torque wrench reccomendation

[steely]

So I did a lousy search mostly because I was impatient - came up blank.
I purchased a couple torque wrenches from sears a few years ago - am familiar with the concept, and am used to really nice calibrated products from work (can't recall any of the names 'cause it is a weekend and the techs use them mostly) - but now I am ready to get a good one.

The powerbuilt model I purchased has slowly started to fail - first the lock gizmo went - now the teeth are starting to strip - really unsafe if you put some ooopmh behind it and like to risk crushing knuckles. Think shock absorber torque 92 ft-lbs.

Can anyone recommend a decent torque wrench for the amateur that lasts but doesn't degrade quite as fast? I realize the terms may be mutually exclusive, but I see the wisdom in paying for a good tool once.

Thanks so much,
Dan

[kodioneill]

Two words "Snap On" expensive but no doubt the best.

[winders]

For 3/8" and 1/2" applications, I prefer the Precision Instruments split beam type torque wrenches. This company makes the Snap-On split beam torque wrenches with flex heads.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/C.php

Scott

[James Brown]

and you don't have to go with the best snap-on, i have the electronic one but i don't like it as much as my old beam type. Click type can get out of cal so it's mostly up to best value and weather you can get it calibrated. Check ebay, craigs list for good deals

[steely]

Guys - thanks so much.
I think I will stick with the 3/8 variety only because they are common for the type of work I mess around with - anything higher would be used less often and I would hand over (that type of work) to a pro.
I thought of snap-on - the distribution part (like where to get'em) had me, but ebay and craigs list are good starts.

Thanks kodi', Scott and James - seen you around - I know you'd know and am appreciative. (just wish could score tonight (a torque wrench that is ;-)

I may not say it often enough but this place is awesome thanks to folks like you.

[docrodg]

Just go with a sears split-beam. They come calibrated and split beam wrenches almost never go out of calibration unless damaged.

[ChrisBennet]

I think it is important to have a 1/2" torque wrench for torquing lug nuts and occasional home defense.

I keep my "nice" torque wrenches for engine building but I have a Sears 1/2" clicker that I use all the time for lug nuts. It's also a good wench to take the track - it's not the end of the world if you forget it on pit wall and the plastic grip won't scratch fenders.

[Ronnie's.930]

I have had one of these for several years - expensive, but once you use it, you will wonder how you did without one. I also got one for my "old school", 70 year old father, and he loves it.

TECH2FR100, Torque Wrench, Electronic, TECHWRENCH®, Flex Ratchet, 5 to 100 ft. lbs., 3/8" drive

[steely]

I like the clickers because I'm old (not that I feel it). Not sure I cold hold the split beams long enough to don glasses and read them accurately, and I don't race (except when I do assh*le maneuvers on the highway). Realty is hitting me in the face because 400 smackers seems like a lot for my purposes, but I will look at that the recommendations seriously.

home defense - yeah buddy! they'd take it off me LOL!

[winders]

Originally Posted by steely

I like the clickers because I'm old (not that I feel it). Not sure I cold hold the split beams long enough to don glasses and read them accurately, and I don't race (except when I do assh*le maneuvers on the highway). Realty is hitting me in the face because 400 smackers seems like a lot for my purposes, but I will look at that the recommendations seriously.

home defense - yeah buddy! they'd take it off me LOL!

Split beam torque wrenches are not deflecting beam torque wrenches....split beams click too.

Did you look at the link????

Scott

[Dixie]

Now for the dissenting view...
IMO the split beam is over rated. The wrench itself is great, but the ability to set it to a specific torque rating is limited. It's analogous to having a 50 cal. sniper rifle with iron sights.

I use my Precision Instruments split beam for torquing lug nuts at the track. I use my Sears and Lowe's clickers for engine work. I find "warming up" the clickers is not that big a deal.

[Algernon]

Anyone know of a deflecting beam type still available? The cheap 0-150ft.lbs are poorly marked ( arc shape does not follow same beam radius) , and 0-75ft.lbs are identical except for only 1/2 scale (not greater resolution). They have benefit that you can see instantaneous value as you pull, are cheap and last forever - until mine was lost/stolen(?)

[steely]

Originally Posted by winders

Split beam torque wrenches are not deflecting beam torque wrenches....split beams click too.

Did you look at the link????

Scott

i did now - thanks

[m110]

I am a huge fan of Stahlwille torque wrenches. They are the absolute top quality. When you get on an Airbus airplane, it was assembled with Stahlwille torque wrenches.

