Well, no compression test yet as I am getting limited time with her.

It starts, but it takes a few cranks. Then it runs 'fine', but after a few minutes it starts to POUR white smoke. There is a noise (piston slap?) at higher RPM's, around 3K. I can attempt to make a video of it!

It has lots of issues;
1) There is space for 2 batteries, but only one positive, one negative cable. Doesn't worry me much.
2) The engine I would like to get sorted out. I ordered books/parts from Pelican, so, waiting, and reading! I want to do an oil change (I think I have that figured out), fuel filter change (sort fuel lines), brakes (the rotors are rusty), there is pedal.
3) The steering wheel is MELTING. Well, melted? It's turning into mush.
4) Needs lots of cleaning.
5) Tires :)

I'm worried the engine might be toast (er, I mean more specifically, headstuds pulled) so I will plan on taking the valves covers off, doing the valves, and gently torquing the heads? Is that the plan to take? Plus the compression test.

I checked in my red book, and yes, you have a US '75 911S engine rated at 165hp. A fine engine if it's had all the proper work done to it already.

With battery outputs higher these days, you only need one battery. I like the $100 Bosch batteries they sell at Pep Boys...just ask for one for a '95 Miata. They slide right into one of your battery boxes.

Make a video of the engine noise...sometimes it can be a slack chain tensioner.

That wiring mess is likely due to wiring the '75 engine and CIS components to the '69 wiring harness. '69s have a weird 1-year only harness design.

The red painted parts of your wheels (that was THE style in the 80s) should be repainted satin black. A good time to tape them up and paint them is right before you put new tires on.

Best of luck with your new project!

Sounds like you are on the right track with lots to do.
3000 rpm isn't high for our cars, it is where they just start to run well. They don't like to be lugged at all. Break in RPM's for seating the rings is 4000 rpm!
Do your best to describe the noise and get a recording.
Could just be a valve adjustment is needed.
Don't re torque the head stud nuts, just very lightly try to see if they are all tight.
Sorting out your fuel delivery is very important.
Good luck and keep posting what you find.

A 1969 was originally designed to have two batteries wired in parallel. As noted above, one will be sufficient. so you should be fine.

As far as getting on the road, if it was me, my short list would be:

1-Pull the valve covers and check if the head studs are snug (just put a wrench on each one, go from the middle in a cris cross pattern). Hope fully a gentile tug will show them to be ok (i.e. not moving). Do a valve adjustment while you are in there.

2-Determine if the thermal reactors are gone.

3-Get your fuel system corrected. your car was designed to have the fuel pump located outside the car in a bracket below the rear seat behind the driver. Many relocate the pump directly behind the fuel tank in the front of the like they did in the later cars. The filter and accumulator is located in front of the CDI Box. If you can, find someone with an early car and ask to look how things are arranged.

Misdiagnosis!! The smoke is not coming out of the exhaust pipe. It's coming from inside the exhaust, there is oil inside it?? So much so that the sides of the exhaust look oil soaked?? I didn't think this was possible, maybe the oil is dripping out the sides.

The car starts on the first try and the 'noise' is from the exhaust rattling off the rear bumper. So, PHEW!!!

I will post a video and maybe it can be confirmed. The entire engine bay easily fills up with white smoke, so I have not really let it get 'warm'. I just moved it 10 feet up into the back.

VIDEOS! Sorry I don't know how to do the cool imbed, these are youtube links;

I took off some of the hoses;

2.7 Running - YouTube

Smokey! It got much worse after this; And it sounds really horrible. Please don't let my newbie diagnosis of the noise pre judge what you may think. Please let me know!

WP 20130916 195615Z - YouTube

Oil leak up top dripping onto the hot exhaust. I would check crankcase breather hose, thermostat and the oil sensor. Basically, eyeball around the engine case for where the oil is leaking out. Plenty of places on these engines that will leak. Some are easy fixes, some aren't. Get a flashlight and an inspection mirror and start searching.

where are you located at? I'll come by and pick it up for what u paid plus 5%. Problem solved.

