Rebuilt top end only or complete overhaul? - Page 2

Tippy · 12-28-2011, 10:56 PM

I replaced mains and rods but they were in spec - mileage unknown. IMS bearings have to be replaced 100%, another reason to do the low-end too. Yes, I reconditioned rods because that's required with new rod bolts 100% also. I did not machine cylinder to case flange. 8 hours is about right.

El_Mecanico · 01-08-2012, 03:44 PM

How about chain and sprockets? I figured once splitting the case it would cost me another 2k. That's including cylinder studs. Do I need to renew the lower studs even though no issues at this point? Now here is a good question. If the heads only last 100k would it not make sense to complete a top end only and a complete rebuild at 200k?

El_Mecanico · 01-10-2012, 06:39 PM

I removed all the cylinders and pistons and they look in great shape. I also removed #6 con-rod and the bearings look new however I noticed the bearing for the piston pin is discolored. Is this normal? should I proceed to split the case?

El_Mecanico · 01-11-2012, 06:53 PM

Well I went ahead and split the case and removed the lower cylinder studs. I did find three main bearings with some wear and the intermediate shaft bearings as expected. What caused it?

El_Mecanico · 01-16-2012, 06:41 PM

Gosh...well I guess consensus's were 50/50...split the case or not. After splitting the case I came to the conclusion that it would had been better off not to. And the reason is cost. Although my conscience says go forward. What a PITA!!! I went ahead and cleaned it up nicely I will sink more mo money into this car. I come to the conclusion after all this work I should had bought a 2003 4s. It would had been cheaper. Luckily most of the work is performed by me. We are mostly likely in the same boat and that's why PP forum just keeps growing...lol

Andy

Reiver · 01-16-2012, 07:02 PM

Your 'internals' look great for that mileage. I suspect your oil pressure was also excellent prior to rebuild even tho you had the top end issue.
I've 217K miles on an unopened 3.0 and my oil pressure is like new spec wise. All of that bearing surface really does the job.
Great pics btw.

Pazuzu · 01-17-2012, 06:49 AM

I just finished this, the engine should go back in this weekend. 150K or so, I've been daily driving it for 4 years.

I had 4 broken studs. One ended up needing the help of a machine shop, since it broke flush.

I had ZERO machining done. Why bother? Everything was clean, and if one was willing to not crack the case, then it's not being machined anyways! Unless you have gouges or something, I wouldn't bother. That's me, there's some here who won't talk to me now because of that.

I split the case, replaced all bearings, the t-chains, all sprockets and guides, and the rod bolts (stock replacements). That and a tube of case sealant was the only extra expense as far as I was concerned. All of my bearings except for the intermediate shaft ones were 100 perfect, no scoring, scratches or wear. The IM shaft ones were worn, of course. the chain sprockets looked good, but clearly had wear compared to new ones. I did not replace the #8 bearing. Honestly, I could have put those bearings back in, they were that clean.

So, for how much more to crack the case?
About $650. From our host. I bet you could scrounge around and cut $150 off that.
In return, I know that I'll never have to crack it open again (well, at least for 30 more years...). even if I have to, all of that stuff can stay there, and it will cost me essentially nothing to do so.

I learned a ton about my engine, got to double and triple check that everything inside was super cool, got to really clean it well (which you just can't do when it's closed up). Got the head stud removed safely which would have been a bear with it still sealed. Got to check the piston squirters, which you can't so when it's sealed. Got to change the oil pump seals and check operation.

I don't know why anyone wouldn't crack the case.

Happy engine:

Jesse16 · Jesse16's Garage

At only 115m miles, top end only. Took 25 years to get that far ! Shame on you guys. Someone needs to drive this car some. I'd say after reading lots of these threads that the tipping point comes as you reach 200K miles. That will likely never happen with this car at the current miles/year rate.