Newbie; What engine is this? And what should I do?
 

I was told it is a 2.7 I just figured out where to look for the engine # so that will come tomorrow. The car is a 1969 911.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L.../WP_001074.jpg

Right off the bat it has a few obvious issues like the hoses are squashed. And I am frantically trying to read up on these engines. How do I know if it has the heat reactors? (ie where do I look?)

The fuel filter has to be changed as there is pure white smoke on running. But the 'fuel' filter seems floppy/loose.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B.../WP_001132.jpg

Can be moved like this;
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d.../WP_001134.jpg

The beast!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r.../WP_001098.jpg

Search white smoke on startup, pretty normal if car has been sitting and will go away after a good long run to operating temp. The crinkled hoses won't affect anything until you want heat, and you'll probably backdate it anyway to look right in the car.
The thermal reactors are between the heads and the heat exchangers. Probably gone for an engine swap.
The fuel filter should have a bracket fabricated for it.
Buy Wayne's 101 project and engine rebuilding books. Worth the price of admission.
Welcome to the madness!... :)

it is a CIS motor of some sort; thermal reactors will be underneath if they are on it

get the #'s off of the engine to find out what it is

search on critical + safety + issues & be sure to change the brake hoses for new rubber & tiers

a '69 is valuable - several threads on them here

good luck

The front bumper looks like it's from a 1973.

Can I remove that whole system as I don't need 'heat'. Just don't want to remove it if it is part of the cooling system however.

I will go over the braking system, and the tires are AWFUL! The worst I've ever seen and yet they still hold air.

The white smoke never seems to stop, I suspect really bad gas and I don't want to do any damage so that's go to be resolved (dump the tank, change fuel filter). I will order the books, but since I'm in Canada, I have to wait!

One other thing. That looks to be the fuel pump sitting there in the engine compartment and in the bracket for the fuel filter. Not a good place for it, IMO. Porsche put the high pressure fuel pump under the chassis--early CIS it was below the rear passenger seat, later CIS it was on the passenger side of the front cross beam (under the skid plate.) The CIS system also require a return line to the tank and a swirl pot inside the tank so, it's likely your tank has been switch out. However, the return line was routed through the center tunnel and yours may be routed some other way. It would be good to find out so that line is not exposed to the outside, underneath the car.

Lots of interesting things going on in that engine compartment. For safety sake, you don't want any high pressure fuel lines/components flopping around in the engine compartment. You've got a loose fuel filter and fuel accumulator (I think I see it in the background, behind the filter) laying in the engine bay. Once you figure just what you have and how it was installed, secure everything before you drive your car.

On a positive note, I can see the oil line to the hydraulic chain tensioner in one of you photos. Also, the white smoke is probably oil rather than gas being burned off and, as mentioned, very common for a car sitting for a long period. It will take a bit of driving to get it all burned off and you will be hated by neighbors/other drivers as you do it (midnight runs are recommended.)

Thanks guys! You have very sharp eyes (and minds!) for this stuff :) I was shy to post, but I'm glad I did.

The Vin is 119111242 so I'm positive it's a 1969, 911 Targa. The engine has been swapped for sure, but I didn't know where to look for the engine number till I searched on the forum (behind the fan ish).

And yes the fuel filter and accumulator (I'm assuming the metal thing below it) are flopping around, the fuel pump is 'somewhat' secure. I will check the lines and figure what's going on and probably change them as the new ethanol seems to eat most gas lines after one year.

More pictures!
Wiring hell!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g.../WP_001087.jpg

Took off a few hoses and it's messy!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9.../WP_001089.jpg

Leaks great!!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1.../WP_001115.jpg

Some new hoses?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--.../WP_001120.jpg

On the outside of lower left hand side of the blower fan there is a flat vertical boss near the temperature transmitter. There will be a number stamped there. It is your engine serial number. It will help us tell us which motor you have.

Here is a picture of where it is:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377035296.jpg

Also, you need to keep some of the paper hoses, they blow air over the exhaust near the heads and prevent over heating of the motot.

Is this the same motor you have for sale?
What engine are you planning to install?

You'll want heat up in Edmonton in the spring and fall. Search heater backdate for the information on whatever motor you will have in there.
In the for sale ad you claim it is a '74.
The car should run great with the 2.7 if it is in decent shape. Why not run it and sort the car completely and know everything you need to know before swapping engines? There is a lot to learn, but all the information is here at this site.