When bought new they are expensive.

But, they are available on ebay.

They make a wrench that is click style and begins at 130Nm and goes to 600 Nm.

Unlike other brands it does not need to be set back to 0 to keep its precision after every use.

Furthemore, its precision is within 3 % at the extremes of range. I have mine calibrated at 130, 400 and 650 and it is dead on.

The lower range is convenient for lug nuts which are 130 Nm spec. Other big torque wrenches aren't precise at the extremes.

For less money, one can venture into plenty of other brands that are precise and accurate for much less money. There is a recent thread on Harbor Freight precision that is impressive for a 1/2 in model. Mac, Proto, KD, armstrong all make instruments that do the job well.

The issues are 4-fold.
1. Cost
2. Precision: the ability for the wrench to indicate the torque you specify (how close to the bullseye)
3. Accuracy: the ability for the wrench to indicate the torque on a repetitive basis (how tight is the group around the bullseye)
4. esthetics: electronic, split beam, click, and angle techniques (this is how massive fasteners are torques: the angle after a certain point is measured....what one might do for a GT3 centerlock if they don't have a massive torque wrench)

[steely]

Originally Posted by docrodg

Just go with a sears split-beam. They come calibrated and split beam wrenches almost never go out of calibration unless damaged.

who makes those? Under what brand, Sears? I don't recall the craftsman, and sears is where I got the powerbuilt if I am not mistaken.

[steely]

Originally Posted by m110

I am a huge fan of Stahlwille torque wrenches. They are the absolute top quality. When you get on an Airbus airplane, it was assembled with Stahlwille torque wrenches.

When bought new they are expensive.

But, they are available on ebay.

They make a wrench that is click style and begins at 130Nm and goes to 600 Nm.

Unlike other brands it does not need to be set back to 0 to keep its precision after every use.

Furthemore, its precision is within 3 % at the extremes of range. I have mine calibrated at 130, 400 and 650 and it is dead on.

The lower range is convenient for lug nuts which are 130 Nm spec. Other big torque wrenches aren't precise at the extremes.

For less money, one can venture into plenty of other brands that are precise and accurate for much less money. There is a recent thread on Harbor Freight precision that is impressive for a 1/2 in model. Mac, Proto, KD, armstrong all make instruments that do the job well.

The issues are 4-fold.
1. Cost
2. Precision: the ability for the wrench to indicate the torque you specify (how close to the bullseye)
3. Accuracy: the ability for the wrench to indicate the torque on a repetitive basis (how tight is the group around the bullseye)
4. esthetics: electronic, split beam, click, and angle techniques (this is how massive fasteners are torques: the angle after a certain point is measured....what one might do for a GT3 centerlock if they don't have a massive torque wrench)

I would add a fifth - longevity

[ChrisBennet]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

I have had one of these for several years - expensive, but once you use it, you will wonder how you did without one. I also got one for my "old school", 70 year old father, and he loves it.

TECH2FR100, Torque Wrench, Electronic, TECHWRENCH®, Flex Ratchet, 5 to 100 ft. lbs., 3/8" drive

I have the same wrench. The only thing I don't like about it is that it kills batteries. I have to take the batteries out of it when I'm not using it. I think it is overkill for someone not building motors.

[ChrisBennet]

Disclaimer: I'm not an authority on this topic, but I am an engineer.

I wouldn't get too carried away with the accuracy specs. When you get right down to it, torque is a very crude way of stretching a fastener. Something like up to 80% of the torque applied goes into overcoming friction. A new washer vs an old washer, a lubricated thread vs a dry thread, even a first tightening of a fastener vs the 4 th tightening of the fastener will probably make more difference than the accuracy specs of whatever wrench you get.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by ChrisBennet

I think it is important to have a 1/2" torque wrench for torquing lug nuts and occasional home defense.

I keep my "nice" torque wrenches for engine building but I have a Sears 1/2" clicker that I use all the time for lug nuts. It's also a good wench to take the track - it's not the end of the world if you forget it on pit wall and the plastic grip won't scratch fenders.

For me the 1/2" torque wrench is essential for both tightening and and removing the wheel lug nuts. I has a nice lon handle and with a precision deep 19mm socket taking wheels of and putting them on is a breeze. Also good for removing and tightening the steering wheel.

[HarryD]

At the risk of a lynch mob:
Is a Harbor Freight Torque Wrench Really Bad?