A/C removal help

[krshome]

I have a 1988 911 Carrera that is mainly used for DE. I would like to remove the A/C system since it hasn't worked for over 15 years. I would like to keep everything so it could be put back in if I ever sold the car. I hear removal of the hoses is a real PITA anyway. If I leave the hoses how are they capped off and what components should I remove?

[Bob Kontak]

Removal of hoses is PITA because you actually have to do some work.

Get under there and get the crap out. The hoses are heavy. Why would you want to cart those around?

[Arne2]

Agreed. The hoses on mine probably weigh as much or more than the compressor does. I'd yank them out, and not even worry about saving them. If anyone in the future should want to restore the A/C, they'll want new hoses anyway.

[kuehl]

Some things are worth removing:

Hoses & clamps, just put the screws back with a dab of black RTV.
Although the hoses are non barrier (if OE) and most replace them,
you could keep them and mark the ends so you know what goes
where, cap off the ends (there will be residual refrigerant oil a quite
a few of the 5).
Toss away the drier, keep the drier strap and ditto the screws.

Remove the front condenser and crash card, cap off the condenser.
Remove the front condenser blower motor assy.,
Block off the intake hole behind the front bumper, block of the outlet hole (make these block offs temporary; no permanent glue or new screw holes.

Pull out the evap box and brackets, cap off evap and TEVV,
block off the RH plastic trapezoid intake and the LH round intake.

Leave the thermostat, wire harness, relay, and controls in place (not much
weight savings).

Remove the deck lid condenser, remove the bracket.

Remove the compressor and slider plate, leave the base plate in place.
Pita to remove the base plate and head support unless you are after
2 lbs.

Figure about 60 lbs in savings (there are other posts for your year),
about 10 gallons of gas.

Estimate 25 hours to do it all.

Keep everything, if not you, then next owner will want it.

[theclaw]

I've done the same thing for the sme reason. I just zip tied the hoses in the engine compartment so the wont flop around. Removed the rear condenser. The bracket was a pita but doable. Now the engine is out for a clutch job making the bracke an easier job. Might go after the hoses too but want to get the clutch done first.

Jeff

[krshome]

Thanks for the advice guys looks like I have another project.

[Reiver]

Hoses are not that difficult....cut off the ends and pull them thru.
If you pass the 'stuff' to a new owner and he wants the AC in he'd be an idiot to use the old 25 year old hoses so why save them.

[krshome]

Originally Posted by kuehl

Some things are worth removing:

Hoses & clamps, just put the screws back with a dab of black RTV.
Although the hoses are non barrier (if OE) and most replace them,
you could keep them and mark the ends so you know what goes
where, cap off the ends (there will be residual refrigerant oil a quite
a few of the 5).
Toss away the drier, keep the drier strap and ditto the screws.

Remove the front condenser and crash card, cap off the condenser.
Remove the front condenser blower motor assy.,
Block off the intake hole behind the front bumper, block of the outlet hole (make these block offs temporary; no permanent glue or new screw holes.

Pull out the evap box and brackets, cap off evap and TEVV,
block off the RH plastic trapezoid intake and the LH round intake.

Leave the thermostat, wire harness, relay, and controls in place (not much
weight savings).

Remove the deck lid condenser, remove the bracket.

Remove the compressor and slider plate, leave the base plate in place.
Pita to remove the base plate and head support unless you are after
2 lbs.

Figure about 60 lbs in savings (there are other posts for your year),
about 10 gallons of gas.

Estimate 25 hours to do it all.

Keep everything, if not you, then next owner will want it.

I take it from your profile picture you know you cooling systems. Will removing any of these items effect my heating system? Also will I still have the fresh air fan if I remove everything you said? Thanks for all the help

[krshome]

Ok does anyone have some trick on getting the hoses out of the car? I'm doing it with a jack and jack stands PITA! I did a search but no luck any links on removal of the a/c system would be appreciated. Thanks

[GH85Carrera]

It is just a dirty PITA job to get them out. Remove all the tie down brackets of course and pull. You might try squirting them with water to wash down some of the grit. Getting new hoses in is a pain as well but you will not be doing that.

It did help for me to have someone pushing one end while I pulled the other end.

[kuehl]

I assume you mean in the engine compartment is a pita:

Engine Deck Lid to Front Condenser:
After you disconnect the hose from the deck lid condenser (always use 2 wrenches so you don't twist the condenser fittings), the clamp on the LH hinge, the clamps under the car, go near the LH heater box, pull and twist on the hose an pull down (have safety glasses and a hat on; dirt), if it gets hung up then go in engine compartment and push down a bit, certain years it gets hung up on metal fuel line.

Evap to comp:
Ditto above, however you may need to twist the 90 degree fitting as it exits.

[cboosh]

be SURE to remove, or AT LEAST disconnect front condenser fan... this is what happened to mine that wasn't disconnected...

Fire...

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by krshome

I take it from your profile picture you know you cooling systems. Will removing any of these items effect my heating system? Also will I still have the fresh air fan if I remove everything you said? Thanks for all the help

Removing the ac system will not affect heat, your ac system (ventilation) is
a recycle system (no fresh air). However, there is a "manifold" on top of the left and right kicker fans that directs AC air into the left and right ducts in the dash; you could block off the feed tube from the front evap blower box outlet.

Outside fresh air comes through the top controls in the center of the dash or by opening the windows.

The fresh air system has its own blower.

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by cboosh

be SURE to remove, or AT LEAST disconnect front condenser fan... this is what happened to mine that wasn't disconnected...

Fire...

If your front condenser blower motor does have the "added" 7.5 amp fuse it can toast when the blower motor locks up.

[krshome]

Will the a/c fan inside the car in the center console still blow air if I remove all that you have said? I did get the rear deck lid condenser, compressor, slider plate and the base plate out of the car today. Only 3 hours so far.

[KFC911]

I've had my complete system boxed up in my garage for years...it's never going back in . I didn't cut the hose ends off, but in hindsight, that would make removing them a LOT easier. Keep everything though...the old hoses "could" be used to model replacements and reuse the ends (I think). I plugged all the screw holes with JB Weld (dried it matched my car color very well), and fabricated metal plates for the blower hole up front, and also for the hole in the engine tin where the bracket went through the engine tin.

[frankc]

Originally Posted by krshome

Will the a/c fan inside the car in the center console still blow air if I remove all that you have said?

If you remove the evaporator fan, no. I'm not sure how much an '88 system differs from the '77 & SC systems, but if you want to get an idea of how air flows through the ventilation system (with and without factory A/C), you can take a look at a thread I started on this topic:

Retrofitting non-A/C ventilation ducts

I would have to study the ventilation ducts on the '88s to see if anything changed significantly in this area.

[strikee]

Remove all the little clamps and pull the hoses out. There are lots of clamps hidden in wheel arches and stuff. I managed it with jack and stands. Took me a few evenings. PITA but worth it. You would be surprised how much they weigh. They are useless anyway as they are non barrier so get rid of them.
Ed