Installing SSI's...moderately skilled DIY'er?

[Uber-fanatic]

I have the SSI's...I have the 2 in/2 out exhaust. I have the replacement oil lines. I've been assembling the parts, and now have to make a decision. Can I do this myself? I called my mechanic to get an estimate for install, and just about fell over. I have installed lots of things on lots of cars through the years...water pumps on Mustangs, alternators on Isuzu Troopers, power steering pumps on Volvos, etc. I've rebuilt the brake calipers on both my 911 and my VFR motorcycle, and only just last month rebuilt the pedal cluster on my car. Most recently installed new H4's along with the headlight relays (but that was about as easy as a project gets!). All that to say - I'm not a complete dunce...BUT, as much as I love doing these smallish projects, there isn't that much danger of my car being out of commission for a week or two with anything I've done so far.
This particular project has me doubting myself. I find myself terrified of breaking off an exhaust stud and having to drill out the remaining piece. I have no problem spending $100 for the proper tools to remove the heat exchangers, especially if it saves me $500 in the long run. I am prepared to soak everything with WD40 for days at a time leading up to the removal...but if I get halfway into this project and discover something amiss, well, I can't just up and drive it to my mechanic.
Anyone want to offer wisdom based on what little facts I've given you to digest?

[aigel]

You can always have it towed to the mechanic if you eff up. Nothing wrong with that. The mechanic works for money - you just have to swallow your pride or drop it off with a paper bag over your head.

You are in CA and the hardware should come off pretty easily if car has been in in CA all its life.

Let us know how it went!

G

[timmy2]

Not just the studs to worry about. Read up on removing oil lines on these cars. Can be "interesting", especially at the thermostat.
How many of the correct necessary tools do you have? Are you thinking of doing this on jackstands or do you have access to a lift?
Are there any experienced pelicans near you that would be willing to help?
No Problems encountered to remove and install and using my lift, I'd estimate a full day (8 hrs) to do the work and drive away. That doesn't include parking it the night before and draining the oil. (I did mine recently with no stud problems, some pretty tight oil lines though!)
Did you mechanic include all parts and labor in the estimate?
Get the copper nuts to install the SSI's. You'll thank yourself later...

[jason2guy]

its not that hard, if u dont break a stud. i actually have one of the custom stud drill out kits and i cant find it since i moved- sux. it works perfectly with no worries. so ur in san gabriel- if u want help, ill help u get it done. pm me

[Uber-fanatic]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Not just the studs to worry about. Read up on removing oil lines on these cars. Can be "interesting", especially at the thermostat.
How many of the correct necessary tools do you have? Are you thinking of doing this on jackstands or do you have access to a lift?
Are there any experienced pelicans near you that would be willing to help?
No Problems encountered to remove and install and using my lift, I'd estimate a full day (8 hrs) to do the work and drive away. That doesn't include parking it the night before and draining the oil. (I did mine recently with no stud problems, some pretty tight oil lines though!)
Did you mechanic include all parts and labor in the estimate?
Get the copper nuts to install the SSI's. You'll thank yourself later...

No lift - I drive the front up on 1.5' ramps and then jack up the rear. I would definitely purchase all the tools necessary, and I've already placed copper nuts in my shopping cart with our esteemed host. I've researched the oil line replacement issues, and feel like I have a working grasp on the theoretical exchange; it's when theory meets reality that I freak out!

My mechanic knows me well, and knows I have the parts on hand, and simply gave me the estimate as a 6 hour job...and that's $600 that I would rather spend on tools, a muffler, and beer. I will research the oil line tools that would be necessary tomorrow.

Thanks for your advice, and keep it coming...

[jrolstin]

Be mindful of your oil return tubes when doing the oil lines, and the heat exchangers for that matter, so easy to slip and hit them...

[tobluforu]

There are a boat-load of posts on this task, search and you willl find all the info. that is needed.

[RarlyL8]

Soak everything real well in your favorite penetrating oil (Kroil if you got it or can borrrow from your mechanic). Then take the car to your mechanic and have him break free all the nuts. That includes exhaust stud nuts and oil line nuts. If all goes well you drive it home and finish the job, if not you're in the right place.

[blucille]

I did this once and it was a month long project due to broken studs....the next time it was a few hours start to finish.....has more to do with the condition of the car, if someone has been in there recently, things come apart easily, and certainly a southern CA car will be better than most others....keep in mind, you might be better off cutting the heat exchangers off and Dremel-ing the heat exchanger nuts off if you find any that are rusty, ugly or just don't want to come off with a little pressure.....heating each nut also helps a lot.

