Carrera Quarter Window Install?

NoLift911 · 07-12-2012, 10:09 AM

For those of you that have installed a bunch of these, I have a driver's side that is giving me fits. I got the passenger side in fine - alone.

I can't seem to get the drivers side in - on the install once the window is ready to put in with trim and "roped" do you push the window in so that the larger rubber lip on the straight portion is in the groove?

I have tried both ways, if I force the rubber lip in the groove the curved part of the window wants to stick out to far and not sit flush - even with pressure, so the lip never catches when I go to rope it in.

If I start with the larger rubber lip out of the groove I can get the other parts of the window started and the rubber catches the lip - but then I can never get the large rubber lip pushed in where it is supposed to go.

So just wondering how those folks that have done a bunch of these, alone - what is the trick.

The passenger side took me about 15 minutes by myself - not sure what is up with the drivers side.

Thanks

cmcfaul · cmcfaul's Garage

I just went through this. I assume you are installing new seals. The seals I got from Stoddard are simply too big and no matter what will not allow the window to close. Ended up installing the old one again until I figure it out. My Porsche body shop could not get them to work either.

They must be aftermarket, or somthing as there is NO way the window will close with them properly installed.

Chris
73 911 e

NoLift911 · 07-12-2012, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmcfaul

I just went through this. I assume you are installing new seals. The seals I got from Stoddard are simply too big and no matter what will not allow the window to close. Ended up installing the old one again until I figure it out. My Porsche body shop could not get them to work either.

They must be aftermarket, or somthing as there is NO way the window will close with them properly installed.

Chris
73 911 e

Yes these are new seals but OEM. There is a way that you can get the window installed and not have the door close (OEM and aftermarket) - and that is not to get that rubber lip seated properly in the straight metal groove. If it is not seated the entire assembly will sit proud by 1/4 inch...and that would interfere with the door closing.

Pick up the rubber flap and look underneath and see if that rubber lip is settled down inside the groove - if it is sitting on top...makes a big difference.

This is the same lip and groove that I am talking about in terms of what goes in first...

cmcfaul · cmcfaul's Garage

No way no how the $80 "OEM" seals I got are ever going to fit. They fit into the grove nicely and fit flush around the window but are WAY to big to allow the window to close no matter how much persuasion is used.

uwanna · 07-12-2012, 12:21 PM

Just installed a drivers side rear quarter last week with a new seal. Damn, what a MOFO! Know exactly what you mean about getting the verticle rubber bar that's under the flap into the groove. It MUST be done first! I finally got my window in by peeling the flap back and making sure the rubber bar got into the groove. (but the important thing is having your rope loose ends meet in the middle of the verticle part)Then while applying a lot of pressure to push the rear of the window in, start "roping it in" at the verticle part. As the roping proceeds, the window will "pull in" more and more the further you "rope". I started the roping toward the bottom first. I like you, thought "this damn rubber seal ain't never going to fit in there", but it did! I did the job by myself, but sure would have been much easier with a helper to be the "pusher"
Also, I lubed the seal and window frame with a very soapy liquid. Helps a lot!

NoLift911 · 07-12-2012, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uwanna

Just installed a drivers side rear quarter last week with a new seal. Damn, what a MOFO! Know exactly what you mean about getting the verticle rubber bar that's under the flap into the groove. It MUST be done first! I finally got my window in by peeling the flap back and making sure the rubber bar got into the groove. (but the important thing is having your rope loose ends meet in the middle of the verticle part)Then while applying a lot of pressure to push the rear of the window in, start "roping it in" at the verticle part. As the roping proceeds, the window will "pull in" more and more the further you "rope". I started the roping toward the bottom first. I like you, thought "this damn rubber seal ain't never going to fit in there", but it did! I did the job by myself, but sure would have been much easier with a helper to be the "pusher"
Also, I lubed the seal and window frame with a very soapy liquid. Helps a lot!

Thanks - ok so I started roping on the bottom part (I also have a b-pillar roll bar support in the way so that adds to the PIA factor) so I figured where I can at least access easiest would be "easiest". I figured that vertical bar had to go in first...

Thanks for the confirmation!

Tidybuoy · 07-12-2012, 03:57 PM

Are we talking about rear windows that are fixed or the operational (opening) rear windows?

I'm asking because my rear windows do not close completely and maybe the weather stripping is not installed correctly. They close enough to keep the rain out but it's not a perfect seal.

uwanna · 07-12-2012, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-Dawger

Yes these are new seals but OEM. There is a way that you can get the window installed and not have the door close (OEM and aftermarket) - and that is not to get that rubber lip seated properly in the straight metal groove. If it is not seated the entire assembly will sit proud by 1/4 inch...and that would interfere with the door closing.

Pick up the rubber flap and look underneath and see if that rubber lip is settled down inside the groove - if it is sitting on top...makes a big difference.

This is the same lip and groove that I am talking about in terms of what goes in first...

To Tidybouy's question: we're talking about fixed rear quarter windows.

To P-Dawger: It's ironic you mention the problem of the seal not being seated in the vertical groove correctly. Some years ago, when I had a shop do a glass out repaint, they installed the driver window with the problem you mentioned above. That is the reason I got a new seal and decided to tackle the replacement. I was tired of looking at it!! To me, the install was not the worst part. The most difficult and frustrating part of the process was getting the metal trim securely installed into the window/seal assy, prior to installing the window.
My hands, fingers, and finger tips ached for days! My question is this: How in the hell did they install the metal trim at the factory? There had to be an easy, production oriented method, but I can't imagine how!!