Steering column bushing ordered...any tips?

[KTL]

Many have had decent results with the 928 sleeve. I can see why it wouldn't work for everyone- the steering shaft upper bearings from 911s from 65-89 are not the same

65-69 is listed as p/n 695 347 711 00
70-73 is listed as p/n 914 347 711 00
74-77 may have originally been equipped with 911 347 771 00, which was later superceded by 911 347 771 02
78-89 supposedly were originally equipped with 911 347 771 02

Whatever the case, the typical fix is to push out the plastic sleeve and insert the 928 metal part. But some have said it's not much of an improvement.

Therefore, the next step is to replace the entire original bearing. The question was asked, is there a puller to get the bearing out of the steering column tube. None that I have heard of. The clearances between the ID of the bearing and the OD of the shaft are MUCH too tight to fit any typical puller. The only sure fire way to get the bearing out and put in a new one is to remove the column tube and disassemble it like I show above. NOT a fun job.

[chiplamb]

Just started doing it about 1/2 hour ago, got home, pulled wheel, see here:

Parts on order!

[chiplamb]

Installed! Picked out the trash and the new piece basically slid in by hand, no pressing, hammering or anything else required. Column now tighter than it was, almost no slop (maybe .010"), less than some other vehicles here with far better column design.

I think the biggest difficulty here throughout was getting the steering wheel nut back on! Now there's two tight nuts behind the wheel of this 911 again...

Chip
89 911 440 82.9k

[mthomas58]

Thanks for blazing the trail on this problem. I'm next.

My 1987 developed steering wheel play/rattle yesterday. Thought at first that my Momo hub was loose, but now see that it's the factory plastic sleeve that has failed. Pulled wheel and lots of plastic shrapnel.

Just tried the spray paint lid trick and it worked like a charm! Instant gratification - and rare no cost fix!

[pete917]

Did anyone try the method posted up front of this thread by drilling a small hole in the steering column tube and tapping out the bearing with a rod?

[mickey356]

Pete917,
I just replaced entire bushing. I actually drilled holes in the casing of the bushing and used small hooks to pull it out. Well, they only worked for a bit and then I had enough material to grab onto with a pliers and finished the job. Tapped the new one in and wll was good. About 45mins if I recall. The drilling of holes was plan B, but I didn't need it. That said, it seems like a failry simple job. A lot easier than taking the entire column out. Do a search with my name as I don't recall the title of the thread I posted in. PM me if you have questions.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by naparsei

I'm in the contingent that is waiting for a definitive answer for the longhood solution. Anyone, anyone?

I've been told the 928 part will NOT work.

I have a 1973.5 car and keep hoping it somehow has the '74-on configuration. It certainly has some '74ish stuff going on in the rear interior, so there is hope.

[Mitch Leland]

Do a search, "steering wheel bushing" and you'll come up with a lot of information on repairs. Here's one link that discusses the removal of the top roller bearing: Steering column bushing

[Mitch Leland]

If you'll do a search for, "steering column bushing" you'll find a lot of information on the subject. Including the discussion and removal of the roller bearing: Steering column bushing

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by RWebb

I've been told the 928 part will NOT work.

I have a 1973.5 car and keep hoping it somehow has the '74-on configuration. It certainly has some '74ish stuff going on in the rear interior, so there is hope.

Sorry Randy, take it from me, for a 1973.5, you have the spring and the bushing to control the wobble, not the plastic unit.

What parts are you missing?

There is a posting somewhere here on how to make a bushing from a can. If you need the spring, I suspect any spring that matches the diameter of the bushing and is about as long as the stub on the steering wheel will work.

[RWebb]

no parts are missing - I am just anticipating possible future problems...

[KTL]

Just wanted to update this thread since I linked to it in another recent thread about the lower bearing.

mickey356 posted how to replace the upper bearing w/out removing the entire column (which I have mentioned several times is a very awful job to do), by drilling & cutting the upper bearing casing and pulling it out with hooks or picks.

Steering column bushing

I recall trying to drill the casing and thought it was a bit hard to do. Maybe I was being stupid and didn't realize my bit was dull. Good to see a solution to avoiding removal of the entire column. Have I mentioned removing the column sucks real bad?

[pete917]

I did mine the old fashioned way. Took a while, but I figured it's the steering

replacing the steering column bearing

[Sean Hamilton]

Originally Posted by pete917

I did mine the old fashioned way......replacing the steering column bearing

Yup, …. and tho an absolute mongrel of a job that it is … Steering, and Brakes tends to have that same effect on me too, Pete.

G’day Kevin, terrific to see you’re still here contributing. Ole die hard … must be more to life than rattly old steering columns ??? …. Ah, Nope !! When it happens (& not if) it will totally distract and consume you till it’s fixed.

[pete917]

Originally Posted by Sean Hamilton

Yup, …. and tho an absolute mongrel of a job that it is … Steering, and Brakes tends to have that same effect on me too, Pete.

G’day Kevin, terrific to see you’re still here contributing. Ole die hard … must be more to life than rattly old steering columns ??? …. Ah, Nope !! When it happens (& not if) it will totally distract and consume you till it’s fixed.

I agree Sean. If it has any impact on safety, then you have to do it right. I must admit though, it is a sod of a job.....

[Harpo]

I have successfully removed a three security bolts on the column and the two holding in the ignition switch. The two security screws on the ignition switch were quite easy with a LH twist drill bit. The two security screws inside the dash were miserable until I cut slots in them with my cut off wheel. There is definitely a learning cure here, When I did this 20 years ago on a my 83 SC it seems like it took me days.

David

[Harpo]

Cut a slot in the head for my stubby screw driver.

[Harpo]

Stubby screw driver and some leverage

[Harpo]

two new bearings and bushing

[Harpo]

Done, painted and assembled with new bearings and Mitch Leland's bushing. Amazing how much easier it is to turn the shaft with the new bearings.