my submission for "CIS/Running problem" of the day

[sobamaflyer]

To clarify:

I did take off the diaphragm in the inside, I was able to (finally) blow a limited amount of air UP through the intake. After putting it back together I did now get air coming out of the intake when blowing in the outlet line (opposed to positively nothing when I started).

I held the theory it was FUBAR, how much worse could I kill it by taking apart as far as possible?

At what point do I start pondering getting rid of all the warm up equipment and using that pretty little red lever between my seats?

[Joe Bob]

There are rebuilt WURs available.....RarelyL8.

[Bob Kontak]

Red lever is for warming up your feet, I believe.

You need the WUR - don't even think otherwise. Do you know if your 3.0 engine is a euro spec engine? I have a WUR that may be the correct one for your car. I can put it on my car and test the pressure specs. Not optimal given mine is old but it will do better than the one you have.

I think Joe Bob's suggestion is spot on. Given the prices of new and commercially rebuilt, I would consider alternatives if on a budget. RarelyL8 may rebuild the one you have.

This will brighten your day considering the gunk in the WUR:

CIS fuel distributer cleanout w/pics

[ossiblue]

Originally Posted by sobamaflyer

To clarify:

I did take off the diaphragm in the inside, I was able to (finally) blow a limited amount of air UP through the intake. After putting it back together I did now get air coming out of the intake when blowing in the outlet line (opposed to positively nothing when I started).

I held the theory it was FUBAR, how much worse could I kill it by taking apart as far as possible?

At what point do I start pondering getting rid of all the warm up equipment and using that pretty little red lever between my seats?

Now might be a good time to post a picture of your engine, being it's a 3.0 in a 75. The reason being, the 75 does have the red lever for cold starts, but it is only hooked up to the accelerator cable. It will do you no good for your high fuel pressure problem nor with cold starts if it has been disconnected either at the cable or the micro-switch (which is probably not there anymore.) You likely have the later "automatic" warming system wired in--AAV, and AAR.

Back to your WUR. Bob has a good point about which WUR you have. Post the numbers when you can. From your description, it sounds like you may have cleaned out the port fairly well--if you disassembled the diaphragm and cleaned the two small port holes. The fact you still have high pressure can be due to damage to the diaphragms, debris still clogging a port, an out of adjustment WUR, or a block in the line back to the gas tank (BTW, have you tried to blow into the return line to see if it is clear back to the tank?) Easiest task is to check the return line.

The WUR is a simple device with the major problem being with the electrical heating element rather than the mechanical function of the diaphragm. I wouldn't give up on it yet. Double check that you reassembled the WUR correctly--especially the pin that goes into the hole at the base of the diaphragm housing. It is not difficult to reset the WUR to spec, now that you have a fuel gauge set. If you are willing to reset your WUR, let us know as there are several threads on how it's done.

[sobamaflyer]

Bob/Ossi

-I don't believe the throttle lever is hooked to anything right this minute (yes, Ossi is right, '75 that originally used it with a transplanted engine that doesn't) I think this transplant was wired in fully (I seem to remember testing at one point that I had power going to the AAR or AAV (whichever is sitting above #5) Sadly I can't speak to the origin or proper matching of much of my car.

-Tomorrow I'll take a few shots of the engine and it's numbers and post them. Here is one from last week zoomed closer if you are able to determine anything from it:



Here is a shot I took earlier when I had the WUR out, if you can't read enough of the #s I'll get a better one tomorrow.

I will take whatever instruction and advice given before giving into the +$250 rebuilt option. I will check the return line tomorrow (just see if air will pass freely?) and will take the WUR back out and double check anything (I was as careful as possible reassembling back with the little pin in the divit and springs back under the cap).

......I feel like I'm on the precipice of a very slippery slope here, I've lived with this car and it's eccentricities for a year and a half and I thought it ran fairly well, but want it [at least closer to] right. My fuel distributor has a very slight seep in the split, I bet if I open it up it looks as bad as that thread Bob posted (or as bad as my gunked up WUR). Am I about to tear into a series of components that lead me to tear into more components till I write my own "Gold Plated Porsche" book?

