have one around please measure for me, thanks!

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by ivangene

I just finished replacing my hub - (item 11, because of year of car)

that thing is $700!!!
I recommend seeing what is really wrong and fixing what can be fixed and replacing what has to be replaced....scary you are missing bolts, I think I will go re-torque mine right now

Locktight? I dont think so...anyone confirm the thread locker?

I believe they are interference fit thds on one end of the stud, and std course thds on the wheel nut side of the stud. Interference fit thds are a tad bit shallow on thd depth in order to provide the grip necessary to prevent backing out of the hub. I dont believe thd lock compound would suffice if the thd's were std course along the length of the stud.
My $.02

[ivangene]

well I dont have those type of axles but I have never seen anyone use locktight which is why I wondered myself...my guess is less along the lines of an inceficient threaded hole length and mor along the lines of a boolt that has a built in locking mechanism like being crushed in a maching to flatten out a small length of threads to a calculated size... herd to believe they would rely on thread depth of a hole as a locking mechanism

but I really dont know...its just the mecahnical side of me that trys to figure out what the cheapest way to accomplish the goal would have been for the MFG

think about the locking nuts...they are regular nuts that were hit by a mchine that deformed the nut in a specific area so it locks on...and they are one time use because the locking mechanism becomes less and less each use...

again, no basis for this, just me thinking

[will hung]

It's sort of common knowledge that you will need to re-torque CV joint bolts to prevent them from backing out. Not knocking you. I tried schnorr washers and moon plates from Audi to hold the CV Joint bolts in better, but I still needed to re-torque them after about 200 miles.

Having said that, for your quick fix, you'll need to replace the axle and #13 (commonly called a Stub Axle) in the above drawing. If you pull the rear wheel, you'll see the big cadmium plated nut holding it in place. They are held on with like 242 ft-lb of torque, so it takes a lot to break that nut loose. Once you do, you can pull the axle and stub axle through the hub, unbolt it from the gearbox flanges and remove the entire axle.

Pelican parts sells complete axles for reasonable money. You can buy one and with your old axle, you'll have a spare CV joint. I searched Ebay for "911 Stub axle) and found a pair for $50. You can check car-part.com also for stub axles.

Good luck with fixing your problem.

[ivangene]

just for fun....

can the stub axle be removed without replacing the bearing....on the other version (TOP) its very very difficult if not impossible

[john walker's workshop]

the broken bits are often loose enough to turn out with a pointed tool and fingers.

[will hung]

Originally Posted by ivangene

just for fun....

can the stub axle be removed without replacing the bearing....on the other version (TOP) its very very difficult if not impossible

Yes. On an '80 like the original poster's car, the stub axle is splined and fits through the inside of the hub. So you can pull it in and out of the hub without damaging the wheel bearing.