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Continuous popping while idling - lean ? rich ?
I'm having trouble adjusting the mix / pressures:
Latest symptom: while idling and stopped there's a continuous popping from the exhaust... Indicates rich or lean condition ? Car was not fully warmed yet. |
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Year/model/miles?
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1974 sahara beige 911 targa 1982 chiffon 911sc 1985 prussian blue metallic carrera |
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1974/S/many
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Is it a popping or "puffing" backfire? I had puffing which was like a mini backfire but not noisy when I had an air leak at the base of one of my intake runners. Happened all the time.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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It's really a pop-pop-pop similar to the small backfires you can have when your decel valve is not connected and you lift suddenly. But here it was continuous.
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Before I start rambling, did this symptom start after you made some adjustments to pressure and mixture?
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Yes, after.
But now I know its rich. The wur heating element isnt working so it takes a lot of time to reach oper temperature, so mix remains too rich too long. Back to the gauges again. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Try a hair dryer on it to warm it up quicker. just a thought.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cape Vincent, NY
Posts: 841
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Double check timing too. A retarded timing can cause a small amount of the pop as well but be hard to detect at high rpm. Reason is fuel burn not complete when exhaust opens giving a pop or huff.
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1968 911S "Leona" Air goes in and out, blood goes round and round, any variation on this is a bad thing. |
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I have the grandaddy of WURs - the 001
I just opened it and it's a bit different inside from the newer ones. Later I'll post pics and a probable explanation. This one has an additional resistance inside that seems to cut power to the element when it heats... From a german Bosch document I get this description: einsteckbarer elektrischer Anschluss aus kunststoff mit Zusatzwiderstand 3 ohm Google translates it as: insertable plastic electrical connector with additional resistance 3 ohm Any better translation out there ? Luckily, the heating element tests ok with the multimeter. Last edited by prebordao; 08-23-2013 at 02:35 PM.. |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 338
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Can you post photos of the -001 wur internals and describe how you disassembled (and presumably will reassemble) it? My -001 works, but the warm control pressure is a bit low. Have thought about opening it up to see if a general cleaning might help. And maybe there's some way to make modest adjustments to the WCP.
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--Richard 1965 356 SC Coupe |
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I just opened a new thread for the disassembly.
They're fully adjustable for warm and cold. Warm - screw on bottom Cold - pin |
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