How easy to replace oil pressure sender on my 3.2??

[chrisbruck]

Oil pressure sender appears to be kaput. Read the previous posts about this but didn't see a specific answer to this....

What is my chance of success replacing it with the motor in the car AND A/C in place?

I will pull off the A/C belt. Is it even possible to tackle? Looking for feedback from those who tried and either failed miserably or succeeded with the motor in the car and the A/C in place.

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by chrisbruck

Oil pressure sender appears to be kaput. Read the previous posts about this but didn't see a specific answer to this....

What is my chance of success replacing it with the motor in the car AND A/C in place?

I will pull off the A/C belt. Is it even possible to tackle? Looking for feedback from those who tried and either failed miserably or succeeded with the motor in the car and the A/C in place.

Have a look at this thread:

Another Oil Pressure Sender Replacement Thread with pics

Good luck,

Gerry

[KTL]

Thumbs up to Gerry for pointing you to a very good thread. Don't even consider trying to remove the sender w/out removing the mounting block from the engine case. That section of the engine case is fragile and the hollow bolt isn't exactly all that strong either. I know from experience that the oil pressure sender can be very tight in the mounting block. Muscle-up on that job and you're risking breaking something.

[fred cook]

Don't even think about trying to replace the sender without removing it and the mounting block from the car! When I replaced the one on my SC, the sender was so tight in the brass block that it sounded like a gun going off when it broke loose. Even with the mounting block in a large vise it was difficult to break free! If you were to try this on the engine, you would likely break the aluminum threaded hole in the block. Then you will be looking at a new engine or at least a rebuild on a replacement block.

[john walker's workshop]

here's a good thread to read. i don't recommend the fix though.

Broke of piece of metal, how to fix?

[Germanator]

I am just in the process of doing it. I unscrewed the metal line without removing the AC bracket.
It can be done, but it really is a mental challenge. It takes ca. 1 1/2 hours to unscrew the connection because you can only get ca. 20 o or less with the wrench because of the limited space.
I am just in the process of screwing the metal connection back. Was working for over an hour on it yesterday, and it still needs another 1/2 hour to get it all the way in.....
If patience is not an issue, it can be done!

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by fred cook

Don't even think about trying to replace the sender without removing it and the mounting block from the car! When I replaced the one on my SC, the sender was so tight in the brass block that it sounded like a gun going off when it broke loose. Even with the mounting block in a large vise it was difficult to break free! If you were to try this on the engine, you would likely break the aluminum threaded hole in the block. Then you will be looking at a new engine or at least a rebuild on a replacement block.

+ 1I'm glad I did not. It took 120lb to take the "nut part" out of the block...

Can you say, broken engine case Stuck Oil Pressure Sender

[chrisbruck]

So after reviewing post #2 link / pics, is this how I should properly repair the sending unit with the motor in the car? (A/C bracket may or may not need to be removed???)

1). Unscrew the oil line fitting and move out of the way carefully.
2). Unbolt the hollow bolt on the A/C side of the mounting block.
3). Remove said mounting block and then hold tight in a vice to unscrew the sending unit.
4). Put all back together using new crush washers on either side of the mounting block.

If this sounds correct how tight do you tighten the hollow bolt holding the mounting block on?

[KTL]

1. Oil line fitting is not a tight connection. If it's too tight, it usually leaks! So you should be able to get the camshaft housing oil supply line removed rather easily if you have a wrench that will get in that tight area.

2. The hollow bolt is also not a very tight connection because it is easily sealed with crushable sealing washers.

3. The most muscle you need is indeed to get the pressure sender loose from the block. Putting it in the vise is a must for sure.

4. Yes.

If this sounds correct how tight do you tighten the hollow bolt holding the mounting block on?

The block is square and I think a 1" wrench fits nicely on it. A crescent/adjustable wrench should work in a pinch. You only need to hold the block lightly because the hollow bolt is not tightened very much at all. Just enough to squish the sealing washers. Then when you tighten the cam oil supply line, you again don't need to gorilla tighten it. It's a compression/spherical fitting and doesn't require a ton of force to be leak free and not come loose.

[chrisbruck]

Perfect!.... (now I won't mangle my crankcase either!).

[john walker's workshop]

with my fat fingers and the big carrera aluminum a/c mount in the way, as well as the metal tensioner line not allowing the cam oil line to swing out of the way when you back off the cam line nut from the hollow bolt, i've taken to removing the muffler to get at the two bolts holding the a/c mount to the motor mount console. way easier with it out of the way.