Engine has no spark - HELP

[Techdaddy]

Today I started my 1984 Porsche 911 to go for a ride and as I was warming the car up, it died. I tried to re-start it with no luck. At first I thought it was just low on gas so I put in about two to three gallons of gas and it still wouldn't start. So I took out one of the spark plugs wires and checked the spark and it has no spark. I know there are a few things that I can try replacing such as the DME or the 3.2 sensor but I would hate to replace those things and still have the same issue.

Another interesting thing is when I turn the key to the off position, I'm still getting power to my windows and sunroof, etc,. with a faint brake light and oil indicator light. The gas gauge is still on as well?

Please provide any/all input.... all is welcome!

[HawgRyder]

Sounds like it's time for a new ignition switch...at least the electrical side of it.
Bob

[Techdaddy]

Originally Posted by HawgRyder

Sounds like it's time for a new ignition switch...at least the electrical side of it.
Bob

Bob, that sounds like a good starting point since now I’m having some strange electrical problems. I’ll keep y’all posted.

Thanks,
Ron

[Techdaddy]

After inspecting the ignition switch it appears to have been changed. Also, looks like an alarm system was removed as well. Classic splice with plastic coupler job!

Do anyone have an easy way of doing this without removing the Steering Lock Mechanism?

[kodioneill]

Might not matter but... When you turn the ignition on then off you can operate the windows up or down until you open one of the doors there's a holding relay in the circuit so it's normal operation for the windows to work after the car is off and the key removed.

[Discseven]

Techdaddy... the center conductor in the distributor can snap off and everything works but for spark. Might be an easy check before tearing into other things.

[Techdaddy]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

Might not matter but... When you turn the ignition on then off you can operate the windows up or down until you open one of the doors there's a holding relay in the circuit so it's normal operation for the windows to work after the car is off and the key removed.

Still doesn’t explain why there’s a faint brake light and oil indicator light. The key is not completely turning off power. Had to remove the ground from the battery

[Techdaddy]

Originally Posted by Discseven

Techdaddy... the center conductor in the distributor can snap off and everything works but for spark. Might be an easy check before tearing into other things.

I removed the cap and even cleaned and blew it out.

[Techdaddy]

Actually it looks harder then what it is. Removing the Shear Bolts is the hardest part, really didn’t have to remove the steering wheel. Now I’m just waiting on parts

Even though I ordered another set of shear bolts I’m going to use Allen bolts instead… Just in case I need to replace the ignition again

[thumbdoctor]

I would be checking the amperage draw at the ignition switch terminals before installing a new unit. You may have something drawing too much.

[Techdaddy]

Well, I was able to find the culprit lying underneath my seat! It turns out after unplugging and taping the main/fuel pump relay I was able to get the car started.

Also, I was able to fumble with the ignition switch to sort out the electrical side of it, which still needs to be replaced. Probably best to replace the main/fuel pump relay as well!

[Techdaddy]

I do have another question; does anyone know where the two brown wires are for? They look like they go together, just not sure?

[HawgRyder]

Brown wires are normally ground.
Perhaps the chassis is grounding the relay and sensor? in the pix.
Or....the brown wires ensure that ground is applied properly and consistantly not just the relying on the mounting screws and bolts to chassis.
Bob

[Techdaddy]

I did a Google and found some interesting info on those brown wires.


The words “free horsepower” and “Porsche 911” rarely go together, but we found something for our 1984 Porsche 911 Carrera. Our car was originally sold in California, and the options sticker includes the code C03: California car. We gleaned some good info from a post on the Pelican Parts message board by chip tuner Steve Wong:

“If you look in the specifications of an 84-86 owner’s manual, it will show that 49 state cars are rated at 207 hp, with a 0-60 at 6.1 seconds. A California car is rated at 200 hp with a 6.7 sec 0-60. The only difference is the connection of the pin 10 brown wires on the DME harness which retards the ignition timing for reduced NOx, and eliminates any fuel enrichment for lower HC and CO, effectively also killing throttle response. These wires are also connected for Japan spec cars. The DME chip remains unchanged. The emissions label under the engine decklid will also specify California emission approved. In the interest of performance, just disconnect those brown wires!

“The above only applies to catalyst spec cars, and not to ROW 3.2s without an O2. In the ROW 87-89 cars, those wires are used in conjunction with a ROZ adapter to select from one of three region coding maps within the DME programming.”

The DME (also known as an ECU) is located beneath the driver’s seat, and that brown jumper wire can be found at the front of the unit. Access is super-easy, and the entire process took us about a minute.

Afterward, the engine seems smoother and torquier, while the car definitely feels a tad quicker. Just hopeful wishing? We’ll be sure to test this one with some real calibrated equipment.

[Techdaddy]

Originally Posted by HawgRyder

Brown wires are normally ground.
Perhaps the chassis is grounding the relay and sensor? in the pix.
Or....the brown wires ensure that ground is applied properly and consistantly not just the relying on the mounting screws and bolts to chassis.
Bob

Thanks Bob