Engine transmission install check list

[midnight911]

could you help scrutinize this check list for reinstalling engine/ tranny?

I finally got my 915 back from rebuild + LSD installed. Big thank you to Steve W and Gordon L!

I am hoping I haven't forgotten all the details when I dropped the engine. wanted to make sure i'm not missing anything when i go through the list.

please advise if i'm missing something and/or have the orders wrong...



Check list:
Installing engine and transmission
[edited post-engine/tranny install complete]

1 install tansmission grounding strap
2 attach transmission cross member
3 connect 915 to engine
4 install starter
5 connect starter line
6 connect back up light switch line
7 fill transmission fluid

8 position and lift engine/ transmission

9 bolt transmission/ engine mounts
10 connect speedo sensor
11 connect CV
12 connect throttle linkage
13 connect and install clutch cable and lever
14 connect transmission grounding strap
15 install oil cross tube
16 install oil hard tube
17 install oil S hose (hard tube to tank)
18 connect heat tube
19 install sway bar

20 connect engine harness (drv side front area)
21 connect engine harness (O2 sensor)
22 connect engine harness (grounding at oil press sender area)
23 connect engine harness (coil)
24 connect engine harness (throttle area)
25 connect engine harness (main)
26 connect vacuum to brake booster
27 connect oil breather hose x 2 (tank inlet)
28 connect oil breather hose x 1 (intake duct)
29 connect fuel line x 2

30 install shift coupler
31 install fuel pump fuse
32 fill engine oil
33 connect battery
34 install bumper

35 re-torque CV

[DRACO A5OG]

The most important part is the angel of attack going into the tunnel.

If on the ground, I suggest, once engine and trans is under the car, lower the car so the angle is not so steep getting into the tunnel, also easier to manuver the set in then going in watch the cv joints, heater hoses and the rubber dust boot at the tunnel. Do not allow the shifting rod from tranny to rub against the tunnel. Take it slow and be maticulous. Once in everything else is a breeze.

Jim

[Scott Douglas]

You might want to add a note to double check that the throw out lever and bearing are properly mated after you mount the trannie to the engine.

[1982911SCTarga]

Don't forget the starter and the flywheel ring gear.

Regarding the transaxle crossmember, I like to leave the four nuts a little loose, which makes it easier to start the transaxle mount bolts later on. Remember to button everything up when you're done.

Brian

[midnight911]

Thank you guys!

@1982911SCTarga, when you say don't forget, what do you mean? how should the gears line up? what to check?
crossmemeber...checked. I have it loose for now. :-)

@Scott,
good call. I have my eyes on the lever and TOB.


last night, i tried to mate the tranny to engine but failed. Well, the engine is sitting on a bike jack so it moves as i pushed the tranny. have to think about somehow holding the engine in place. i'm guessing it would but would wiggling the axle flange with tranny in gear help align the mainshaft spline? I suspect the splines are not aligned. I put very thin coat of grease on the spline...

[1982911SCTarga]

I just meant that sometimes guys have forgotten to put the ring gear back on the flywheel when re-assembling everything.

Towards a more perfect union: Either turn the engine over slightly or, if the transaxle's in gear, rotate the axle flanges so the output shaft rotates slightly and try to mate things up again. Also, make sure the clutch release fork engages the throwout bearing.

Brian

[Skip1]

I can personally vouch for the "forgetting the ring gear" piece - dumb, very dumb - causes completed removal as well. What I found easiest was to block the engine from moving (if it's on a jack for example), then get a friend to help you manually lift and line up the four bolts to the engine - sometimes needs a little giggle, but safer as you can feel if it's going on. I actually found adding the starter and wiring after the transmissions is bolted snug, allowed for a birds eye view of the inside clutch / forks to some degree (also lightens to load when you lift the transmission).

When you lift the engine into the car, the more level the car the easier to get the shifter shaft into the tunnel (any angles creates unnecessary headaches) - nice and slow for sure. Also ensure that the wiring harnesses, and vacuum tubes are pulled up and out of the way to the top of the engine (I used tie wraps), as the last thing you want (yes, lessons learned), is to clamp the harness between the engine skirt and the body.

My two cents.

[Targa Me]

Ring gear! don't forget. (don't ask me how i know)
915 gear fluid in before the assembly goes up into the car.
Also you may need to move the main shaft spline just a tad if the trans does not mate with the engine easily. if the spline is aligned, eng and trans slide together easily.

[midnight911]

since i did not touch the ring gear, pressure plate, clutch, etc, I think I'm not worrying about the ring gear. you guys keep messing with it.




some progress, today.
the tranny now slipped onto the engine. got the tranny in gear and manipulated the axle flange while i was at it. after a few tries, it snugged right up. bolted up, and then to starter, connected the wires including the back up light switch, and also connected the throttle wire from the throttle to the linkage.

i'll fill the fluid tomorrow and will place the whole thing under the car and see if I can bolt it up to the car...

thanks for the feedback however.

[RWebb]

turn the vent tube to the correct angle

[jrolstin]

Just curious, does your throw-out bearing 'wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle, yeah' ? Mine does a little and I don't know if I should replace it or not. Clutch functioned fine before I took everything apart.

[midnight911]

@Randy,
vent tube? do you mean the oil breather hose?

@Jonathon,
my TOB had very very minor rattle. when i have clutch engaged at idle, i hear the rattle. i could also feel very small play when i tried to wiggle while the tranny was out.
but i don't care. since the clutch is in good shape, i passed that and decided to wait until the next clutch replacement which i don't know when.

i also edited the OP. I find it easier to attach the ground strap before the carrier. also, attaching the brake light line at the same time installing the starter should definitely be more efficient.

[jrolstin]

midnight911, that's good news, I am in the same boat and was planning on doing the same. Thanks

[midnight911]

throw out lever and the bearing...
this wasn't too bad. poke your finger in from the side and you have control... i missed a few times but retry was not difficult nor frustrating.

[RWebb]

vent tube is on top of the tranny - it is not the oil breather hose

P AG wants it to face at an angle not front, back, or 90o sideways

[midnight911]

@Randy,
thanks. Gordon L installed it and i haven't touched it. So should be okay. But what angle should it be at?

[RWebb]

not sure of the exact angle - if Gordon did it, then it is perfect

tho... maybe it got moved in shipping - check the Bentley to be a properly anal Pooschey owner

[midnight911]

Thanks, Randy.
I will leave where Gordon left. I am not touching it. :-)



3 hours last night doing under the car. 3 hours this morning doing the rest in engine bay and connecting and adjusting coupler (with Ed's delrin gut). The car started after a few cranks. vroom, vroom!!!

Sun is breaking out here in Portland, and i will take it out for a drive. Very excited.

I will retorque CV later.

I edited the OP check list with my own feedback after actually working on the car. Hope this is of value to someone...while it was not excessively difficult. having a check list handy also helped being confident on the work I did.

I paid extra attention and time doing these things.
1. position tranny/ engine, sliding shifter rod into tunnel.
2. clutch cable, lever, and helper spring, making sure the omega spring is in right orientation/ position, clutch pedal all the way back flush with brake pedal (used 2x4 blocks to hold the pedal in place, then adjusting the adjusting bolt to 1mm spacing...