Yikes Spring in Drain Plug!

[O' yeah"74]

I know I'm a newb but I'm at a loss. I purchased my dream car Feb 6th 2013, from my cousin. It's a '74 2.7 rebuilt at Aase Motors in '06. Any ways I just changed the oil for the first time today. Warmed her up came home pulled the oil reservoir plug, drained it things were fine, removed filter, replaced reservoir plug, moved oil bucket under the engine drain plug (center of engine toward the front end). Unscrewed drain plug (17mm) and it released under pressure from spring which also contained a brass tube that was flared on one end and another r small piece (similar to a donut with a groove around the perimeter then flattened). Oil drained from hole as expected but I was NOT expecting any spring assembly. What is this I can't find any info? I have been looking. Did I screw up? After letting all oil drain I reassembled the spring, brass tube and brass donut thingy in what seemed to be logical order and then replaced in bottom of engine. Refilled with BP 20-50. No leaks and thing sound and seem fine except my oil pressure is STILL high 100-120+ ..... I can't figure that out either. Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Sorry so long.

[timmy2]

Post a picture of the plug you removed in it's normal location.
I can't picture what you removed as I would have thought you would just remove the plug from the sump cover.
What type of engine?

[fred cook]

Sounds like he pulled the oil pressure relief valve, Probably the one on the bottom of the block. The one on the side does not have the spring guide rod. No problem, really, just put it back together. The valve (cup shaped piece) goes in with the open end out, then the spring, the guide rod with the flared end towards the bottom and then the plug with the sealing ring. The spring is pretty strong. I've found the easiest way to put the plug back in is to use a socket the plug will fit in with some wadded up paper towel in the socket to make it shallow. Put an extension on the socket so you have something to grasp and turn with. The paper in the socket will make the round plug turn with the socket. Hope this helps!

[irobertson]

That is the oil pressure relief, NOT the drain plug.
Based on the pressure you are seeing, my guess is that you didn't get it back together properly, and the secondary one is working to save your cooler etc.
Here is an exploded view.




The drain is in the middle of the sump plate at the bottom centre of the motor.

[Jerome74911S]

On a '74 2.7 the oil drain plug is not in the center of the engine at the front. It's on the left side of the sump plate, and that is in the center of the bottom of the engine.

Please send pictures.

[O' yeah"74]

I'm kicking myself for not taking a pic before reinstalling. Doh!..... I will post a pic, but it will have to be tomorrow (1st thing). It a '74 2.7s there is no plug on sump cover like on others ( I think '73 and older???).... In stead,if I'm correct in that this is indeed the engine oil drain plug, it's further forward still in center but close to trans. A pic is worth a thousand words and I need a pic.

[O' yeah"74]

Thanks Fred cook and Irobertson. This clears things up I'll get on this first thing tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

[O' yeah"74]

Approximately how much oil will come out of engine? I'm guessing 2-3qts. I just put 9qts of Brad Penn in the reservoir and only have three left.

[kugelfischer]

You'll probably want to pick up a copy of Wayne's book "101 Projects for Your Porsche 911".
You'll find it an excellent resource for about 101 basic-advanced repairs (including oil changes).

Good luck in getting things back to normal. Shouldn't be too big of a deal.

[aus911]

For info, some of the 2.7 "sump" plates don't have a drain plug, you are supposed to remove the complete plate.
I tried to install one with a drain hole on my car but there was clearance issues, so each time I changed the oil, off came the sump plate, so new gasket and nuts were required. Hope this helps.
Cheers
Ray

[aus911]

Here is a pic from this site showing the style of plate used on some 2.7 engines, they need to be removed to drain the engine oil, makes a messy job messier!!

[O' yeah"74]

Here is a pic from this site showing the style of plate used on some 2.7 engines, they need to be removed to drain the engine oil, makes a messy job messier!!

Yup that's exactly what mine looks like. Great now I get to order more stuff (ie gasket and nuts) ........ Only $100 to change my own oil.<<<<< sarcasm alert.

