Questions - Boge to Bilstein Struts

[shrtshck]

Replacing the original Boge front struts, preparing for the switch to the Bilstein inserts but have a couple questions I'd like to clear up before tearing into the conversion.
1 - What have others used to remove the nut on the Boge, since I don't plan on reusing the the Boge insert I'm thinking the brute force using a pipe wrench.
2 - The new bilsteins have a different configuration retaining nut, what have others used to tighten and to what torque ? I'd rather not have at it with a pipe wrench if there is another better way.
3 - The Bilstein strut has a small rubber washer below the upper mount nut, where is this meant to go during assembly, under the nut on top of the mount plate or underneath the plate?
See pics below.

[KFC911]

It's been a while, but for #1, have at it with a pipe wrench. For #2, there is supposed to be "something" that ships with the Bilsteins, but mine didn't so I again used a pipe wrench (along with a shop rag to protect the nut)...didn't even leave "teeth marks", and I'm super picky . For #3, that small rubber washer is discarded...it's on there for shipping purposes (don't know why), I had the same question and had to ask too. Hope this helps....

Keith

[Spark Chaser]

Just replaced mine also. #1-used the Porsche approved pipe wrench. #2- tightened by hand and then used a drift punch and hammer to tighten the final amount. The tool to tighten was not included. #3- discard. By the way, the hammer was Porsche approved also.

[LJ851]

Bilstein no longer ships the tool to install their gland nut with the struts. A pipe wrench or hammer and punch (porsche approved of course) works in a pinch.

[shrtshck]

Good enough, a pipe wrench it is then

Thanks for the input, always good to know that I'm not alone

Blair

[rfuerst911sc]

It's possible that the factory cooling fan pulley wrench will fit the Bilstein nut. That assumes you have a factory tool kit and the later style wrench.

[bfunke]

If you call Bilstein NA they will sell you one for about 5USD. Many motorcycle shops have them laying around and will probably give or loan it to you. You need to torque to about 90ft-lbs. If you don't have any luck I'll send you mine as I just did this job.

Bryan

[DRACO A5OG]

When using the pipe wrench, place your foot in the wheel well and torque it like crazy, if not it will be loose and damage the new struts. Mine are aged but because it was not torqued properly by PO, it rounded out and only way to fixit is to insert a steel ring to keep pressure on the rim of the new strut.

I would drive around for a bit then re-torque

[rgruppe 912]

I am trying to disassemble a pair of Boge front struts right now and am having problems getting the housing off to expose the internals. I have it down to the bare strut but the top looks like a threaded bolt and nothing else. Is there a trick to this? I don't see what I need to loosen.

[bfunke]

rgruppe - post a pick and we can help

[rgruppe 912]

[rgruppe 912]

If you guys can't figure it out I can ask my mechanic. He races at Paris Dakar. If he doesn't know I'll just tell him to get a new hobby. Lol.

[herman maire]

Originally Posted by rgruppe 912

If you guys can't figure it out I can ask my mechanic. He races at Paris Dakar. If he doesn't know I'll just tell him to get a new hobby. Lol.

Are you trying to remove the top shock protector?

I just went through this today. Th only thing holding it there is RUST. I put some loose nut down the notch where the treads are. I let it soak for a hour but it was still jammed.

I ended up grinding a little notch on the collar that surounds the treads on the shock strut so my impact chisel could break it loose. It still was tough but it came off.

[rgruppe 912]

Thank you for the insight. I know this is a late response but I have been very busy lately. I think tomorrow morning I'll give it the old College try. If I am still having trouble I will come back to this forum. Thanks!

[gtc]

It almost looks like you have the sleeve and lower bushing of the actual strut mount rusted to the shock.

[rgruppe 912]

I ended up going to a local shop today and the guy told me the top collar would have to be removed from the strut because it was welded onto the upper housing. He ended up giving me a pair of Bilstein covers for next to nothing. I think I know where to bring my spindles but I am going to wait on the responses of several local places before I head down the highway. Will post pictures soon.

[rgruppe 912]

I went to Otto's in Venice a couple days ago to pick up my front struts. He told me he left them in the press for a day after soaking them in WD 40. They finally gave. As you can see the sleeve that was covering the threads on the bolt broke free. It was all simply just rusted together.

[pete3799]

That looks like it came off an east coast car. Didn't think rust was an issue on the left coast.

[rgruppe 912]

A few days ago I went over to 405 Auto in Santa Monica and they removed the caps for me that were holding in the inserts. I went home and realized that they were still stuck. I called German Car Service in Los Angeles and they told me it should pull right out. Yesterday morning I visited my old friend Robert at Dutch Treat in Lawndale and he told me there is a rubber O Ring keeping the insert inside the housing. He then took a needle point tool and removed the two rubber rings to free my two shocks.

*** Pictures below are of the parts as they were sitting in the trunk of my Baader Meinhof Wagen.

[rgruppe 912]

I have been told the bearing at the base of the spindle will come off. If mine is not worn too badly I'd like to leave it on the strut. Is this typical for someone restoring their shocks? What is the best way to refresh the metal on the spindle after I powder-coat the housing? There are some wear marks I'd like to get rid of.