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dazed and confused
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Almost ready to drop, but...
...there are a few items I can't quite figure out.
I want to disconnect the speedometer wires at the transmission rather than the tunnel (grommet is in there pretty tight) but unsure of where the wires and sensor terminate on the transmission. Picture below is on the driver's side...(left) Is this it? ![]() If it is, do I just remove the retaining clip and let the sensor hang or are there wires to disconnect? Secondly, do I need to remove the backup light wires? Can I do this at the transmission too? The picture below is on the passenger side...is this it? How do I disconnect this? ![]() Thanks in advance, everybody. The threads and responses here have been a real source of support and motivation! John
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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Been here a while
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: East coast, west coast, typ. 35,000 ft
Posts: 2,442
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Yes, those are them.
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looking for 1972 911t motor XR584, S/N 6121622 |
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83 Targa
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For speedo just loosen and rotate the retaining clip and tuck speed pick up out of the way. its less work then working tunnel connections for sure. I have done both.
Leave the reverse light wiring attached if you are removing engine and transmission together and then disconnect prior to removing transmission from the engine. |
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dazed and confused
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Speedo sensor removal
NoYouRelax,
Thanks...didn't realize BU light wire was between tranny and engine...I am planning to drop T&E as one. One more step saves! As for the speedo sensor, bolt and clip are out but sensor doesn't want to budge...twist? Pull? Pry? How is it held on? Magnets inside the case? This is the last step....then comes the fun! John
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,529
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pull straight out, a little pick may help
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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I am my 911's PO
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Take note of which way the speedo sensor is installed (which side faces out). It will fit both ways, but only one works. BTDT.
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1978 SC - original owner 1983 SC - D stock "rescue" track car DECEASED 2015 Cayenne Diesel (rear ended by distracted driver) 2017 Macan (happy wife...) 2016 Cayenne Turbo - tow vehicle and daily drive |
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dazed and confused
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it's out!
A little out of focus, but then so was I...
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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83 Targa
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Awesome!.... Let the scrubbing begin... I tried many degreasers and found kerosene is the best. I also steam cleaned the compartment. Are you doing a clutch?
I think you will find that the engine goes in easier than it comes out but tons of F bombs get dropped while trying to keep the CV bolts and threaded holes grease free. |
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dazed and confused
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NVR,
Thanks for the support...hadn't thought of Kerosene...paint thinner working well at present...will try your approach if I struggle. Right now, paint scrapers and spatulas get the bulk off...thinking the torn CV boots replaced at purchase might have been spewing grease everywhere...at least I'm hoping that's the cause of this mess. Also, cleaning the lower case to see if oil weeping through the casting (as per Bentley) is a contributor. I do plan to pressure wash the compartment with everything masked off. No plans for a clutch...shifts well and no heaviness...major clutch overhaul done by PO #2 (I'm #4) at ~ 33K miles....hoping they did the G-50 upgrade...might peel the tranny back and take a peek. Glad to know it goes in easier...I was singing as we were lowering this thing on the pallet jack (that was/ is great-stable and can be raised to waist height) but wondering how the #$%^ am I gonna get this thing back together! As for the CV's, seems everyone replaces the bolts...mine look pretty solid...not sure why I need to. There were no Schorr washers...just the "half-moons"...but this is what is shown in the breakdown of the G-50 so I think I'm OK....
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 2,010
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As long as the bolt-heads are ok (Allen fits in nice and tight) there is really no reason to replace your CV bolts. I finally had to, but it was because of the loose fit of the allen bit to the bolt.
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Christopher Mahalick 1984 911 Targa, 1974 Lotus Europa TCS 2001 BMW 530i(5spd!), Ducati 900 SS/SP 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250, 2015 Yamaha R3 1965 Suzuki k15 Hillbilly, 1975 Suzuki GT750 |
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83 Targa
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Make sure when you put the engine back in that the starter does not smash the heater duct. I read about that and did not remember it until I rewired the starter and saw the mess. I added the Schnorr washers and half moons as it made to much sense and it was cheap.