[O' yeah"74]

Can anyone provide a picture of the pressure release valve Fred Cook is referring to, so I can properly reassemble mine or confirm I did it correctly. Irobertson's diagram isn't clear enough to see, I'm not sure it's the correct oil PRV. Thanks

[rsscotty]

Shown below is the picture from a previous post. The cup on top of the spring may have fallen out after you took the spring out. It can fall in the oil unnoticed. It sits on top of the spring ( like an upside down glass ). Re-assemble as per the picture.

[timmy2]

Yep, pressure relief valve, exactly what I was thinking when I asked for a picture.
I didn't know some 2.7's had no drain plug in the sump.
Later years they put it back on there.
(I'm glad my '78 has one....)
I'm surprised no one has designed a mod to put one on there. A simple spacer ring perhaps?

[O' yeah"74]

Thank you everyone you all are awesome. I will have some work to do tommorrow or when I get a gasket and nuts for sump plate. Thanks again, I'll keep you all updated.

[James Brown]

hate to bother but, might want to check out the pelican parts page PRIOR to doing even simple work, along with a proper maintenance manual. If you don't get that pressure relief put back togeather in the right way and with the right shims, you could do serious damage to the engine.
Porsche 911 & Carrera Oil Circulation - Page 2
ask first next time

[Walt Fricke]

In its original '74 trim this mistake would be unlikely to happen, because the oil pressure setting spring was held in with a sort of screw driver plug. Without a special tool you could only loosen or tighten it properly with a pipe wrench. For rebuilds and general checking, the later plugs with a hexagon base are much nicer, but can lead to this mistake more easily. I had a friend contact me because he had done exactly the same thing on his 3.2 engine. It has the oil drain plug over on the left side of the case.

The cover plate went out at the very end of 3.0 SC production. The case dies had worn out, so the very last of those motors got the then new 3.2 case.

I think that it was mid to late SCs which didn't have a drain plug. The earlier SCs had an oil pickup problem, so the pickup was redesigned, with the screen integral to the tube and pump. This fit closely to the hemispherical plate, but left no room for a drain plug without dimpling the screen.

The 2.7s of my acquaintance used a plate which was much flatter, and, properly oriented, the drain plug was to the left side of the opening.

But with a shop rebuilding the motor, no doubt they installed what they believed, doubtless correctly, were better mousetraps.

[O' yeah"74]

hate to bother but, might want to check out the pelican parts page PRIOR to doing even simple work, along with a proper maintenance manual. If you don't get that pressure relief put back togeather in the right way and with the right shims, you could do serious damage to the engine.

Porsche 911 & Carrera Oil Circulation - Page 2

ask first next time

Thanks, I did actually read Wayne's oil change article first, but it didn't mention having to remove sump plate in certain cases so I went to what look like the most reasonable and really only other choice. Wayne even mentioned it wasn't uncommon to have different sized drain plugs so it didn't surprise that the reservoir plug was 19mm and what turned out to be the oil PRV was 17mm. My Haynes owners workshop manual also was no help in my situation, as it gave no pictures or info on my set up i.e. (what to do if no drain plug in sump plate). I'm still looking for proper reassembly diagram the ones posted here and the diagram in my Haynes manual don't exactly match so I'm not convinced I'm dealing with the exact same part on my car. The brass tube that came out of oil PRV is flared/belled on one end, the pic in the diagram show NO flared/belled end. I also found no "cup" piece, I'll strain my used oil just to be sure. Since I'll be taking the oil PRV back out to double check, I'll post pics. However, if some one has pics of exactly what I'm dealing with with an exploded view I'ld love to see them before I get back into this project. Your right about 101 projects for your 911, I need that too. Wayne actually has a vacation home across the street from me, he also suggested it. I'll get it soon. Cheers, Dustin

[O' yeah"74]

Good news. I just spoke with Jeff at Aase Motors (where the engine was rebuilt)and after describing what I did it seems that I reassmbled the oil PRV correctly. Bell side of brass tube seated against drain plug with spring over tube, the piston did not come out so I just reinserted and tightened. All seems good no leaks and same pressure as before oil change. Only bummer is I've mixxed 9qts of Brad Penn 20-50 with 3qts of dirty old 20-50. Oh well I will run this for a little bit and then change again soon. Next time I'll pull the sump plate............ Live and learn.