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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Posts: 3,722
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AC Hose Replacement Help
Howdy.
I was stupid in having my mechanic replace one leaking ol red cloth hose, charge the system up only to enjoy the airconditioning for a few hours! Another hose break downstream broke! Big bucks down the drain!! Now I figure why not try to replace the hoses myself. After all how difficult can they be to fish out, take to a hydrualic hose or AC shop and replace them and re-install? But, this is a new and different game for me so if anyone can answer a few questions I could certainly use the help. 1) Just how hard is it to fish out the hoses, say from the compressor to the evaporator or drier? If I cut the fitting off to let the hose come thru easier am I in for a hard time getting the new fitting back to where it goes? 2) Are any sealants, lubricants or waterproofing material used on the fittings (threads) before they are screwed together that may make release hard? 3) Is there a torques spec for the fittings as they screw together or just a good hand tightness? 4) Hose material.............what can I expect to pay per foot and for new crimped on fittings? ANYONE IN THE SOUTHEAST (ATLANTA) RECOMMENDED? I am going to stay with R12, since the compresor is updated, I have a front and rear condenser and Atlanta is hotter then H@#$ so optimum cooling is critical. I will let my wrench do the refill. Thanks for any input. Regard Bob 73.5T (dealer installed factory AC - 1973) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Bob,
Do a search on air conditioning and seadweller. Michael in Tampa did a complete A/C system a month or two ago and detailed it very well. He had the fittings crimped on one end of the hose, then pulled them through the car then had a local shop complete the final hose end and crimp, vacuum the system down and put the gas in. He used www.ackits.com for hoses and ran them himself, but it was not a completely stock unit, so was a bit different. Several guys in this area have used ackits as well and they are very good. Everytime I need a/c parts they always have them and at a good price. Remember to replace your dryer if its been open to the atmosphere... Joe
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB Last edited by Joeaksa; 07-10-2002 at 09:47 AM.. |
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Slumlord
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,983
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Search the archives for R12 replacements. Even if you don't stick with it it might be worth trying for 30 days, make sure your system is 'fixed' then buy your freon. I think it was posted by 'r22tech'.
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Novato, CA
Posts: 4,740
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Bob,
I went through the same frustrations getting my system to work but I didn't have to abandon the old red hoses. My leaks were coming from where the fittings screwed on the hose. If you're having the same problem, you might unscrew the old fitting, cut off an inch and screw it back. I had two hoses that leaked like that, one at the rear condenser and the other at the evaporator. So far my A/C is still blowing cold after two months. Keeping my fingers crossed, Joe |
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Toxic
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Hey Bob,
I know of a place on the south side that makes a/c hose. (Barber Air) Or try Hydraulic Supply in Forest Park 404-608-0995, they carry a new at home kit made by Aeroquip called E-Z Clip. I haven't tried it myself yet, but it looks real good.
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Bruce 88 Carrera Coupe, 12 Dodge Ram Hemi, 69 Barracuda Fastback, 68 Barracuda Convertible 5spd The only substitute for cubic inches is cubic dollar$. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Posts: 3,722
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Thanks everyone............
When I returned to the shop this morning after dumping a bundle on the single hose replacement and R12 charge, we added compressed air but could not hear a leak. It was not until two more cans of R12 was added did we see the oil dripping from a hose under the car. It was the hose from the compressor to the evaporator in the smugglers box. Looks like a tight fit and tough to get to. I might as well replace them all as I expect them to blow one after the other downstream. Those original red cloth lines are ad brittle as a candy cane! Regards Bob |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Bob,
Agree with PBH and I would try the alternative gasses long enough to confirm that the system is leakfree and then see if you want to drop the cash for real R-12. I have been using the ES-12 in my car and have outlet temps of 40 degrees right now, so cannot see any real reason to switch. Also the alternative fuels are based on molecules that are larger so do not leak out as easily (or so I am told by the a/c guys)! Joe
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,125
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I have a 73.5 T with Dealer AC, front and rear condensers and the Sanden Compressor upgrade (and a 3.0 SC motor). I live in Atlanta and the AC does not work. I am investigating replacing the hoses righ now as well!! I thought I was reading a post that I had forgot I made!! What a trip.