I am going to pull my for sale ad. I was 'told' it's a 1974 CIS so I should confirm that before I do anything too rash.

I did a bunch of reading and the 2.7 scared me a little of the bat but I think it can all be fixed/taken care of.

If it is a '74 and has been taken care of you have one of the better years as I believe the thermal reactors were added later.
The 11 blade fan and Carreras oil tensioners indicate it has been taken care of.
Fix the fuel delivery system first and go from there.

HarryD, that is pretty funny. That photo you supplied.........well only if its a 914/6 motor!

Does appear to be but the appearance of the stamp is correct as is the location. Do reminder a 914/6 engine is a 2 liter flat 6.

HarryD,
No, the location is not correct. 914/6 motors have the serial # stamped on the horizontal surface by the thermostat and the early oil pressure sender. Look carefully at your photo(rotate it 90 degrees). Thats what it is showing, not the vertical surface to the right of the fan near the late oil pressure sender. Thats what gave me the chuckle.

I'm so confused!! :) Just kidding, I'll check both sides, but I think it should be on the right side of the fan when you are facing the fan.

Keep supplying us with all the information/pictures you can, even the "oh, by the way.." that you may think is unimportant. Just found out, for example, the engine is supposed to be a 74 and, if so, it did not come with the thermal reactors as timmy2 already mentioned plus, there is no evidence of them in your under engine shots.

Couple of things to note. Your pop off valve, inside the air intake, is oriented incorrectly and may affect its functionality. The hinge on the valve typically is facing the rear of the car, not to the side. Reason being, the air filter slopes dramatically downward above the valve lid and it's possible the edge of the lid (in your case) could hang up on the filter element should a backfire pop it fully open. I know valves with the hinge toward the front will do that, that's why most all valves are positioned so the hinge is rearward allowing the lid to fully open in the area where the filter is furthest from it. I've actually never seen a pop off valve positioned like yours.

Another thing, if you engine is a 74, it does not appear to have the original WUR (warm up regulator) and, consequently, the throttle position valve. That could mean it was replaced by a later WUR, or it could mean the engine is not a 74--your engine number posting will clear that up. Regardless, it will be important to give us the numbers off the top of the WUR when it comes time to get the engine set up properly.

One last thing, does your car have a hand lever on the floor next to the driver's seat? Does that lever activate the throttle cable (does the gas pedal move downward slightly when you pull up on the lever?) I ask because that would be consistent with a 73.5-75 CIS engine. If the lever is not there or doesn't affect the throttle cable, then you have a later CIS set up with components that are hidden in your pictures under the air box.

Engine : *6451389* -> There is cute little stars at the start and end like on a 356?! (It was on the right side of engine.)

ossiblue; I will! Great eyes on the 'pop off' valve! I thought a pop off valve was only on turbo engines so I ignored it in my searches. It is a little messed up on my car, there is some rubber 'glue' at the bottom of it, so it's been messed with.

And I don't recall if there is a lever, except the ebrake? I didn't notice or look. The steering wheel is um, leaking! It's melted or something and it's goopy. Gross I know :)

Not positive, but some searching says it's a 1975 911S engine? Anything significant or ??

Don't know if it is significant but it will help you when you are tuning and repairing.

Pry the pop off valve out carefully, remove all old adhesive and then seal it back in there with some strong slow set 2 part epoxy. I used JB weld and it has held up well.

So, what do you need to do to the car first? We can all help with directions and resources to get that car in great shape. Just need to know what you want to do. :)

Maybe make a list of everything you have noticed that needs attention and go from there.

A 1975 would have had thermal reactors but if you have an 11 blade fan and Carrera tensioners (like you can see in the pictures) then they may have been removed. They would be the heads and heat exchangers.

Have you done a compression check?
When you start the car, do you hear a pft-pft sound?
What is the oil consumption?

For your pop off valve, many use a 2 part epoxy, but I prefer to use RTV.

To my way of thinking, the RTV will hold for most backfires and if it is huge, the RTV will fail and still protect my box. Since the RTV is soft (even after setting), I can then push the pop off back in and have some hope of it sealing and being able to get home