Problem with replacing Oil Pressure Switch

[koolkozak]

Hey guys, I am trying to replace the oil pressure switch (due to what seems to be the cause for an oil leak). I took the CIS air boot off from the top and my car doesnt have a blower system in place so i have a lot of room to move and am able to reach the oil pressure switch, although I ran into the problem with what i think is a metal engine oil line??? going on top of the oil pressure switch. Therefore in order to get my deep socket onto the oil pressure switch I need to remove this line.

I loosened the hose clamp at the end of the oil line but it is not budging. I tried to pry it off a little bit with a screw driver but it is still in place and not flexible enough for me to move in order to get to the oil pressure switch. Any advice on how to get this line off? and CAN I TAKE IT OFF or will i get an oil spill in my engine bay from the line when it slips off?
In advance appreciate your help. but wont appreciate someone telling me to drop the engine
Heres the picture looking down at the switch from the top of the CIS intake..

[timmy2]

The metal pipe in the way is the AAR supply line to the CSV mount port.
It is in the pictures I posted in your other thread for leaking fuel line.There are at least 3 devices it is attached to that stop it from moving.
If you force it, the plastic mount at the CSV base has been known to easily break. Then you will have a constant vacuum leak.
There are reasons people advised you to remove the CIS intake system to repair it and then fix everything else you can access while it is out.
Try a crowsfoot wrench and extension to remove the switch if pulling the intake is out of the question.
Replacing the thermostat o-ring and breather outlet gasket are normally done at the same time as replacing the switch and seal. (with the intake off of course...)
Good Luck!

[koolkozak]

i seeeee. so that hose clamp that i unscrewed at the end of the AAR supply line is there for extra protection? doesnt make sense that it wouldnt come off after I unscrewed the clamp..whats the point of the clamp then?

does the AAR supply line come off with the intake? Can i partially take off the intake so that the line is slightly out of the way? I just need like 10 mm worth of clearance for the deep socket to perpendicularly go over the oil pressure switch.

I guess im going to have to read up on how to take the intake off. Do i need to replace any seals, gaskets when its off? or can I take it off and put it back on?

[koolkozak]

and thanks Dennis, i feel like youre the only one helping me out with my car. Did you call dibs on the new guy (me) haha. Where are the rest of the helpful people?

[timmy2]

That pipes short rubber fitting is probably stuck quite well to the fitting after 39 years. Just like a radiator hose does after 10 years! The clamp is there to keep it on the fitting.
The AAR lines and everyting n the way will come off wth the intake.
Disconnect all wiring to the devices before removal.
I PM'd you a list of things to replace while the intake is off a day or 2 ago. Maybe add the CSV o-ring and mounting plate o-ring.
Everyone here will help when they have an answer or, when they have seen that you have fully researched your question by reading, searching, reading and searching some more.

This is a great community with the best depth of knowledge for these cars that I've seen in any car forum.
Sarcasm, impatience and doubting responses to information requests can and will stop a lot of great people from providing answers.

There's a picture of what you will see with the intake off here:
Finally, back in the game!

[Jcslocum]

I'll try to be helpful.....

To me (and this is the interwebs so we all get to shout our opinions) that oil switch does not appear to be leaking, at least from that picture. I would expect it to look more wet than grimy. If I were to suspect a leak from that pic, I would be looking harder at the breather or something towards the upper right. I see oil and grime up higher than the oil switch can get to.

Good luck and this is just my .002

[Peter Zimmermann]

This is why a partial engine drop is normally done to check/repair/replace the oil pressure switch and thermostat o-ring. Drain the engine & reservoir oil, remove the oil line ("S" hose) at the reservoir along with any other oil line that gets tight during engine lowering, disconnect any wire harnesses and fuel lines as needed. Remove the cover under the carpet at the rear of the car's center "tunnel," (4 screws) in order to access the shift coupler. Remove the allen head pin screw and disconnect the coupler from the transmission shift rod. Disconnect the lower (under the car) heater hoses at the heat exchangers, and lower the engine (remove the two outboard 12mm engine mount bolts - with jack secure under the engine!) until access is adequate - don't go too far.

Remove the cold start system including hose/line assembly pictured, clean the area, and then replace the thermostat o-ring and switch. Carefully examine all of the breather hoses for deterioration, replace as necessary. Check/replace the throttle lever bushings (as necessary) on the throttle linkage console. Clean and lube throttle linkage ball cups at console and throttle body. Assemble. Torque 12mm bolts to 65 lb/ft. Don't forget to "tuck in" the engine bay rubber seal, upper flap goes on top of the engine tin, lower flap goes alongside/under the engine tin. Be careful when raising the engine into position that you don't get wires/fuel lines, etc. stuck between the engine and body.

Don't trust your floor jack to support your engine for an extended period, always add support using a jack stand, wood blocks, etc., under the lowered engine while doing repairs.

[koolkozak]

Thanks fellas. since it is my first time looking into the front of the engine, I think im going to replace my fuel linethat is currently out due to leakage, and start the engine, drive around, and then see where the oil is leaking from. Then Ill attempt to replace the switch. I may or may not renew this thread once im at that point. Thanks for all your help. Dropping the engine sounds like a lot of work. Also the intake seems like there are a lot of things i need to disconnect and reconnect, I dont know if i want to mess with it. But it would be REALLY nice to get it off and clean everything up and replace the things you advised. BIGGG DECISION. Im going to weigh my options. I appreciate all of your help

Dennis, so that rubber end of the tube may be taken off after all(if its just stuck on there)??? with enough (careful) work put into it? WD40 to the rescue? haha

[timmy2]

If I was to attempt what you want to try, I would also disconnect it where it enters the AAR at the outer end on the intake manifold and the AAV pancake valve lower tube so that it has some flex to be able to move.
The time you spend to do that would have you more than 1/2 way to removing the entire intake!
Your choice, 3-4 hours to fix one line and maybe change the oil sender or the same amount of time to do the partial drop and pull the intake and fix everything, then another 3-4 hours to put it back together and be worry free...
Decisions, decisions...