Reinstalling Steering Rack issues

[Tom '74 911]

Hello,

I just rebuilt my steering rack (see this thread: Steering Rack Rebuild - Too Stiff Now?) and am now having some issues reinstalling it. . . it's never easy I tell you!

I'm having difficulty fitting the splined end of the steering shaft that comes from the rack (#17 in the image below) into the universal joint (#29 in the image below) which also has splines. They obviously fit together previously and the splines don't appear to be dinged up on either piece but it seems like the opening in the universal joint is too small for the shaft to slide into. It's in a completely awkward location to get to as well which doesn't help. I've tried to expand the opening in the universal joint by wedging a screwdriver into the slit, but the piece is so thick, I don't think it's expanding much as all.

I'm hoping someone else can suggest a method to get these two back together and happy again that doesn't involve pulling the entire ventilation system and the steering shaft (#28) cover (#32).

Thanks for your help and suggestions!

Tom

[steely]

Hi Tom, I only did this once on my 87. I remember the fun I had trying to lift the rack into the car while getting it into the splined hole and wishing there were 2 of me. I kept some notes (gleaned from other posts here) that might help:
Temporarily support & Re-install Crossmember using long bolts.
Support & Re-install rack. (I think I did this gradually and may have used wood blocks first with shims to move the rack/crossmember incrementally))
Clean and grease the splines on the shaft.
Loosen the upper u-joint and make sure everything is relaxed all the way from lock to lock
so that the universal can slide up the steering shaft as you move the rack up. (I think I opted to NOT loosen the top nut out of fear)
The clamp device benefits being opened a bit. (I used a large screw driver here, twisted it, and rubber mallet'ed the universal assy 'down' to get it to gradually seat. It moved in millimeters at first, then a bit easier)
Tighten the steering shaft split clamp bolt when car is down (after c-member is attached)

I hope this helps a bit.

PS Make sure the rack and steering wheel are centered first as best you can. If not you may be able to make slight adjustments to the wheel and or the tie-rods during alignment. I did a string alignment at home and drove her to my mech for the real one.

[Chuck.H]

When I re-installed my rack a few years ago, I did use a helper underneath to push up while I put the splines in... It was a PITA, AND I had the A/C out at the time. I can't remember, I may have left the intermediate shaft on the rack also and snaked it all up thru the trunk so I'd end up attaching at the top end of #28 in the drawing.

At the time I just removed and regreased things -- I'm about to do it again with a rebuilt rack I have ready.

BTW, to answer your other thread, why is my rack stiff, I think I've finally figured out the operation of the puck,spring and shims. Forgive me if everybody else already knows this, but this is how I think it works:

1. before the puck is installed, the rack sits against the gear slightly loosly - no drag, but lots of backlash at this point.
2. the spring pushes the puck against the rack, deforming the rack and removing all backlash.
3. when you turn the wheel, the rack deforms before moving, pushing the puck down.
4. the puck can only move so far before it hits the shims, at this point the rack moves L-R.

The balance between spring and shims makes a nice tight rack that is easy to move.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 339k miles

[KTL]

Tom,

You wouldn't happen to have the pinch bolt inserted (but not tightened yet) into the universal joint, would you? If so, the bolt will block you from being able to get the shaft to go into the joint.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by KTL

Tom,

You wouldn't happen to have the pinch bolt inserted (but not tightened yet) into the universal joint, would you? If so, the bolt will block you from being able to get the shaft to go into the joint.

Thanks for the replies so far.

Kevin, unfortunately the bolt is removed. . . I wish that were the problem though! I'm having a hard time just getting the dang thing even started. I have the rack mounted on the front cross member which is loosely bolted on, not snug up against the body mounts. This allows enough space at the end of the steering shaft (#17) to at least align the u-joint with the end of it. Having the rack mounted to the cross member gives me something to push against. Theres just not quite enough room to give it a whack or two with a hammer to help persuade it to start sliding on. . .

I'll have a chance to continue the battle later today and this weekend. . .

Thanks again,
Tom

[steely]

I think I declared a victory just getting to this point.

[KTL]

I vaguely remember having this same struggle and I don't recall what fixed it....... I feel like it's what steely said, that the u-joint relaxes after you remove the shaft and it closes up more.

Because I recall removing the entire u-joint and playing with it and the rack input shaft on the workbench.

[Tom '74 911]

This is kicking my butt today. I'm taking a "break" (so I don't "break" something in frustration) and then going back to remove the fresh air blower so I can hopefully remove the whole steering shaft (#28) and install the lower u-joint on my work bench. I'm hoping that will be the trick for me as I can not, for the life of me, get this installed in the car. Hopefully I don't swap the frustration w/the lower u-joint for another w/the upper u-joint! Arrrrggggg!

[steely]

That is exactly what I did/didn't so. I started to work on the upper joint, and then went back to the lower when I saw all of the stuff I had to remove just to get to the upper. Get that clamp opened somehow and it will start. I think I had to shake it and give a lot of taps just to get the thing to move. I don't think the re-installation of the shaft into the u- joint was ever sudden.

Good luck and keep at it.

[Tom '74 911]

I win!

I pulled the fresh air blower, which really wasn't too bad. The speed nuts on the steering shaft cover were the most stubborn parts to remove. Once I had access to the steering shaft, I was able to remove the lower u-joint and install it directly on the steering rack on my work bench. I'm glad I went this route as there is no way I would've been able to get that thing on in the car - it took considerable force. Reinstalling the rack in the car w/the u-joint already attached was much more doable as the upper u-joint connection to the upper steering shaft cooperated and slid on w/out much drama.

The only bugger is that when I rebuilt the steering rack, I clocked it 90 degrees off, so my steering wheel is no longer centered. . . but there is NO WAY I'm taking the rack out again. I will just pull the wheel and hub off and reclock it that way. . . it's always something. . .

On to the next task!

Thanks for all the help, support and encouragement,

Tom

[steely]

Congratulations!

[Ferrino]

I will be reinstalling my rebuilt steering rack soon and, bearing in mind the effort required to release the shaft from the u-joint, the idea of installing the lower u-joint onto the steering rack before inserting it into the car sounds like a good one.

I was wondering: is the alignment of the 2 u-joints (upper and lower part #29 in the diagram) relative to each other important? I am guessing so and they need to be "clocked" in alignment with each other? The above method of steering rack installation would therefore require you to be careful not to lose the alignment.

[racerr1958]

Having just finished this job myself I can add some suggestions.
You need to have steering shaft #17 perfectly in line with u joint, the splines are a pretty tight mesh.
You only have a little movement on the u joint so to line them up you have to lower the rack.
This is a two person job ideally but I did it with a jack holding up the rack. This way you can easily raise or lower the rack and #17 to line things up.
Stick a flat screw driver on the u joint seam and rotate back and forth to engage the splines. This also expands female splines to ease installation.
Make sure the flat side of #17 lines up with the bolt of the u joint.
Once the splines are engaged raise the rack and install the bolt. This will hold the rack up while you finish up with the install.
Once the two bottom bolts are torqued and the crossmember is installed you need to loosen the u joint spline bolt and allow the spline height to relax, otherwise you will be pre-loading the rack.
The two u joints need to be in phase if you took them apart.

[47silver]

Would a rachet tie down work to pull the joints together? I have had success using them to pull up shocks and struts and it may work on this application.