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"I'm not sure if you would need a logger with CIS if you have a display. It seems like you could only tune for full throttle, or maybe for fuel economy, since there is only one adjustment and it affects the entire range."
That's exactly right on! And using the WUR as an adjustment for the AFRs has the same effect as the mixture screw, i.e. Both vary the control pressure which affects the full range. |
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I respectfully submit that you are mistaken - I know for certain that adjustments to the WUR have much more dramatic effects to control pressures/AFRs than the mixture screw does. The mixture screw affects idle AFRs but only has a very minor effect on the mid and top ranges while adjustments to the WUR have dramatic effects all across the board. This has been well documented time and again with wide-band meters both on the road and on dynos . . . |
"I respectfully submit that you are mistaken - I know for certain that adjustments to the WUR have much more dramatic effects to control pressures/AFRs than the mixture screw does."
So! The key point is that they both affect the same thing, i.e. the control pressure, and over the full range. And for most/all situations, only very small changes are required to tweak the AFRs unless a major problem exists. This excludes situations where an external ECU is used to selectively change the control pressure at certain RPMs. Bottom line: A monitor of the AFRs has limited utility other than to make a change of the mixture over the full range, and not like the utility for an EFI system. |
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Alex |
Brian Leask charges about $350.00 to mod a Turbo WUR don't know about SC. His also comes with an excellent, comprehensive guide to tuning and a tool as well.
Brian Bodart is very easy to get in touch with - RarlyL8 is his handle on this board. I believe that he works in concert with Leask (or did at one time). Here is one of Bodart's threads: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/642234-show-tell-help-me-restore-neglected-930-a.html Once nice thing about both is that you tell them about your engine, ignition and fuel system (mods etc) and they "pre-set" the adjustments - it seems they are usually pretty close if not spot on (based on feedback on this board). |
This is the one that I have and it is great. You can get it from our host and on the setup I have you can log RPM, AFR, vacuum/boost. Up to 2 hours worth and download with a USB connector to your PC or laptop.
I have used it very successfully with my MFI 2.7 motor. Could not do without it. And it is an easy Porsche installation with no need for other parts, like a tach adapter, and a data logger and and....$$$ This is my installation AFR is the lower gauge. Upper one is a volt meter. There is a switch on the right to turn off the voltmeter so you don't get confused with AFR http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330568648.jpg Here is the main unit. This box, a cable and a wideband sensor is the whole setup. The internals are mil-spec and really high quality. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330568778.jpg Here is what the kit looks like. Comes with everything including software. The cable is made in China.......the rest right here in the USA. Check more information at http://www.daytona-sensors.com/WEGO4.html loads of information here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330568824.jpg |
Looks like a nice unit. Data logging is a plus, I'm only really worried about what's going on when I'm hard on the gas in 3rd or 4th.
I just found out I'll have to swap the exhaust studs for some longer ones for the thick-flanged SSI's. I'm excited though as none of the exhaust nuts were seized:D |
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So, are those dips in the green line indicative of when you shifted into the next gear?
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Shifting looks like this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330589926.gif |
Have you tested the PLX unit yet, how did it turn out?
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Hopefully the old exhaust studs won't be too hard to remove.......... |
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Thanks! Alex |
Took me awhile to finish as the first 2 studs came out easily while the remaining 10 broke:mad:
So, after much, much cursing I mulled over pulling the motor to flip it in order to drill and time-cert the offending portions of the studs. In the end I drilled them on the car(thank God for the lift @ work) and time-certed them. Thank fully the w/b kit I have had just enough length in the wires to do the install. After I check for oil leaks from the new oil lines, I took her out for a good spin. After warm-up, at idle I was seeing afrs of 14.6 or so which is good. Under load in 3rd and 4th I saw 12.3-12.9 and 13.5 under cruise(moderate load). I was a bit concerned when I first fired it up as I was seeing the afr @ 12.1, but once warm(above 170 deg on the gauge) it fell in line. Now that that's done on to the next project!! On to raising the spindles on my Bilstein strut housingsSmileWavy |
Thanks for the followup.
Was this on E10 or pure gas? |
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I can't wait to save up enough cash for some Weber/PMO's to see if this will be helpful
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