DIY alignment experts, please read.

[dad911]

Tire Alignment Toe-In Conversion Chart

As read your measurements, if B>A, you have toe-out in the rear, which is not good. I'd shoot for a little toe-in in the back.

[ClickClickBoom]

Strings work great, racers have been using them for decades. The attention to detail will pay off. Corner balance is the next big issue. If your weights are off, you can adjust the toe and camber until you are blue in the face, to no avail. Change ride heights, corner balance is a must do, per the FSM. I use strings and a set of electronic scales add a Dunlop camber guage and its all good, really good. I can run 65mph and brake, hands off with no pulling or diving to either side. I got my FSM online as a PDF and also have the paper ones as well, guess which ones I use the most....PDF on the iPad.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

I got my FSM online as a PDF and also have the paper ones as well, guess which ones I use the most....PDF on the iPad.

Damned acronyms, we don't need no stinkin acronyms! LOL What the heck is an
FSM?

[bourgeois911]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Damned acronyms, we don't need no stinkin acronyms! LOL What the heck is an
FSM?

Flying Spaghetti Monster

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Damned acronyms, we don't need no stinkin acronyms! LOL What the heck is an
FSM?

Factory Shop Manual.......

[stormcrow]

l recently paid $150,000 her in Atlanta to get my wheels aligned. Of course they needed it because it had been years since they were aligned.

Later on that month I went and replaced my tie rod ends because I wanted to change them out to Turbo. I know I should have waited on the alignment but apparently there was a reason for this happening.

Near the house is a oil change shop that does alignments. Stopped by there to talk to them about doing an alignment on the Porsche and the specialists there said it shouldn't be a problem after I explained to him what I did.

When I brought the P-car over I also brought the specs from the shop where I paid $150.00. So, I gave the sheet to the mechanic, he looked at it and then dialed in the specs on his machine for the Porsche, which BTW was the same exact machine that the other shop used.

Well he pulled up the specs and they were exactly the same specs as the other shop. The display was exactly the same. So I had him do just the front end although he did check everything and when it was all said and done the alignment came out perfect.

The great thing about this is - I always get my oil changed over there and never gave them a though about getting an alignment. So, when I asked what the price was he initially quoted $60.00. However because he only did the front end he charged me $39.00

So I have to say there are alignment shops out there that can do an excellent alignment on the P-cars as long as they have the proper computerized equipment and the specs for the car.

I have to lower it later on this year so when I complete it I will take it back. The nice thing about it was I could stand and watch what was going on and ask questions if need be.

So I would say for a little over $50.00 it's worth having a computer do the alignment. Prices are subject to change depending on the location of the shop.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

Factory Shop Manual.......

HaHA, have worked on 911s for 45yrs but never heard the FSM acronym.
However, at times I have used the acronym RTFM when folks have asked me a technical question that they should have researched themselves! LOL

[rnln]

I use big fishing line for string.
I create a jig by big PVC pipe in front and rear of the car. The 2 strings are parallel, then setting them up by measuring the same lengths on 2 rear space (from the line to the center of the wheels. And same for front.

All my my 4 wheels are toed in, but right rear is a little more than other 3 wheels.

Originally Posted by Elombard

rnln

just to make sure we are all on the same page.

what are you using for string?

what are your measurements from the string to the hub on all four wheels?

and for grins what is the measurement between the strings on the front and the rear?

If I am reading this right you are slightly toed in at the front. I thought scruggs wants us slightly toed out?

I can usually get the rear toe closer than that with out too much trouble, I think I usually shoot for zero at the rear IIRC but there is a lot of opportunity for error in the measurement.

Ooops I just noticed you are toed out.

Is this with any weight in the drivers seat?

I think I would be pretty satisfied with those settings, why did you not shoot for zero on the rear? Is that better for performance? I cant remember. I think a slight toe in allows the normal flex to allow the rear to go to zero during braking, or is the other way around and you want it straight ahead under acceleration. Have to get my books out.

Can you shoot a "selfie" of yourself measuring the distance from the rim to the string at one spot? I am curious what equipment you are using.

Finally, Have you considered a tri-pod corner balance and doing the alignment with close to your weight in the seat? it can make a pretty big difference.

[rnln]

No no, as I explained in the text area, B is < A. It was a mistaken when I did the drawing. All whels are toed in, but right rear is toed in a little more than other 3 wheels.

Originally Posted by dad911

Tire Alignment Toe-In Conversion Chart

As read your measurements, if B>A, you have toe-out in the rear, which is not good. I'd shoot for a little toe-in in the back.

[Driven97]

Just double checking - both pieces of string have to be the exact same length and the distance they are apart have to be exactly the same F&R. The whole string alignment is based on having a perfect parallelogram.

If that's correct, to me your toe doesn't look too bad. I think the spec is 0-20' (0.333°) in per side. If my math is right (questionable) guessing you are measuring about 24" apart on the tire:

24 sin .333 = .1396". 1/8" is 0.125".

According to that you are in spec, dead in the middle on the left rear and near the upper end of it on the right rear.

With how much of a PITA adjusting the rear alignment is, might not be worth trying to tweak it any closer IMO. How bad is the tire wear exactly? 911s in general eat up rear tires much faster than the fronts, and if you have them set for optimal performance with modern tires, the insides will go first. Do you know how to "read" a tire for alignment issues? Toe wear makes a distinctive pattern on the edges of the tread blocks - if you rub you hand inboard and outboard across the tread, they'll feel "smooth" one way and "sharp" the other.

[mreid]

To the OP, you should have slight toe out in the front, however your issue is incorrect camber in the rear.

[rnln]

I thought that it is not perfect, but not too bad. I do have a little pull to the right when taking my hands off the steering wheel.
Before this, I had almost 0 (zero) toe in the front, very little. The front tires wears bad. They wear more on the inside 1/3 of the tire, and is un-even. But in the mean time, my struts are bad too . I just flipped the the front tires (inside out, and outside in) and gave it a little more toed in up front (as the diagram above). Let see how it goes.
Thanks all.

Originally Posted by Driven97

Just double checking - both pieces of string have to be the exact same length and the distance they are apart have to be exactly the same F&R. The whole string alignment is based on having a perfect parallelogram.

If that's correct, to me your toe doesn't look too bad. I think the spec is 0-20' (0.333°) in per side. If my math is right (questionable) guessing you are measuring about 24" apart on the tire:

24 sin .333 = .1396". 1/8" is 0.125".

According to that you are in spec, dead in the middle on the left rear and near the upper end of it on the right rear.

With how much of a PITA adjusting the rear alignment is, might not be worth trying to tweak it any closer IMO. How bad is the tire wear exactly? 911s in general eat up rear tires much faster than the fronts, and if you have them set for optimal performance with modern tires, the insides will go first. Do you know how to "read" a tire for alignment issues? Toe wear makes a distinctive pattern on the edges of the tread blocks - if you rub you hand inboard and outboard across the tread, they'll feel "smooth" one way and "sharp" the other.