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Getting Alignment done for Euro Height SC
Will my local shop need any special data to do an alignment on my SC which has been lowered to Euro ride height? Also, when I called they noted the Porsche does factory alignments with the car weight-loaded, which they will not be able to do.
Should I worry about that? Its my first alignment and I'm kind of edgy. What if something goes wrong!
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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery. |
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If they don't add YOUR weight to the driver's seat, they are not doing it properly. Are they a Porsche shop or just a regular place?
If they don't know 911s, don't let them touch it. Seriously.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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Exactly! Don't let anyone work on the car unless they have good equipment, know the difference between a street set-up and autocross settings, and are willing to let you sit in the car while it's being aligned. Also, a half tank of gas is preferable. A computer print out of the final settings is mandatory.
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Keep the Shiny Side UP! Pete Z. |
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Search alignment specs & you'll get more info than you want or need. There should be Pelicans in your area who can tell you where to go. You want a shop that can answer the question you asked here. If they can't you need to go somewhere else. Tell them how you drive & they should know how to set up your car. Get it corner balanced 1st. Won't be a lot of money if they know what they're doing. As far as I know weight loading is simply adding weight in the drivers seat equivalent to your weight when corner balancing & aligning the car. A general rule of thumb is 1 degree more negative camber in the rear in relation to the front. Given that with a lot of SC's it's difficult to obtain much neg. camber in the front it's desirable to set the front 1st & then go 1 degree more in the rear. 0 toe is fine in the rear. What you want in the front depends on driving habits. I personally do a lot of highway driving so I have a slight amount of toe in. That way the car tracks straighter with less corrections. 0 or slight toe out will give better turn in on corners. Castor should be 5 + to help stability.
Good Luck, Steve |
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Thanks for the input. I grabbed the list of places our local PCA lists, and I'm going to give some of them a call. One place so far quoted me $300, which I'm hoping is on the high side.
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Lillie - 1979 911 SC Targa, The Original 911 SCWDP Car. Currently in open heart surgery. |
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Quote:
I think(based on your first post) what you want is: Lowered to "Euro" Spec(they may not know so be prepared to give them the specs) Corner Balanced(even as possible handling in right and left turns,braking,etc.) 4 wheel alignment(not a track only setup but mainly for street driving) Depending on the hourly rate of the area, $300 may be the lower end of costs. Doing these jobs right can take some time even for an experienced technician. Done correctly and the difference will amaze you.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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Since your car has been lowered, be prepared to see the printout results to be mostly in the red or beyond spec range.
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300 for strictly an alignment is a little on the high side IMO. Aligning a car is not rocket science, it's a pretty straight forward process. I'm just a backyard mechanic but I lowered, corner balanced & aligned my SC in approx. 5 hours. The alignment part only took about an hour. What takes time is if you have to reindex your torsion bars to achieve lowering the height &/or corner balancing. I was lucky in that I didn't need to do that. Was also lucky in that I'm right down the street & friends with Mark Nadler of Exotech. (Exotechpower.com). One of the most knowledgeble Porsche guys around. Used his shop, tools & equipment. He directed me & set up the scales & alignment equipment but I did the work.
Your car is already lowered & if all you want is alignment then as I said it's a fairly quick, easy procedure. Once again, just tell them your driving habits & useage & they should recommend what you need. If they can't, go elsewhere. If you opt for corner balancing & your adjustment eccentrics are maxed out then it may require reindexing torsion bars which could drive the bill up considerably. But that's also something that can be played with a little bit to get things close. So what if the side to side heights are off 1/4" here or there. Personally I wouldn't care if it allowed for a decent corner balance without reindexing. If the person doing the work knows what they're doing then they can get everything 90-95% for short money but the extra 5-10% may cost 3X as much. Only you can decide if it's worth it. Does your car track straight & feel stable at speeds up to 100-110 mph? When cornering hard can you control direction with the throttle? If so, unless you're experiencing abnormal tire wear I wouldn't touch it. Good Luck, Steve Last edited by sparkle84; 08-24-2012 at 04:44 PM.. Reason: spelling |
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