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Separating transmission from engine to replace clutch with upgrade. It is out of the car for easy access. Took the bolts off easily. Having trouble removing the clutch cross shaft from the release fork. Have removed the retaining bolt. Screwed a bolt in the end of the cross shaft and attempted to gently hammer the shaft out. Penetrating oil does not seem to help. Don't want to use excessive force if not necessary. How do I get the old shaft out so I can replace it with the upgrade and new clutch?
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Vaccinated and Boosted
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,588
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There is a roll pin that connects the fork to the shaft. You must knock this out then the shaft will pull out.
Good luck! mg This was on my 83 SC, not sure how different it is on an 89!!
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2013 911 Turbo S 2025 Lexus TX350, 2024 Honda CRV Hybrid 1930 Cadillac V8, 1991 Ford F250, 2023 Chevy Colorado And some garage space.... |
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The set up between 83 and 89 changed. Thanks for your help.
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I just did an 88 model. I screwed a long bolt into the shaft's threaded hole, and put vise-grips on the end of the bolt, then tapped on the vise-grips with a hammer.
Can you tell whats binding? Is the fork arm free on the shaft? Mike |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Seems like that shaft can occasionally stick in place. Force is sometimes necessary to get it out. Try the mild tapping/slide hammering like Mike suggests. If no joy, try something with a big more leverage like a homemade puller. A deep socket, some threaded rod and some washers can go a long way toward making a really good puller.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Project Addicted
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Shore. MD
Posts: 919
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We welded a bolt to a slide hammer to pull it out. Took some real force and 6-8 good shots to get it moving.
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Jon 1966 912 1976 911 3.4 Backdate Project 1986 944 |
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The cross shaft just does not want to move. I am assuming the bolt actually screws into the shaft and the bearing surrounding the shaft are held in place with tension.
I welded together a long 6mm bolt with a sliding hammer on it. Don't want to apply too much force should this method be incorrect. If penetrating oils, heat, hammering is the cure, will continue cautiously. The fork appears to have little if any tension on it. Is there a clip to release? |
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If it just slides out, I won't be so afraid of using some force. thanks
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 458
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As mentioned, attach a bolt and use a slide hammer. Let it sit overnight with penetrating oil if needed. Don´t apply too much force because if you break off one of the ears on the case you´re screwed. GL.
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'87 911 GP White "casper" '79 930 Copper Brown Metallic "beast" '93 968 Amazon Green Met "moby" '97 Esprit V8 "flat eric" '97 993 Speed Yellow "tbd" |
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Mine has the updated version, but no retainer. The bearings slide into collars cast into the transmission. Its either the bearings on the shaft or the fork holding the shaft.
Mike ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,575
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Had same issue on my '88. Theres a thread with a trick but basically you assemble some washers then use a threaded rod screwed into the shaft with a nut on the end the exert pulling pressure on the shaft and it pulls out through the washers. Its hard for me to describe but I can see it in my mind perfectly. I'll try to find the thread. Mine was really stuck in there firmly.
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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Project Addicted
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Shore. MD
Posts: 919
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Mine was really crusty and once started moving slid out ok. As I said, it did take some force to get it started. Make sure to install a new kit .
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Jon 1966 912 1976 911 3.4 Backdate Project 1986 944 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,435
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spray penetrating oil liberally. the slide hammer eventually gets it out, but BE CAREFUL!!! hard pounding can break the ears off the bellhousing, then you're in a world of hurt. gently tap and be patient. better to take 1/2 hour than break stuff in 30 seconds.
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(man/dude)
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It's been a few year now but I had to do it too, and it was a bit nerve wracking. Penetrating oil, leave it forever, you can't use too much at this point.
Perhaps someone can chime in here but what if you give it a little tap in the "wrong" direction first? |
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Thanks everyone for all the help. Seems like I need a lot of patience and penetrating oil. Will do the upgrade.
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(man/dude)
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Oh yes the upgrade.... I did that too. Also, the reason I ended up having to do mine was not clutch wear, one of the ears broke off the throwout bearing.
I have never heard of this happening to anyone else, but it might be cheap insurance to make sure you replace throwout bearing. I got the updated no-drill cross shaft update kit from our host (works/fits great), also the updated guide tube. I saved several hundred dollars by getting a new genuine sachs clutch kit from ebay, and "while I was in there" I decided to get a new factory flywheel too. The whole thing ended up being expensive, by the time I did all that and took care of a bunch of stuff on the motor too, intake gaskets, sensors, etc. |
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