[sobamaflyer]

Engine Photos/Numbers as requested:












Please excuse the nasty appearance of my engine compartment, I've only given it superficial cleaning until I have to drop the engine and do it all right.

[sobamaflyer]

It would seem the return line is blocked, can't seem to blow air through it a bit.

OK, so my diagram seems it's going back to the FD? (can't quite trace it back there at the moment)

[ossiblue]

Originally Posted by sobamaflyer

It would seem the return line is blocked, can't seem to blow air through it a bit.

OK, so my diagram seems it's going back to the FD? (can't quite trace it back there at the moment)

The return line has a connection to the FD from the pressure relief valve, and a "T" connection for the line from the WUR. If you are trying to blow air from the WUR line, it should go back into the tank, regardless of the FD.

Since you cannot blow air through, first try to remove the return line going to the tank from the "T" connector itself, so you have only a rubber line to blow air through. Try again and if air goes through, you know the blockage is in the "T" connector. If air doesn't go through, you know the blockage is either in the hose, the line in the tunnel of the car, or the inlet port of the tank.

Gunk in the WUR likely means gunk elswhere so you may need to trace down several places. Again, don't get frustrated. You've already found the cause of your high pressure problem--a blocked return line--that's a biggie right there. Now it's a matter of following the line to uncover where the blockage is. If you need help on how or where to check the return line, post here and someone will chime in.

You're moving on!

[sobamaflyer]

Originally Posted by ossiblue

Again, don't get frustrated. You've already found the cause of your high pressure problem--a blocked return line--that's a biggie right there.

Nope, not frustrated a bit, learning something and at least moving forward

Thanks for the help, I'll report back

[sobamaflyer]

As may be obvious my time to myself for tinkering is in short supply lately with some long work hours, a 3 year old maniac and a wife that likes some attention too.

I spent a little while trying to disassemble the "T" back from the WUR, trying to see if I could blow air forward to the tank. No luck at that so far so I'm still stuck with no clear answer as to just where my blockage is, I'll keep working on it.

....I decided to re-assemble my fuel lines so I could at least drive it once this week as I have for quite a while and when I took off the pressure gauge I found this:



Does that mean what I think it means? Looks like rust to me, a tank removal and rehab in my future or???

[paj]

my 911 had been sitting for four years and i had blockage at the return line in the fuel tank. I took weed eater plastic line and cleaned it out with it. it was easy to push it through.

[sobamaflyer]

Thanks, that's a good idea. I've been procrastinating further diagnosing that plugged line as I feel like I'm about to take the tank out and find all sorts of things which will have the car sitting dormant in the garage for several weeks (maybe less with a little time off at the holidays.

[Bob Kontak]

The weed whacker line is a good idea. You can pull the plug/filter out of the bottom of the tank to give yourself an idea if you have to pull the tank for cleaning.

21 gallon tank - and I bet it's near full.

[sobamaflyer]

I'm trying to run it low without konking out 2 miles from home (again)

...21 gal really? I swear I've never put more than 15 in and learned the hard way last year that a reading of <1/4 tank does not really mean 1/4 tank and that little light does work and ain't kidding.

[Bob Kontak]

Looks like the standard tank is about 16.38 US gallons and when the "G Program" car came out - Using my fingers to count through the years that makes 1977 - I think - there was an 80 liter 21.14 US gal tank fitted. In the early 70's the S had a tank that was nearly 30 gallons.

The low fuel light gives me about 40 miles. I think it is supposed to be about a gallon and a half reserve. Your owners manual will say.

[sobamaflyer]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Your owners manual will say.

HA! If I had one of those it might tell me what those confusing levers beside my steering wheel [are supposed to] do.

"16.38 gal" That makes much more sense to my experiences thus far.

funny story: Last year I noticed out of the corner of my eye that little light just starting to flicker as I pulled into my neighborhood, thought "huh, add one to the small list of "is working"". I quickly forgot that and a few days later went to show off my car to my visiting father. She coughed a bit under a full throttle pull on the way out of the neighborhood, coming back from a 3 mile quick trip she died at a light. 1/4 of a mile away from the house dies and wouldn't restart...Dad looks over says "Son, are you out of gas?" Doh! I'll not soon live that one down.

(I haven't actually seen that light since just for the record)