![]() |
Quote:
"When I painted the wheel caps I didn't have any satin black, so I painted them matt black, after they were dry I rubbed off the logo carefully then to get the satin finish I rubbed them with my bare hand to "polish" them. Worked well." Pelican has the shorter studs. Just search for a 84 911 Carrera. |
I just checked availability for 11"x17"s but they show 10.5" to be the widest. I saw in a previous post that you said to call Pelican. Is that still the case?
|
Quote:
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-BZ11X17-RSR Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-BZ11X17-STD You shouldn't have to call. |
I see there is some interest in how the centre caps were done, so I will attempt to explain in more detail.
I started with the Silver Centre Caps part no: 901 361 032 00. I first wiped the caps clean with a clean cloth. I used a micro fibre cloth. I then painted them with 2 to 3 light coats of Killrust Matt Black allowing a minimum of 16 hours between coats, as per the paint instructions. Too thick and it may cause problems when exposing the logo, although the first cap had about five coats while experimenting getting the appearance right. When dry I wet a paper towel with metholated spirits the lightly rubbed (and small areas) over the logo to expose the silver underneath. Metho served to soften the paint enough to rub off. Turpentine may be a bit strong and remove the wrong areas, although I didn't try, again because I didn't have any available. The paper towel is abrasive enough to remove the desired areas. Now the fiddly bit….For the "fine detail", such as the shield edge, I used a scalpel (hobby knife) to gently scrape the edges and some high points that were cast at a different height the rest of the crest. You'd be amazed how uneven the crest is. A gentle wipe with the paper towel with metho every now and then, to remove "debree" and keep the paint "soft". This stopped the paint from chipping and coming away from areas that I want to keep covered in paint. When the crest is finished, wipe with the clean cloth then rub over the whole surface, in a circular motion, with the palm of the hand to remove the matt finish. Again don't rub too hard. The idea is to use the skins natural oils to "polish" the cap. Rub too hard and it's start again !! Check against the wheel for the desired "satin" finish. Once happy that the finish is matched and even, again wipe over with the cloth. Clip into place, ensuring the shield points to the valve cap (for all the concours people out there). For some reason it is actually aesthetically pleasing. Job done ! Cheers PS: After I had finished, thinking I had come up with something different and feeling proud of myself, I found somebody on PP had already done the same thing. Just proves that nothing is new. |
Great results! Sorry if I missed it, but which cap served as the basis for your hand rubbed creation?
My Braids are coming and I want to be ready. Thanks! |
Sorry OldSpool87, I missed that, so I have amended the post,
Thanks |
Quote:
Are the RSR finish BZs sold by Braid UAS finished any differently to those supplied by Braid in Spain? Put another way: If I buy in Europe are they anodized too, or painted soft silver? Thanks, James |
Quote:
There will be 21% VAT in addition as you are still in the EU. |
Resurrecting an old thread here. I have these for sale if anyone is interested:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1073678-new-braid-bz-rsr-17-x-8-9-rims-correct-g-body-cars-big-discount-no-tax.html |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:31 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website