any idea how to replace these lines?

Trakrat · 03-20-2018, 10:02 AM

I need to replace these lines due to the corrosion. One of the lines (I think) is a fuel line, the other goes to the clutch slave cylinder.
Do I need to replace the entire length of the line? Not sure what is involved, so any guidance is appreciated. thanks

jimtweet · jimtweet's Garage

That is fuel line and return fuel line. They run the length of the car inside the tunnel. Engine and transmission have to come out in order to replace

Dmitry at Pelican Parts · 03-20-2018, 11:20 AM

Take a look at the link below to an earlier thread where this is discussed - there should be some guidance as well. Best of luck!

The Ultimate Fuel Line Replacement Thread

john walker's workshop · 03-20-2018, 11:24 AM

Sleeping dogs....

Trakrat · 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimtweet

That is fuel line and return fuel line. They run the length of the car inside the tunnel. Engine and transmission have to come out in order to replace

Actually.. the fuel and fuel return line is the 2 in the back... the larger one in front goes to the slave cylinder. (the other fuel line is behind the larger one in the forefront of the picture, hidden in the shadows)

Trakrat · 03-21-2018, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Sleeping dogs....

I agree... I'd rather just leave them alone, but since I have everything out and am getting ready to do some serious cleaning, I figured if they need to be replaced, now is the time to do it.

What's your take on the corrosion?
Do you think I could just clean off the surface rust and hit them with some rust repellant spray?

old man neri · 03-21-2018, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trakrat

I agree... I'd rather just leave them alone, but since I have everything out and am getting ready to do some serious cleaning, I figured if they need to be replaced, now is the time to do it.

What's your take on the corrosion?
Do you think I could just clean off the surface rust and hit them with some rust repellant spray?

I just went through this and this is an amateur's opinion.

If your engine and transmission are in place I would just let them be, don't brush the rust off, just coat them in fluid film and let it be.

If your engine and transmission is out it's a different story. Replacing that slave rubber line and slave cylinder if original is probably not a bad idea unless you damage the other part of the line trying to separate it...then it was a bad idea to touch it. I had to be creative to get mine off. Expensive slippery slope of parts replacement when you drop your engine.....

As for the fuel line, if the entirety looks in good shape leave it. Rust on the fitting doesn't concern me, rust on the line does. The return fuel line has a rubber section on the other end. If that part is original 30yrs old you may wish to replace it based on age alone.

Again, I'm an amateur but I have live in salt/rust areas my whole life and can tell you that rust on the fittings aren't a concern, it's rust on line that will leak.

quattrorunner · quattrorunner's Garage

I'd just wire brush them

KTL · 03-21-2018, 09:35 AM

Both of those lines are the fuel lines. One is supply and the other is return. Return is the line that has the rubber section at the engine end, where it connects just to the left of the fuel pressure regulator. That rubber section is what'll determine your course of action in my opinion. I think I posted this video on another of Trakrat's threads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5AEbQy4HOQ

The other thing pictured above is the throttle rod linkage. The metal "bulb" at the right side of the rubber accordion is a coupler that also acts as a vibration isolator. That coupler is known to occasionally fail. So it's worth a look at it by sliding the accordion off the bulb and making sure the isolation piece inside the bulb is firm and doesn't have a ton of slop in it. A new bulb has some slop in it by nature. But it shouldn't be super loose, feeling like its going to fall apart.

The clutch slave line is on that same side of the trans and easily identified by a rubber hose that transitions to a steel line further up .

steely · 03-21-2018, 09:36 AM

I replaced my slave cyl line when I had to do the clutch master and slave. The tunnel part was fine (metal I think). Piece of cake and you'll have to do a bleed.

I did the fuel lines with eng/trans in b/c the rubber hose portion north of the tunnel were going.
I used a method found here: How hard is it to change the fuel lines?

I did not do the fuel line portion from the tunnel (shown) to the filter (yet).

Trakrat · 03-21-2018, 12:43 PM

thanks all... what I'm trying to figure out is... how do I replace this? The fittings look so corroded that I don't know if they are supposed to turn, twist off or what???? and do the replacement parts come with the new fittings?

I can't find what these part #s are? (FYI... I have 2 fuel lines and 1 slave cylinder line in this pic).

The only part I did find on our host is just a generic 'central tunnel fuel line stainless steel' with no other information... not sure WHICH line this is even for.

old man neri · 05:50 AM

Someone double check this but;

Return 911-356-085-05
Supply 911-356-083-01
clutch line 911-423-177-03

It's unfortunate I just threw my old ones out about 2 days ago. I could have taken some good pictures of the ends for you. They should be similar to brake lines. Expect to have to destroy the old fitting to get it off. You must save the fitting that is on the line coming out of the tunnel at all costs.

KTL · 03-21-2018, 02:04 PM

old man matt is correct with all three part numbers

The fuel hoses are in Main Group 2 Fuel & Exhaust (logically in the fuel system section) of the PET and the clutch line is in Main Group 7 Transmission control, Hand Lever System, Pedal Cluster (in the pedal cluster pages)

RFP · RFP's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trakrat

< snip >

What's your take on the corrosion?
< snip >

Wow, 'Rat, are these lines on your '87? Salty roads up there in Kansas? Maybe not as bad as they look.

Trakrat · 03-22-2018, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RFP

Wow, 'Rat, are these lines on your '87? Salty roads up there in Kansas? Maybe not as bad as they look.

the car was an east coast CT and NJ car almost all of its life. Was sold in Florida and shipped to Connecticut. Eventually made its way to Michigan where I found it.

BoxsterGT · 12:02 AM

I can help with both the Feed and Return Rear Hardlines AND the Tunnel Lines for your Carrera if needed. The line in the middle and the one hidden underneath are the (2) Fuel Lines.

Recently I was told these Rear Hardlines were NLA, but perhaps you can still get them through Pelican or Porsche.

I think that person meant the SC Rear Hardlines, as I am reasonably certain they are NLA.

I have E-85 rated Replacement Hoses for these Rusted Hardlines. Pretty easy to remove the old hardlines by cutting them, and easy to snake in the Hose replacements.

Please email me ONLY. NO pm's.

len.cummings at verizon dot net

BoxsterGT · 03-22-2018, 10:39 AM

Here is what this Euro Flare fitting looks like.....

With Steel Lines the Flare connection works well, but makes for difficulty in replacing the ends. My photo shows an adapter I make to connect to standard Hose end fittings, in this case M14.

The Flare fitting is the same at the top and the bottom. The Hex part should rotate on the Green Steel (now rusted) line. The fitting for the Tunnel line is fixed and should not turn.

Hope this helps.

Len