Setting the dizzy?

[flash951]

Hey, is there detailed instructions somewhere with step by steps to adjust the dizzy?

[flash951]

Adjusting, 0-5 degree on idle and 30-35 degree at 6000 rpm. Never done this before, just adjusted my carbs from instructions, and now hope to find "dummy" instructions about adjusting timing.

[Flat6pac]

Properly running distributor will set 5 deg at idle but the early cars, warmed up, you are to free rev the engine to over 4000RPM and that will be your 30 to 35 deg advance. lock the distributor and when you idle the advance should be the 5 BTDC area.
Bruce

[Driver_X]

^ what he said.

[aigel]

You have a timing light?

Well - then set it up for 5 degrees when warm and idling.

Then, while keeping the light on the crank pulley, rev it to 6000 rpm and see what it shows.

I like an adjustable light (That you can dial degrees in the back) and I set it at 35. If the mark comes in at zero or close to it, you are good to go.

You should be very very careful around the running engine (fan and belts). Don't wear long sleeves, nothing hanging around your neck and stay clear with your fingers and tools.

If the distributor does 5 degees idle but not 35 or close to it at 6000, you will need to check it and / or get it recurved.

HTH,

George

[flash951]

Thank you for answer, just to be sure about this. My crank pulley has markings 30 and 35, is this the marks to be aiming for? I also found two markings T1 or somethings, is this the TDC and the 5 degree mark?

[aigel]

Z1 mark is TDC. I am not aware of 30/35 marks, I always used the dial on my timing light to set this up. If you don't have a timing light yet and are ready to buy one, spend $15 more for this option. That way you only need to know what the TDC mark is and dial the rest on the light.



HTH,

G

[flash951]

Thank you, I allso want to buy one that has a tachometer,

[tuchan]

I don't worry what the idle timing is doing, only the high revs advance.

After setting timing, out on the road we go, full throttle high revs and listen carefully for pinging, if it does then back it off a few degrees (so there is no pinging) and you are good to go. It works for me.

Just a note that pinging= BAD -do not continue to do this.

If you have points and a gap to set, ensure that is set accurately before you consider doing the timing.

[flash951]

Points and a gap to set? Please explain, new terms for me.

[flash951]

The vacuum line from the intake manifold to the dizzy, should I plug it or leave it in?

[E Sully]

Some information on your engine would help. What is the original year and model of the engine. Also, has it been modified, and if so what did you change.

[flash951]

2.7L (-75), Webers, CIS 2.7 S cams, 3-1 headers, Dansk muffler,

[E Sully]

Inside your distributor there are points. They must be in good condition and the gap must be set before timing can be set. Also, internal parts must be clean and moving freely. Distributor cap and rotor must also be in good condition.

In this picture you can see that there is corrosion that must be removed and parts lubricated so they move freely. If they are not working properly, timing cannot be set.

[flash951]

What about he vacuum tube to the dizzy?

[E Sully]

Vacuum line is connected to check at idle, and disconnected and plugged at 6,000 rpm.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by flash951

Hey, is there detailed instructions somewhere with step by steps to adjust the dizzy?

when I owned cars w/ points i'd pull the distributor to set the point gap w/ a feeler gauge while the dizzy was mounted in a bench vise. It's very quick and easy way to do it.

then when it's back in the car check the dwell reading, high dwell means low gap, low dwell means high gap. Gap at the wide end is the goal.

many will tell you to set the engine @ TDC compression for cyl#1before pulling the dist. but that is not necessary, do note where the rotor points and when refitting the dist. have the rotor point to the same place.

There are several threads here, search 'points'
here's one

another

[flash951]

I've borrowed a timing light with tach, but the tach was not able to show more than 5000 rpm. I was then only able to look at the idle. When disconnection the vacuum hose and plug it, the idle revs up to maybe 1800 and it's at about 5 degrees BTDC. With the vacuum hose connected as normal and rev at about 900, the BTC is about -5 or -10 degrees.

Question: Should I have the vacuum hose plugged or connected when driving the car normally?

[Walter_Middie]

Just because your timing light does not show RPM past 5,000 doesn't mean you can't still look at it. Just aim the timing light at the timing marks on the pulley and briefly rev the engine. You will see the timing marks advance then stop advancing at some point. This is your total timing - whether it happens at 4,000 RPM or 6,000 RPM, because it stops advancing, it doesn't really matter what RPM it is at. We always say 6,000 RPM because that is high enough that the advancing will have stopped. Stopping below that RPM is fine, as long as you get around 35 deg BTDC.

You don't NEED to have the vacuum hose attached while driving it, but it does retard the timing slightly at idle. I think this is mainly for emissions.

[flash951]

Thank you very much!