I just talked to a guy called the Hose Wizard. All he does is AC hoses. He is not real familiar with 911s but gave me ball park pricing. He seems very knowleadgeable and used the term "barrier" hoses which Griffiths talks about. It sounded like if I took the hoses out and carried them to him it would cost $200- $250 for the set of 5. I think I will only need 4 one looks to have been replaced already. He gave me general pricing like this Long ones ~ $80-$100 up to 3 feet ~ $45 In between ~ $65 I figured there are probably 2 long ones and a short and a medium (??) I think I will only need 1 long one. I have never heard of trying the alternate refrigerants - that sounds like a great idea. Couple of questions - 1.) Do most shops have the alternates in stock? 2.) Any problem with seals degrading etc. for just a short stint? Hope this helps. |
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Slumlord
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,983
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My understanding is that most shops don't want to use replacements since they all contain propane or some other 'explosive' gases.
I thought there was a post here about mixing propane and isopropane to make your own replacement. (You really want to go cheap, you might as well mix your own refrigerants at home.)Anyone remember it? R22tech where are you? (or was he r12tech?) |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Lac La Biche, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 951
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Hummmm. 500ml of propane/butane vs 95 litres of gas.
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Slumlord
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,983
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I didn't say it made sense. People worry about stupid things sometimes.
Here is a post from the R-named web-site by Steve W ''Propane with 20% isobutane works great as a R12 replacement. It is actually more efficient than R12. I use the mix in my vehicles, and I know other Porsche owners who do too with great success. You won't hear much from them here because they want to avoid being flamed as I was when I initially mentioned the alternative. It seem the only people who are strongly opposed to it are those in the automotive AC industry, for it obviously detracts from their business. I mean, how much can you charge a customer when you charge their car with $1 worth of propane? Those that oppose it site the flamability of the gas, however we are talking about 12 oz of propane compared to about 100 lbs of gasoline. Propane is fairly difficult to ignite, especially when it vents as a liquid and purges completely within a couple of seconds in the event of a collision. Want to know more? http://www.vettenet.org/acfaq.txt" {Go to item 17 in the link.} Anyone out there care to risk a 'flaming'? |
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Registered
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Guys,
I replaced the high pressure side of my system with 3/8 OD copper tubing. Although a lot of people don't think it is a good choice, it does the job and is easy to install - cost - $15.00 No vibration and if it gets damaged, it can be repaired or replaced. I removed the old refrigeration line on the discharge side of the system. Had a new flex hose made up from the compressor to the condenser. Used a portion of the existing hose from the leaving side of the condenser to just forward of the drivers side wheel where I converted to copper. Ran the rest in copper to the dryer and continued on to the evaporator. If any one of you are interested in taking a look at it, send me an e-mail and maybe we can we can find a convient place for all of us to meet. I will be going out of town this Friday so the weekend is out and of course, I will be going out of town the following weekend. Steve |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tampa Bay Area, FL
Posts: 880
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Running the hoses is not a difficult job. I cut the ends off the old one's, and pulled them out! I then ran the new hoses, and had the fittings put on afterwards.
All the hoses for my car ran around $80, delivered, from ACKITS.COM. They're great folks, and their BBS is invaluable. The fittings should cost no more than $10 each installed. It's quite hot here in Florida, and my A/C is still blowing icicles!!! I'm a pretty happy camper!!
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Michael '98 Boxster in Ocean Jade Metallic |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Tim P,
You are correct here... every one goes ape ***** over the alternative gasses having propane in the mix yet no one seems to worry one bit about 22 gallons of gasoline sitting over our feet and legs. One cut or broken a/c line and the gas will escape, with or without flames and in a few seconds. One good impact and the fuel tank will rupture, and gasoline will envelope the car and pax if they do not get out in time, taking everything in its wake. It does not take Einstein to tell which one is more dangerous and we have lived with it for the past 100 years. Go on Ebay or the internet and look for ES-12 or Freeze-12 and you can find lots of info on this alternative, and save a bunch of money in the process. Joe
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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