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I strongly second contacting Bob Ashlock post 15 above. Great guy, great service. Has done 5 for me and one for a friend. Fast and very reasonable. Most important, he's honest.

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Old 04-12-2013, 02:42 PM
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I'd give Loren a call.

Systems Consulting...Automotive Electronics.....

Best!

Doyle
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:59 PM
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not saying i dont trust him but you cant really trust anyone these days... so can anyone vouch for Targa Time having good stuff and being trustworthy?
Old 04-12-2013, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Taylor View Post
not saying i dont trust him but you cant really trust anyone these days... so can anyone vouch for Targa Time having good stuff and being trustworthy?
Yes you can trust people these days if you have a half a brain and common sense.

I've come to the conclusion that some people deserve no help and are truly clueless; Warren, you would be that person.

You've been provided a number of options and someone steps up to sell you what he says is a functional unit and instead of engaging with him directly you basically dis him in public...sheesh if I was him, I wouldn't sell you anything.
Old 04-12-2013, 04:43 PM
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I have recieved some PM's to buy the CDI. I sold it to Warren. I know it was way under priced but I felt like helping the guy out. The unit certainly wasn't doing me any good sitting on the shelf in my garage.
Old 04-13-2013, 03:37 AM
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Sounds like this is resolved. Good that Targa Time was able to sell Warren a functional unit. Warren did contact me expressing interest in getting it repaired, but then he went dark, I assume because he was able to just buy a replacement unit.

Just to be clear about what I do with these units, I first visually inspect and test and if I determine it is non-repairable (for example, the pc-board is badly burned), or find it is already functioning properly (which occasionally happens) I will return it for no charge other than shipping. If I determine it is repairable, my typical cost is $100 - $150, depending on the problems found. In general, the components originally used by Bosch are pretty good, especially considering the era of manufature. But, often times these units get damaged by improper connections, over-voltage, etc. Varying levels of disassembly are required, depending on what component has failed. If the big energy storage capacitor is bad, I replace it with a high-quality pulse-rated polypropylene capacitor that is considerably more rugged than the original Bosch electrolytic part. These boxes come out of a manufacturing era where components were still hand-wired and soldered. Once they are together, it takes quite a bit of unsoldering of wires, etc. to get them apart for service. My guess is that back in the day, Bosch really intended them to be replaced as a unit, rather than being returned and serviced. I'm probably not charging enough to repair these things, but this is just a little side-business for me and I like to help out other Porsche enthusiasts and get the side-benefit of name-recognition for my Tach-Adapt product. Home
Old 04-13-2013, 10:00 AM
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At least Bosch didn't dip them in tar like PermaDoom did....
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Ashlock View Post
Sounds like this is resolved. Good that Targa Time was able to sell Warren a functional unit. Warren did contact me expressing interest in getting it repaired, but then he went dark, I assume because he was able to just buy a replacement unit.

Just to be clear about what I do with these units, I first visually inspect and test and if I determine it is non-repairable (for example, the pc-board is badly burned), or find it is already functioning properly (which occasionally happens) I will return it for no charge other than shipping. If I determine it is repairable, my typical cost is $100 - $150, depending on the problems found.

In general, the components originally used by Bosch are pretty good,

No way! Several components are known to be operating far to close to their factory specifications.

especially considering the era of manufature.


Yes, agreed, back when this wa sdesigned it was very hard to find components that met the design specifications. More often than not the design had to be compromised below that desired due to the lack of non-marginal solid state components.

But, often times these units get damaged by improper connections,

over-voltage,

I'd bet that the most common failure is related to long term overcharging the battery, ALTERNATOR/vr failure.

etc. Varying levels of disassembly are required, depending on what component has failed. If the big energy storage capacitor is bad, I replace it with a high-quality pulse-rated polypropylene capacitor that is considerably more rugged than the original Bosch electrolytic part. These boxes come out of a manufacturing era where components were still hand-wired and soldered. Once they are together, it takes quite a bit of unsoldering of wires, etc. to get them apart for service. My guess is that back in the day, Bosch really intended them to be replaced as a unit, rather than being returned and serviced. I'm probably not charging enough to repair these things, but this is just a little side-business for me and I like to help out other Porsche enthusiasts and get the side-benefit of name-recognition for my Tach-Adapt product. Home
I would suggest buying a MULTI-SPARK MSD and CDI specific coil, TRANSFORMER type coil, rather than rebuilding a Bosch with KNOWN marginal components, SCR and inverter transistor.


http://accel-ignition.com/ignition-electrical-and-wiring/ignition-coils/e-core-supercoil-cd-ignitions.html

Last edited by wwest; 04-13-2013 at 11:05 AM..
Old 04-13-2013, 11:00 AM
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Some of the components inside the Bosch units are NLA....or so I have been told by a good friend. Not to mention the connectors and the boxes themselves.

As such...non repairable boxes still have SOME value for otherwise NLA parts that are still good.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Bob View Post
Some of the components inside the Bosch units are NLA....or so I have been told by a good friend. Not to mention the connectors and the boxes themselves.

As such...non repairable boxes still have SOME value for otherwise NLA parts that are still good.
Insofar as I am aware there is NO NLA part that doesn't have a much better, improved specifications, modern day substitute. But it's unlikely that Loren would have the know-how to do the appropreate substitution, stuck in the DARK ages.
Old 04-13-2013, 12:43 PM
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Wasn't referring to Loren. I was referencing the replacement of parts when repairing the Bosch unit. I believe my statement is correct.

Considering the costs and mods needed to swap out the Bosch unit, repair is still a viable option. I have no dog in this hunt, just my experience and opinion.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:50 PM
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When swapping in a used Bosch CDI is it best to send it out for inspection/rebuilt or just install and send out if the 911 doesn't run right (or start at all)?
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:19 AM
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As an Electronics Tech...I have been asked many times to give a customer a break.
One time...the boat owner (I was working on his Radar) asked me how much the repair and upgrade was going to cost...and I told him about $200.
He sort of freaked...and this was on a $75K boat!
He wanted me to just give him the parts...so I did...and charged him $.25.
Then he wanted me to show him where to put the parts...and I told him...that's what the $200 was for...knowing where to put the parts...LOL.
Pay fair price...deal with fair people (like many here) and enjoy the ride.
Bob
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:43 AM
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you might find one at Parts Heaven or EASY
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:56 AM
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I believe Barry Hershon (IAE Inc.) makes an adapter allowing you to plug in an MSD 6AL without a lot of extra wiring. I was going to convert my car a while back (Blaster Coil also) so had him make me one when he rebuilt my dizzy.. he did a fantastic job on the dizzy.
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Last edited by GaryR; 11-24-2013 at 10:40 AM..
Old 11-24-2013, 10:25 AM
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Bosch CDI disassembly

How do I take the CDI apart to replace the transistor? I have removed all of the screws from the bottom. This is a 227.200.008 with a bad power transistor. Please reply directly wa3vez@comcast.net. Thanks.
Old 12-20-2013, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wa3vez View Post
How do I take the CDI apart to replace the transistor? I have removed all of the screws from the bottom. This is a 227.200.008 with a bad power transistor. Please reply directly wa3vez@comcast.net. Thanks.
Be sure and check that the 82 volt zener has not failed or is marginal. 25 ohm impedance when "fired". Run with high alternator voltage for long enough, the zener overheats and goes TU, the 2n3055 fails shortly thereafter.

Old 12-20-2013, 01:55 PM
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