[super9064]

Do you have Waynes 101 911 projects book, it's in there. A good read even if you have others do the work, it's nice to have an idea of what is involved.

[timmy2]

Take Jason up on his offer to help.
Way to step up Jason! :-)
Gotta love the peeps on this board.
If you were near me, same offer.

[Uber-fanatic]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

Soak everything real well in your favorite penetrating oil (Kroil if you got it or can borrrow from your mechanic). Then take the car to your mechanic and have him break free all the nuts. That includes exhaust stud nuts and oil line nuts. If all goes well you drive it home and finish the job, if not you're in the right place.

Sage advice - excellent.

Originally Posted by sonett43

if someone has been in there recently, things come apart easily, and certainly a southern CA car will be better than most others...

The engine was only assembled 20K miles ago, so I am counting on it being easier than most...

Originally Posted by super9064

Do you have Waynes 101 911 projects book, it's in there. A good read even if you have others do the work, it's nice to have an idea of what is involved.

Yes I do, and I've read that portion a few times. I've probably gotten more info and good advice from all the tech forums here at Pelican though, to be honest. I love this forum and all of the members within!

Originally Posted by timmy2

Take Jason up on his offer to help.
Way to step up Jason! :-)
Gotta love the peeps on this board.
If you were near me, same offer.

Already sent a PM to Jason - and look forward to taking advantage of his offer with the promise of beer (good beer!) as payment - assuming he partakes of course...

[jrolstin]

+1 on the offer to help. You can't go wrong there! And do it yourself, mine came off no problem and I used penetrating oil. Make sure you have a 13mm swivel socket though!!!

[gtc]

A flex-head gear wrench (12mm?) will save you a lot of trouble when tightening the new exhaust nuts. The bent SSI wrench isn't that helpful.

[BoxsterGT]

Over the years one fact has finally crept into my head.......Using the heat wrench saves many hours with NO broken studs.

A Oxy-Acetelene torch w a tiny tip works the best. Heat each nut until it glows red, then gently turn it off. If it sticks, stop & heat the nut again & turn it back in then back off until its completely off.

Any other way takes far longer and carries a much greater risk of breaking one off.

One hour or less with the heat wrench for both sides. And....................., always, always, always use copper anti-sieze paste when installing with new hardware from our host.

Been there..........., done that............, many times.

Once complete, ask me how to remove the Big Oil Nuts. Done that too, many times.

Len

[Uber-fanatic]

So - this weekend I began to take the necessary measures to make the heat exchanger removal as easy as possible. A thorough dose of penetrating oil was the first step.








Word to the wise: after applying penetrating oil to nuts on the exhaust bolts and allowing the car to sit overnight in garage, one would be advised to get the car out of the garage and to open the windows BEFORE firing up the engine. I was quite startled at the amount of oil fumes that poured into the cars cabin immediately upon startup!! I was nearly choked out of the car before I could get the windows open...a nice way to start the week.

I will apply another dose or two through the week, and next Saturday morning begin the swap. A couple of pictures of the oil lines I'll be replacing...before I purchase the new lines, anyone got a set for a front oil cooler that you never used? I'll give you $150 for the pair... Other purchases this week will be an oil line wrench (33mm?), the swivel head 12mm and all the exhaust gaskets. Yippee!

[BMWTom]

I'm getting ready to replace my heat exchangers too. The plan is to blast with PB for a few days and then try to heat with the nuts with a butane torch.

Thanks for the post!

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by BMWTom

I'm getting ready to replace my heat exchangers too. The plan is to blast with PB for a few days and then try to heat with the nuts with a butane torch.

Thanks for the post!

I've been using mapp gas with better heat than butane or propane. Close to the heat from my oxy/acetylene without the melting of steel that that unit can cause. (besides I ran out of O2)
Make sure you get the mapp gas torch head, the propane ones can melt.

[BoxsterGT]

It looks like you have replacement flanged nuts, so they may come off easily.

Originals certainly wont. Good Luck.

Len

[Targalid]

I searched this forum diligently for the best way to remove exhaust nuts. The best advice I got was to use a torch and heat each nut to a red heat, then give it a quarter turn, let it cool and then turn the nut off the rest of the way. It worked perfectly on a car that had not been touched in 17 years. No broken studs.