Removing front inserts

[theclaw]

I am swapping out my front inserts and I heard (I think it was EPN) that I could remove them without undoing the lower ball joint, just undo it from the top and swing it out. It looks like I also have to disconnect the tie rods. Any tricks or pitfalls to watch out for?

Thanks,

[Daviboy]

You can do it by just removing the top nut at the strut mount, compressing the insert and swinging out just be careful of the brake lines. I have just completed this on my car.

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by Daviboy

You can do it by just removing the top nut at the strut mount, compressing the insert and swinging out just be careful of the brake lines. I have just completed this on my car.

Thanks. Brake lines are already disconnected because I'm putting new disks on the front also. I just tried them a few minutes ago. Nuts are really stuck. I don't think they've ever been moved from the factory. Going to let them soak in ATF/Acetone for a while.

[john walker's workshop]

big channel-locks on the nuts. takes some grunt.

[KTL]

Helps to have a helper counterhold the strut at the disc or knuckle. Or if no helping hands, a big ol pipe wrench on the strut tube works. Unless teeth marks on your strut tube bothers you.....

Also, if you have Boge struts, be prepared for some strange looking guts to come out when you pull out the shock shaft. Couple of big rags/old t-shirts your wife keeps telling you to quit wearing because they make you look like a slob, come in handy to absorb the oil from the strut tube.

[theclaw]

Keven, They're Bilstein struts so I think these slide right out. After is soaks a bit I can zap the nut with the impact driver but a counterhold with a BFWrench makes sense.

[rusnak]

The top nut would best be done with an impact wrench and a socket.

The bottom nut is easy with a big pipe wrench and a cheater bar.

The pitfall is in the tie rod ends. You would be well advised to rent or buy the tie rod tool, so as to not destroy the rubber boot on the tie rod end. With the right tool, it pops free with zero damage to the tie rod, boot, and not even a chip on the paint on the steering arm.

[KTL]

There is no bottom nut on Bilsteins. They only have a top nut to secure the shock shaft into the chassis mount. The bottom of the shock is just a shaft (these are inverted) that is pinned to the bottom of the strut tube with a tension pin- way down at the bottom near the ball joint connection. You have to knock that tension pin out with a suitable sized drift or punch or drill bit.

DO NOT try to remove what looks like a nut/cap on top of the strut tube. That is a pressed on dust seal that you don't want to damage. Also take a look at the tightness/free-play of the shock in the tube. If it rocks slightly back and forth making a knocking sound, the sleeve bushings inside the strut tube may need replacement. The shock insert will tell you if there might be some wear, based on the appearance (or lack thereof) of witness marks/rubbing.

I don't disconnect the tie rod ends. Turn the wheel like Ed said to direct the shock shaft to best allow you room to get it out from under the fender.

[KTL]

whoops.........

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by KTL

The bottom of the shock is just a shaft (these are inverted) that is pinned to the bottom of the strut tube with a tension pin- way down at the bottom near the ball joint connection. You have to knock that tension pin out with a suitable sized drift or punch or drill bit.

Sonofa*****!

That pin at the bottom is a bugger! Can't seem to get it out. I have bent two bits (old and dull) in the process. It looks like it goes in/out form either side and the side I'm pounding on looked the be the end that went thru the strut.

I also have an issue at the top. The left side didn't want to come off and as I hit with the impact (right side came off very easily), the tab on the top disk broke off and chewed up the top of the strut a bit.












I'm thinking just take the whole thing out and stick the strut housing in the drill press. Then I risk having to replace the ball joints which are only a couple of years old.


Damn!

[KTL]

Use heat my good man. Heat does wonders to free stuff up. Don't hesitate to use some penetrating lube too.

Funny aside to your troubles, the lower pin on my racecar's Bilsteins are safety-wired thru the hole in the pin and wrapped around the strut tube. I'm sure you'd say that's the stupidest thing ever, given how hard it is for yours to come out?

Ah that sucks about the top washer. I have a couple of spares in my collection of nuts & bolts. Lucky for you I was sorting nuts & bolts this past weekend and saw them in the big washer bin! I like the keyed top washer because it lets you torque the nut to 60 ft-lbs or whatever the number is. Without the big wide keyed washer, you're just marginally tightening them. My monoball strut mounts are like that- no keyed washer of any kind on top, nor any exposed threads above the nut, to counterhold when tightening.

Just run a tiny file along the threads to clean them up. Always works good for me.

Ball joint pins and the wedge bolt should come out pretty easy if you recently replaced them? Always a good idea to put a slight amount of anti-seize goop on the pin, wedge bolt and shock pin to make future disassembly easier. When those parts seize in there from rust, you're exactly right that they can create additional grief on perfectly good parts!

[rusnak]

That's why you take the big nut off the bottom. Take the strut to the workbench. Pound out roll pin on bench.

[Scott R]

Get the correct sized roll pin punch and it comes out easily. Drill bit's and odd sized punches will mushroom or further expand the pin in the housing leading to much swearing.

[KTL]

Originally Posted by rusnak

That's why you take the big nut off the bottom. Take the strut to the workbench. Pound out roll pin on bench.

Ah, see, you have to be clear what nut you're talking about. You're referring to the ball joint nut on the A-arm, correct?

[KTL]

Originally Posted by Scott R

Get the correct sized roll pin punch and it comes out easily. Drill bit's and odd sized punches will mushroom or further expand the pin in the housing leading to much swearing.

DOH, I didn't know there was such a tool. Another new thing I learned today......

McMaster-Carr

Thanks Scott!

[Nine9six]

Banging on a high speed steel drill bit is not advised. These things can/will shatter with resulting shrapnel. Get the correct size punch!

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by KTL

Ah, see, you have to be clear what nut you're talking about. You're referring to the ball joint nut on the A-arm, correct?

Yes, Sir! I would leave the balljoint on the strut, and simply remove the bottom nut and take the thing over to a very sturdy bench. And pound that rollpin out with a hardended punch as Nine9six suggests.

[175K911]

It is done. Jeff made a correct 7mm punch and the inserts are now out.

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by 175K911

It is done. Jeff made a correct 7mm punch and the inserts are now out.

Yeah, Thanks for stopping by Ed.

Earlier, as I was talking to a guy at NAPA looking for a 7mm drift he said something about allen wrenches. Then it dawned on me I had some cheap spares from Harbor Freight laying around. I cut the handle off an 8mm wrench, stuck it in my drill and spun it around as I ground it down with the grinder. Made a perfectly sized (and hard) drift to pound out the pin. Worked like a champ.

Then Ed shows up and gives me some pointers on how to compress the shock and pull it out. Inserts are packed and ready to ship to Chuck Moreland tomorrow.

Thanks for all of the input.

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by KTL

Ah that sucks about the top washer. I have a couple of spares in my collection of nuts & bolts. Lucky for you I was sorting nuts & bolts this past weekend and saw them in the big washer bin! I like the keyed top washer because it lets you torque the nut to 60 ft-lbs or whatever the number is.

Kevin, I just might take you up on that offer!