Also, if you can borrow an ATV jack, there is less of a balancing act to put the engine back in. I bought one on CL for $50 and it worked great especially since I had to do 2 drops in 6 weeks. |
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dazed and confused
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CCM,
Good to know, I think if they can take the torque without destructing I'll keep them. Any thoughts on using the Schnorr washers? NYR, Thanks for the heads up...I didn't see that thread re the starter. What did you torque the bolts down to with the washers? I was thinking about an ATV jack but then it dawned on me we have a little-used mid-rise pallet jack at the shop. The forks span 27" wide and are 48" long. Put a piece of melamine on top of the forks; got the car level and low, brought the forks up to the HE's and she came down like an elevator....no drama at all.
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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Smoove1010
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Nice work - I totally envy all the working space you have there. What was your primary reason for the drop, just a general cleanup? I too settled on paint-thinner/mineral spirits just as you have. An occasional blast of brake cleaner helped out in some spots. I've got a bucket of worn-out small wire brushes to show for the effort. In the engine compartment I tried steam, purple-power, detergent, etc., and went back to using mineral spirits a section at a time.
The pallet jack seems perfect for the drop task. I'm on the backside of my drop project - 87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End, re-assembly is getting to the point where I can see an engine-tranny install in my near future... I re-packed my CV joints last year and have the same bolt-plate config that you do. When I did the drop I was happy to see that the CV bolts were still tight - no sign of any loosening at all. Good luck! GK |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
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its less work then working tunnel connections for sure.
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dazed and confused
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Smoove,
Thanks...it's a three-bay garage...my Jeep gets to stay outside for the time being! The drop WAS mainly two-fold... 1) to address a continual fouled plug condition in cylinder 6 (weep-age from the case? leaking cooler/ triangle? valve guides?-horrors!) 2) to easily remove trailing arms for rear bearing replacement. Groaning from the rear got pretty bad last season; didn't want to try and replace in the car..rather R/R on the bench. ...but as with most things on this forum, it has morphed into a "while you're in there" project. Paranoid about fuel lines, intake vacuum leaks, G-50 upgrade...was it done by the PO? valve adjust, cam-line oil restrictors, sound pad...I'm sure they'll be more. Seeing the filth though says something is clearly not right somewhere....I dread finding out but hope it's merely grease spewed from cracked CV boots....we'll see! Thanks for the link to your thread...I'll be reading this tonight...looks like you've been around the horn! Best of luck with your install! John
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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Smoove1010
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Quote:
Be careful on that slope... |
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83 Targa
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John,
I just went 5 ft-lbs tighter on the CV bolts with the schnorrs. I also added the half moons since my '83 did not have them. Is that a dark green Targa? I want a G50 Targa upgrade and I am doing a lot of browsing. I am a fan of the coupe lines, but who doesnt want to just take the top off? |
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Registered Loser
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If you remove the trailing arms for the bearing replacement you will have to get an alignment done afterwards.
The bearing are pretty easy to remove while on the car. There are some threads including mine. My engine is coming out in a few days. I have "drop envy" right now!!
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Current Rides:: 1987 Red 911 Targa, 2007 R320 CDI, 2003 Red Dodge Ram Hemi, 1993 Beater Jeep Cherokee, Airbus A320 Gone but not forgotten: 1981 VW Scirocco S, 1989 Honda Accord Coupe LXI, F-16C (still my favorite vehicle!),MC-130P, C-130E, T-38, T-37, C150, C172, PA180 |
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83 Targa
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Whiz... LOL at "drop envy". I have no envy. It was a cold cold winter in my garage......burrrrr.
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dazed and confused
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NYR,
good idea on the such Schnorrs over the half-moons...will certainly add that to the reinstall list. It's a black exterior with champagne interior...not quite what I wished for but the car had just had a full glass-out / new seal / new glass respray and was 10 miles from my home! I too love the coupes for their lines and stiffness, but top off is what its all about for me...and I'm only getting to all this now as it WAS a cold winter! Whiz, I had first considered bearing removal while in the car (have the "home depot" tools all ready) but decided to drop the engine to address a number of items as well so I'd rather R/R the bearings on the bench....have access to an arbor press. Enjoy the drop...it's a GREAT feeling...now, how do I get this thing BACK in there...!
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89 Carrera 3.2 Targa 2011 BMW 335d 2013 BMW X3 3.5 80 911 SC Weissach Coupe (Sold) ![]() |
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