another first time valve adjustment

[Pasophisto]

Hi guys;
I've read 101 projects several times and all of the valve adjustment threads here that I could find.
1987 3.2, 80K.
There is no visible Z1 mark on the pulley. Posts suggest it is obscured by A/C pulley. two marks about 5 degrees apart though, like in the pics. So going with left mark TDC for cylinders 1 and 4. Rotor pointing to the notch at 3:00 on the distributor base.
Have not been able to get our host's feeler gauge in top or bottom of 1 or 4. Have not backed out the adjustment screws yet- time to walk away for the night. So I'm after the critical advice for my early morning start.
I tried inserting the feeler into the backside (between rocker and cam lobe) and could not. I understand that backside gap should be about 50% larger (aprox .06mm rather than .04mm). Is it possible that all four of these are that far out of adjustment (too tight)? The car ran okay before. Though I was concerned about some low rpm "dieseling" under load, that might be my imagination. The car is new to me. I also tried to rock the rockers, and at what I am believing is TDC #1, of all the exhaust rockers, only #2 moved (click test positive). Of all of the intake rockers, only #1 and #3 moved (click test positive).
Your advice would be very much appreciated. What is going on?
Thanks
Sheldon

[K Sykes]

Gap should be .004 inches, sure your metric conversion is right?

Also, backside gap is smaller, not larger .003 no-go, .0025 go, all inch measurements.

[timmy2]

For the backside method you want to use .0025 and a .003 Gauges in thousandths. Or .06mm and .076 mm. (Sounds like you have that covered)
When you are at TDC for cylinder #1 only the rockers for it will move correctly (intake and exhaust)
Watch the rotor as you rotate the crank slowly, you should be at TDC just as the edge at the tip of the rotor begins to line up with the notch on the distributor. You may have gone past just a little using the far left mark. (Depends on the dizzy timing adjustments, Yours may be a little before or after)
Make a mental note to watch the rotor alignment to the notch, then check the marks on the crank pulley for location, as well as try to push/pull the rockers for movement. If they don't both move, rotate the crank a little more and try again
You'll find the right spot.
You could try going to the next pully mark for either 6 or 3 and do the same push/pull thing.
Be patient, it will make sense after you play with it a little.

[sig_a]

First thing is to identify the purpose of all the notches on the pulley, You reference two marks about 5 degrees apart. One of these is what you are looking for. My 1987 Carrera is in the garage and it's too cold to go look. So when you know for sure, mark it with a little dot of yellow paint. Don't believe everything you read here. The notch is not obscured by the A/C pulley.

The feeler gauge should be .004 inch. Don't bother just yet with the back side method . It works well, but first you must be completely familiar with the conventional valve adjustment method. The special feeler gauge with the crook in it works for some and not so well for others. I prefer the standard Sears flat blade, which begins to take on a bent shape to conform to the small space after repeated use. It's good to have both types. Sears gauges are easy to shape to fit. Buy two - one for backup.

There are dozens and dozens of links to first-time valve adjustment procedures. Do more research. Find more pictures. Look at videos. I had the same question about pulley marks but got thru it successfully. And I did the back side procedure, which took two days to complete. I think the name of the author of most of the back side method posts is 2.7Racer or something close to that. Check somewhere on this site. I think maybe the Tech Articles. 0.10mm is the specification. .004 inch is close enough. If you can find a Sears metric feeler gauge buy it rather than the inch. And the longer the blade the better.

[JAR0023]

Just completed my first valve adjustment a month or so ago. I'm no expert but here's what I found.

Follow Timmy's advice and watch the rotor come around as you are approaching TDC. You can also see intake valve on number one cylinder. I have AC and the two marks as well. Watching the rotor cleared it up for me. I also found it good to creep up on TDC to keep from going to far. If your belt is slipping give it a squeeze as you are pulling the wrench.

My valves varied. Some loose, some tight, some in spec. If your one and four are tight you won't ever get the feeler gauge in. You may need to back off the lock nut and loosen the adjuster.

I found I had to bend the head of the tool and the feeler gauge to get the edge of the feeler to line up with gap between rocker foot and tip of valve. I also had the best luck getting the feeler gauge in from the cam side of the valve. Work the feeler into the area between the valve spring and cam and then turn it into the gap using the side of the feeler gauge.

I bought some go/no go gauges as I wanted to try out both traditional and back side methods. After monkeying around with the backside method on cylinder one I put those gauges away. I found the traditional method much easier. I've set valve lash once or twice and bearing preload a whole bunch so the ideas of setting and counter holding the adjuster against the lock nut make sense to me.

Once you're done go back around and double check your work. The first two cylinders I set too loose and needed to readjust. Third through sixth and I had the hang of it. Second time around will go much faster.

I used a couple of different screwdrivers depending on how much room I had to work with. An offset box 13mm would've been nice to give little more working clearance around the valve cover studs and for my knuckles.

-J

[Pasophisto]

All good advice- thank you.

I noticed that the rocker seems to protrude more on the exhaust of #4 than on the exhaust of #5, when I have the crank at TDC for #1- which I understood to be the same as #4. That confuses me. Could it be adjusted so tight that the valves are not seating closed at TDC?

SMS

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Pasophisto

when I have the crank at TDC for #1- which I understood to be the same as #4. That confuses me.

It is the same mark but it isn't the same TDC. The crankshaft spins twice for every rotation on the distributor. So TDC for #1 will be firing #1 while the intake valve is being opened for #4.

[Pasophisto]

Thanks Bob.
On it now.
SMS

[Pasophisto]

Hey, just finished doing the adjust. going to take a break now and then check them all. Went great! Thanks for all of the terrific advice. Really helped the confidence level. Satisfying work.
Sheldon

[maui44]

Sheldon,

Just did my first valve adjustment and the second time you go through them it's easier. If you are like me you will have to make some adjustments.

I used both the backside and traditional methods to do mine. In the end, the backside may be a little easier to do however, it's nice getting "the feel" using the traditional method.

For the future, you may want to take some nail polish or paint and I.D. all the notches on your
pulley. It is imperative you I.D. and mark Z1 or TDC. Without it 1 and 4 will not be adjusted properly.

Good luck