Driving technique question.

[SilberUrS6]

I've been thinking about what constitutes a "warm" engine. I have been unwilling to rev up the engine past 4k RPM until the temp gauge rises to the 8 o'clock position. But if the temp gauge is above the first shaded white area, but below the "8" position, then the engine is warm, but the oil itself is not quite up to temp. The oil is the last thing to get warm, so I'm assuming that the engine gets to temp fairly quickly, and the oil lags for some time until it matches the engine temp.

I would like to be able to go past 4k RPM on a "warm" engine, but do not wish to do the engine damage. In my Audi, if there is oil pressure, it's time for boost. But the Carrera I have to treat differently. The question is *how* differently? Temp gauge off the peg? Temp gauge above 7 o'clock? Oil at normal operating temp (8 o'clock)?

[Dublinoh]

Ohio winter (30 degrees) it won't go to "8" even after a half hour drive. I wonder if anyone really "knows" the answer to this. Curious to read what others say.

[twistoffat]

To be honest I don´t really pay attention to the weather conditions when waiting for the engine to get warm. I have a ten minute rule that seems to work regardless of the weather(Ten minutes at 2500 to 3500 revs). I am more concerned about over reving regardless of the motor temperature.

[eauboy]

Here's how I do it:

[Tippy]

eauboy - that is my method too..........boost and all.

The cylinders heat up quicker than water-cooled engines. It's the crank and rods that concern me making sure they are warm and "pliable".

[Autoban]

I also wait for the oil temp to get to the top edge of the lower white block before I rev above 4K. Judging by how quick I get good heat when the air temp is in the high 20s to low 30s, the engine cylinders and heads warm up quick. However, the oil needs to get warmed up to reach the correct viscosity to keep everything lubricated. The Porsche Engineers must have painted the lower white block for some reason.

[KNS]

Feel the oil cooler lines in your right front fender - are they warm? Compare to where the needle is on the temp guage. When the oil lines are warm/hot and you know where that is on your guage, take it past 4000 RPM.

[Porchcar guy]

And I thought you were looking for driving tips ...Agree with the let her rip note :=)

[porschenut]

I believe the whole point of warmth has to do with the ability of the oil to flow, not the heat of the engine parts. When cold (any time the car starts, regardless of ambient temp), oil does not flow well. No oil in the world flows well on startup. That's why 90% of engine wear occurs during cold startup. Oil has to flow readily in order to properly lubricate parts. The recommendation to keep the revs low is to minimize the damage to your engine while the oil temperature reaches a level that provides adequate oil flow. IMO, that point is the let 'er rip mark in one of the previous posts.

[SilberUrS6]

Originally Posted by Porchcar guy

And I thought you were looking for driving tips ...Agree with the let her rip note :=)

I absolutely am looking for driving tips. Drive it one way "cold" and a completely different way "warm".

[Josh D]

Originally Posted by porschenut

I believe the whole point of warmth has to do with the ability of the oil to flow, not the heat of the engine parts. When cold (any time the car starts, regardless of ambient temp), oil does not flow well. No oil in the world flows well on startup. That's why 90% of engine wear occurs during cold startup. Oil has to flow readily in order to properly lubricate parts. The recommendation to keep the revs low is to minimize the damage to your engine while the oil temperature reaches a level that provides adequate oil flow. IMO, that point is the let 'er rip mark in one of the previous posts.

I believe oil flow is part of the equation and would be consistant with all internal combustion engines.

Another, and maybe even more crucial element to our air cooled engines, is the expansion characteristics. I've read in more than one place, including Pete Z's book, that warming the air cooled motors up slowly may extent the life of the dilivar head studs. Getting the exhaust side of the engine hotter than the intake side quickly will cause the engine to expand like a "banana" and that places additional strain on the head studs and or mag cases.

[billwagnon]

I thought the expansion of the hot engine was accounted for in the tolerances, so as the engine heats up, any "play" between parts is eliminated.

I keep it under 4000 RPM until I hit the 180F mark on the temp gauge.

[dshepp806]

I keep my '89 below 4K RPMs until I see 180 degrees F....then it's on!

BEST!

Doyle

[Jerome74911S]

I keep it at 3000 or less until reaching, or approaching, 180.

This is with 20W50 oil.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by Jerome74911S

I keep it at 3000 or less until reaching, or approaching, 180.

This is with 20W50 oil.

+1 here. I basically keep it close to 3000 RPM's or less for street use. I always wanted my Porsches to enjoy a long life and I was Lucky with all of them. I never had to do any engine work on them and they were mostly daily drivers, rain or shine, summer or winter.

[winders]

Originally Posted by porwolf

I basically keep it close to 3000 RPM's or less for street use.

That's a crime......

Scott

[Dave 86 930 Fl]

No warm up procedure. Take car to track and run it, it will warm up real quick.

[FastCarFan]

Quote de porwolf

I basically keep it close to 3000 RPM's or less for street use.

That's a crime......



Scott

I agree. I don't exceed 3k rpm until the needle in the temp gauge is above the 1st white block. The I rev it to the redline every chance I get!

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by FastCarFan

I agree. I don't exceed 3k rpm until the needle in the temp gauge is above the 1st white block. The I rev it to the redline every chance I get!

It's like exercise for your car!

[tazzieman]

I think <3000rpm on a warm engine constitutes lugging. These are tough motors!