rear flywheel seal removal, stuck

[BrokeMyCar]

Hi folks,

I'm stuck on the rear seal - I can't get the old one out. At this point I've:

-tried leveraging one screwdriver perpendicular to another one
-drilled two holes and put in screws, then alternated pulling wit a wrench

Any other tricks I should try? What about just drilling holes until it falls apart? There must be a better way.

Babak

[Flat6pac]

get a longer screwdriver..really long
Bruce

[Walt Fricke]

Your local generic autoparts store may have a seal removal tool. Looks kind of like a small medieval weapon - a handle with a hooked cross piece on the end. The hook you get under the steel shell of the seal, and using the handle you can pry. Pretty good leverage.

You don't want to score the case sealing surface, so you must be careful whatever method you use.

[vulcan300]

Drill another hole and screw in a large sheet metal screw. Then clamp a pair of vice grips on the end of the screw. While holding the vice grips place the tip of a long crow bar under the end of the vice grips and use leverage to pry the seal out. Slow steady pressure is key. Just keep increasing pressure until the seal slides free. Make sure the hole you drill is just big enough the accept the screw. If it is too big the screw will just pull out.

J

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Your local generic autoparts store may have a seal removal tool. Looks kind of like a small medieval weapon - a handle with a hooked cross piece on the end. The hook you get under the steel shell of the seal, and using the handle you can pry. Pretty good leverage.

You don't want to score the case sealing surface, so you must be careful whatever method you use.

Babak,

The tool looks like these.



Tony

[schumicat]

I used needle nose pliers to pull the seal apart, after the screwdriver method gave a little bit to grab onto.

[shrtshck]

It is tougher than it looks, I struggled for a while last year when I changed mine.
I drilled a hole and inserted a bent nail (spike), clamped onto the nail with vise grips and pry against anything you have handy.
As noted avoid beating on the inside and outside surfaces, don't want to mar the working surfaces for the new seal.

[BrokeMyCar]

These are great suggestions! I'll look for the tool, and try the techniques through the week and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Banak

[DRACO A5OG]

HB has one for $8 works great.

[BrokeMyCar]

I'm looking at this puller right now:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

I'll let you know how it goes!

Babak

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by BrokeMyCar

These are great suggestions! I'll look for the tool, and try the techniques through the week and let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Banak

Find the notch in the crankcase at the outside of the seal (it's about 10mm wide and less than half that deep). Find a flat-blade screwdriver that fits the notch, and with a hammer drive the screwdriver, inserted into the notch, against the seal. The force will collapse the seal, and you can stick the screwdriver blade into the gap where the seal collapsed. Use the screwdriver like a lever and the seal will pop out.

FYI; use a Burr-Quick, or similar, tool to bevel the entry edge of the seal orifice before you install the new seal; this will prevent the case from tearing the new seal.

[Jim Sims]

in below link note slide hammer rig/vise grip rig to be used with screw insertion approach - no scarring of case.


flywheel/rear seal removal ...help.

[BrokeMyCar]

I started with the tool, and the clip at the end broke off. Fortunately it came with a replacement. I punched in the old seal at the notch per Peter's advice, and then used the replacement part with that tool to pull it out. Thanks for the help and advice! Now I'm working on getting a new one back in, about to try putting it in the oven at 250 for a while.

Thank,

Babak

[vulcan300]

You shouldn't need to put anything in the oven to install the new seal. It isn't a super tight press fit like a bearing. Deburr the leading edge of the opening if necessary as Peter suggests. Then hold the seal flush and level in the opening and begin tapping alternating edges with a hammer. Once the seal is holding tight in the opening you can use a ratchet extension as a drift and tap alternating points on the seal to drive it into place. A little Curil-T on the outside of the seal will help to ensure that no oil leaks happen in future.

[tobluforu]

You put the seal in the freezer, not the oven.