Is there harm in using Teflon GOLD tape on Brake Bleeder Valves?

[intakexhaust]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

As per speed bleeder's website: Speed Bleeder Features

The pre-applied thread sealant also displaces air and moisture during thread engagement preventing rust...which usually results in rounded off corners on the hex or busted off bleeder screws making it necessary to replace the caliper or brake cylinder. The application of thread sealant thus makes it easy to loosen or remove the bleeder screw at any time

Just checked the website - very cool and have never heard about them. Thanks for the link. Scott

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, I will try it out and post pics of before with leak and after with out leak. I will insure non of the tape is inside the caliper, just the threaded portion. I will use the old valves as a guide to place the tape on my newly order valves.

over,

[kidrock]

good luck brother, keep us posted on the results.

[brads911sc]

what about some Curtil T? it seals and stays pliable?

[DRACO A5OG]

I'm going to take a piece of Teflon and place it in a jar of brake fluid and see if it breaks down.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I'm going to take a piece of Teflon and place it in a jar of brake fluid and see if it breaks down.

Try it but I would bet it won't break down.

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

what about some Curtil T? it seals and stays pliable?

It's probably to thin to resist the pressure of the brake fluid so it would get pushed out.

Otherwise a good idea.

[DRACO A5OG]

Update:

24 hours later in brake fluid: No deterioration



Placed two layers of Teflon on the valves, absolutely no leaks and I turned the valve open a complete 360 from closed position. In the past, anything past 90 degree rotartion (1/4 turn) would leak from the thread.

I tested it by use the one man pump bleed technique: ( I figured this will give the maximum pressure at the valves and thread, no? )

I connected a long clear 5' hose to the valve, filled it with clean fluid and placed the catch jar on top of a trash bin way above the caliper and pumped away with the valve open untill I saw the fluid clear of air bubbles.

I tried this technique without Teflon on my son's car and it was leaking at the threads, that is when I placed Teflon out of desperation

Well, it worked like a charm and so much easier then anything I tried, even the Reverse Bleeder Technique. Seriously so very easy, no closing the valve on the pedal travel up. Apparently the location of the Jar above the calipers allow the fluid to flow to the bottom to the valves and forces air up to the jar. No way is air going to flow down a 45 degree incline

Just a Note, the reason I am on this bloody bleeding crusade is I mistakenly according to a guru rebuilt both front and back calipers at the same time. Apparently you want to do one side at a time and several hundred miles in between to allow the first to seat in. The joys of DIY

Jim

[ratpiper71T]

If this 'gold' tape is anything like normal Teflon tape and I honestly don't know if it is,-wouldn't it shred pretty bad after tightening then loosening it- this is my experience with the normal tape at least...guess if it works, really doesn't matter in the long run, but perhaps there's a definite limit to the number of times you can tighten and loosen it without total failure of the tape to seal the threads.

[jrolstin]

I have worked as a car mechanic on GT3 cup cars for 5 years and for all of those years I was always told never to use teflon tape in a brake system. Ever. Brake fluid will eat the tape over a period of time and you will develop leaks. 24hrs no problem, but you are adding material to the bleeder screw and it is not fully seating thus brake fluid will be in contact with the tape. Over a period of time it will eat it, and you will have a worse leak than when you started.

If you have leaks without tape that one of your parts is not working properly. Get new bleeder screws, or your calipers are too worn from people over torqing the bleeder screws in the past.

My 2 cents.

[DRACO A5OG]

Interesting, Well I do have new bleeder valves, so I may be inclined to switch the old ones out.

Thanks for you input gentlemen.

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, now I know why it will not deteriorate in the fluid:



Apparently it is designed for petrolium products

Now the heat question, should I bake it to see???

[WANNA930]

I would use a Loctite or Permatex product and not something that wasn't designed for brake sealants.

I am still lost why your project would be having an issue that every car ever made or raced doesn't have? Thread sealant also might effect the torque of the bleeder itself so if it does break down it could cause a loose bleeder.

Sorry but again why? Permatex has products to be used. Thread sealant isn't to be used on brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

All that effort and you could have just bleed the brakes and not used a questionable product. Now go one and bash me and hey be the one person who has to say I told you so and be the ONE person who has gas thread sealant on their brake nipples. Do me a favor and carry that test with you when everybody asks so you can prove your story.

Funny they will walk away saying, why ?It is your brakes and if i am in front of you with my kids I don't want to be a test bed for your inventions.

PERMATEX 56521 READ THE TDS.

[DRACO A5OG]

Good points Wanna930, I will look into the thread sealant, however, I do not need to seal when it is closed only when I bleed. Two of my cars leak at the thread only when I bleed/flush, turning the bleeder valve 1/4 turn to open position.

Again, It does not leak when closed.

Logic dictates if it leaks at 1/4 turn to open the bleeder valve it will also allow air to get in. Am I mistaken here?

I recall when using my vacuum bleeder, a whole bunch of bubbles were coming out of a caliper that was never opened prior to vacuuming.

[Brad394]

I would say - NO - this product is designed for pipe fitting applications. In all my years working of cars ( and a quite a few as a profession ) teflon tape, loctite ( blue or any other color ) is not used or required. This seem to be a new trend here - should I loctite this or that or use anit-seize here and there. Now it is teflon tape - Remember if it is not there from the factory ( and I am not talking Porsche only ) it is not required. The use of proper tools and torque spec, and a good manual is more important.

- I am all for working on your own stuff but ...

B

[DRACO A5OG]

I thank you sir.

I am wondering, how to stop the bleeder valve at 1/4 turn from airating the fluid on vacuum.

Air is coming from some where, is it not?

But I agree, I don't really want to use Teflon but I think it is better that placing grease or wet sealant on the threads to help prevent the air from getting in.

I am going to test yours and others threory and place clean new bleeder valves from the factory to see if that will cure the airation of the fluid on vacuum.

[ratpiper71T]

Draco, do you have this problem when not using the vacuum bleeder-using the two person method?

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by ratpiper71T

Draco, do you have this problem when not using the vacuum bleeder-using the two person method?

Yes, even on two man pump party, only when I crack the bleeder valves open 1/4 turn, anything less and it will not flow.