confused about shift bushings install

[ramonesfreak]

Im about to buy the bushings to improve my shifting per wayne's 101 projects book, project 37.

I am confused about something. The book indicates that replacing the two bushings in the coupler is difficult because the center pin needs to be pressed out.

I believe the following part is the bushing for the coupler that the book is talking about.

99-1758-424-M230
Kit PEL-BUSHKIT1N: Shift Coupler Bushings, pair, 911/912 (1965-86), 914 (1973-76)

When I read the reviews in the parts section, those that bought the bushings mentioned that replacement is easy...

So, what do i need to complete project 37....I cant get to a machine shop to have the center pin pressed out.

The other two parts I was going to order are the following:

914-424-224-00-M260
Kit PEL-BUSHKIT1N: Shift Rod Bushing in Tunnel Behind Shifter, 911/912 (1969-86), 911 Turbo (1976-88), 914-4 (1970-72)

911-424-139-00-M260
Kit PEL-BUSHKIT1N: Ball Cup Shift Bushing at base of shift lever, 911/912 (1965-86), 911 Turbo (1976-88), 914 (1970-72), Rear Ball Cup Bushing 914 (1973-76)

[Jared at Pelican Parts]

You need at least a bench vise.

The idea is to drive out the center pin while in the vise with a socket the same diameter into a receiving socket on the other side. If the bushings are not inside the coupler anymore, secure the ears of the coupler before pressing them in the vice. It can be a pain to do and I've broken the ears off of more than one shift coupler trying to do it.

It helps to soak the coupler in Kroil as well..

Make sure you mark the location of the coupler on the gearshift shaft before rmeoving it.

[Peter Zimmermann]

The first thing that you should consider is removing the metal panel over the coupler. When you have access to the coupler check your bushings; are they crumbling, cracked, or in pretty good condition? They will have a small amount of play, but both bushings should be intact, and free of cracks.

Replacement is not simple, but it's a good Saturday afternoon project. To remove the center pin it's helpful to have a good, strong vise. Spread the jaws just enough to allow the pin to pass between them, and have an assistant (this might cost you a beer - or three) hold the coupler so the pin is vertical and the coupler is seated against the vise jaws. Use a good, substantial, pin punch and heavy hammer to drive out the pin.

No vise? Find a two inch length of thick-walled pipe (Jared's thought about a socket is an excellent solution, but it will have to be one that's bigger than what's included with typical socket sets) that is about the same diameter as the aluminum housing of the coupler. Hold the coupler, with the center pin vertical, against the end of the pipe and drive the pin out (it will fall into the pipe). PVC is usually not strong enough for this operation.

I don't know how good you are with tools, so if you damage the coupler don't blame me! I've done a couple hundred of them (using a big vise) and haven't broken one yet. Good luck with it, post bushing condition and then we can talk about the bushings at the shift tower.

[ramonesfreak]

Thanks! so it appears its not so simple to replace the coupler bushings. perhaps ill wait till winter to tackle that part and if i break it, ill get a new coupler

[ramonesfreak]

thanks peter.

since the bushings in the coupler appear to be inside the coupler, are they really that visible for inspection?

i see the shift rod bushing should be easy to see

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by ramonesfreak

thanks peter.

since the bushings in the coupler appear to be inside the coupler, are they really that visible for inspection?

i see the shift rod bushing should be easy to see

Yes, they are very easy to see. If the coupler is covered with a rubber boot simply pull it back to access the coupler. The bushings face to the right and left, sometimes a dentists mirror and flashlight can help with the inspection.

[bfunke]

Sometimes the pin can be easily pressed out of coupler, sometimes not. It's an easy job to remove it from the car. I'd give it a try and if you break the coupler no big deal because you can still buy the OEM coupler. I'd also get the 914 bushings as they are round not oval and have less slop than the 911/912 bushings. The trickiest part is adjusting your shifter when you reinstall. The pin bolt goes into the hole on the tranny shaft and is safety wired. Adjustments are made at the splined end by loosening the clamp and moving the coupler on the shifter shaft. Drop me a line if you need help.

[ramonesfreak]

ok thanks guys. ill take the cover off and look this weekend.

as for the 914 bushings, oh well. i already ordered the 911 ones. if i can get pin out, ill have confidence to change the bushings again if i dont like the 911 bushings

[tgage]

I just did the job last weekend and found it to be very easy using a small two pronged puller. You can't drive it out by hammering it, but you can use a vice to push it out. I was disappointed that the plastic replacement parts still had lateral wiggle ( but no vertical wiggle). I put a little more shim in it to firm it up. Before removing the coupler, mark the location on the shaft with paint or a silver sharpie. My puller is over fifty years old, but the one at hf should work fine. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html


When a adjusting after fixing the coupler, use a bungie cord tied to the drivers door handle and the shift knob while forcing the coupler in the opposite direction towards the passenger (shifter is on first side). This preloads the coupler. Then tighten. The amount of throw should be equal between first and second, and if not, readjust. If you have trouble getting it into a gear, chances are the throw is not long enough.

Chances are that if your shifting does not improve and you still have slop, then either the coupler under the shift knob is bad or the plastic supporting ring for the shaft is bad. Either of these requires removing the center console and carpet. I did the entire job in about an hour and a half.

[ramonesfreak]

great. so can you guess my next question?





do you have a link to the two pronged puller you used?

[Kidasters]

I tried to pound the pin out to replace my bushings (I don't have a big enough vise). That didn't work. So - I bought a stock coupler that had pretty new nylon bushings. Now, I have the Wevo coupler.

[tgage]

Mine is at least fifty years old! But I suspect the ones from hf would work

3 Piece Two-Jaw Puller Set

Tom

[dicklague]

get the Wevo coupler and do it right

[DRACO A5OG]

Or send your coupler to Ivangene here on the board and get a Derlin one. I love mine!

[Winter]

There is an excellent write up on this in the tech section. I'm on my phone or i'd post the link. It's easy to use a vise to punch out the pin. Good luck.

[ramonesfreak]

thanks for the link to the puller, tgage

[rockyou]

Found this video, should be helpfil:
coupler bushing replacement 101 - YouTube

[B0XER]

Not sure if any of this helps you

Introduction and centre console removal question

However the Porsche workshop I took my coupler too simply smacked the pin out with a small drift. Clamped the square edge of the spline shaft in a vice very tightly then one hit and the pin pooed through. DONT clamp it on the splines nor by the aluminium coupler itself

[ivangene]

HI!!

thanks for posting a link to my video..PM me if you are interested in a very good upgrade to your stock/new or used coupler......

I have a couple ready to ship on exchange basis or can send you the bushings

[ivangene]

I read a couple posts about holding the coupler (from very respectable members) and would like to disagree....

the pin is pressed into the center (steel) shaft ONLY..that means you should hold onto the center shaft ONLY and not hold onto the aluminum AT ALL - i have rebuild about 40 of these in the last few months and have yet to hold onto one by the aluminum AND have not broke any....

watch that video carefully....i didnt just "accidently" do it that way