I paid, um, $100,000. What a bargain yes?
You can wire me the $105,000 and I'll tell you where to pick it up.

SmileWavy

I took it for a rip around the block, it's a monster!! I'm hooked. I know, I shouldn't have, but I know the engine is healthy and I feel confident enough to tear into it and fix some of it's issues. Besides the neighbours love me already. :cool:

I feel like removing the top part of the engine (induction, fan) but I'm going to wait for my FSM/books/parts before I do that.

To get a look behind the air box, remove the air filter cover and you will see an inverted U which connects the fuel distributor (roundish thing with lines going the each injector) to the throttle body. Remove only the U. You should then be able to see the breather vent, thermostat and sender. You may need a mirror and be a bit of a coutortionist to do your inspection. Otherwise you will need to drop the engine.

This thread may be helpful: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/763147-help-finding-oil-leak-pictures-please.html

And this:

The are more, search this forum using the terms breather thermostat.

Would it be easier just to pull the engine and clean/fix the leaks that way? Or leave it in and fix them? For some reason, I'm itching to tear it apart. But if I do, I know it's going to take all winter to put it back together.

Depends what you want. I like to drive so a major disassembly would be something I avoid. Others like the work so it makes an ok winter project.

You will want to read this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/771739-seeking-advice-removing-cis-engine-car.html

You're in Edmonton so drive it for another month to shake it out for any other needs and then drop the drive train for the winter. Have it ready for spring and get a full season next year out of it. :)

That bumper looks so wrong... always hated the rubber horns. Someone has obviously done a lot of modifications on that car. You will probably be best off going through it very carefully to find other modifications that may affect safety/reliability.

what service or parts receipts did you get with the car?

I always go thru them and enter some of the info along with date & mileage into Excel when I buy a car - if the engine has never been documented as being worked on then a tear down could be interesting.

OTOH, the critical things are (in order) 1. brakes; 2. suspension (bushings always need to be replaced after 20 years); 3. engine

you also want to decide the direction to go with when building up a car - maybe MFI or carbs and a hotter cam, with pistons to match...

or maybe a different motor entirely

Well, I decided to take it apart a bit uptop. It's 'driveable' but I don't want to wreck anything. I did some reading and I'm pretty sure my 'triangle of death' needs sealing up.

The car came with NOTHING. Just, cars, key, regy :) (And a great price so I'm never going to complain).

Small things first;
The 'heater' tubes etc were just hanging there so I took them off. On this 'open port' there was a huuuuge rubber heater hose, so I shortened it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e.../WP_001189.jpg

I took off the coil bracket to remove the plastic piece behind it. And I found this wire broken off (looks like a ground?). It clips to the side of the dizzy.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b.../WP_001191.jpg

After removing the plastic piece, I used my technology wizard to have a look inside. YUP! LEAKY!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V.../WP_001196.jpg

Weight reduction?? :)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4.../WP_001201.jpg

Behind the non-op fan was this mess. I took this mostly for myself to see how and where the fuel is going. But if anyone can explain that would be great. One line comes in from the fuel tank to the fuel pump.. and then something somehwere somehow fuel filter tubes metal ... out back to tank?? :)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u.../WP_001204.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M.../WP_001206.jpg

I will do more reading and try to pull the CIS IN situ and fix the leaks.

Thank you for all your help and advice!!

A drivetrain drop ( engine and tranny mated) takes about 3-4 hours the first time if you are a decent wrench.
You will have access to everything and be able to gain a better look at where and what everything is.

I will flip a coin and let fate decide!

I found this link (I like step by step!) also;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/700716-removing-cis-engine-car-writeup.html

Is there a good step by step off hand to drop engine? :) (I will eventually find it I know, but if someone has it handy).... otoh, I should really wait for the manuals!!